8X Diode Murder fund

jayrob said:

Igor, that's the thing about the Key Chain 10280... (the smaller in diameter one - it is the same length as my CR2 Key Chain)

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I know, but i really like the tiny one too and want another one... :yh:

The 10280 battery is only 200mAh capacity.....

I measured, with my high efficiency (freak) GGW 6X blu-ray set at 183mA's, and putting out 268mW's! (405-G-1) - 288mA's battery current draw.

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Oh, sorry, i somehow thought it was 100mAh... :thinking:

In that case the draw i measured (300mA) was somewhat over 2C, since i think the actual capacity is somewhat less than stated, as usual. Not as much less as with the big "brandname" manufacturers on DX tho..

That's with a fresh charged 10280, and as you know, as the battery will start to discharge and drop in voltage, the current demand will increase, as the driver will need to boost more voltage...

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Exactly, and in that case the current draw really does end up at around 2C or a bit more..

jayrob said:

3.6/4.2 UltraFire CR2 rechargeable (the ones the I just got today), have a 'stated' capacity of 600mAh's.
That means that at a 2C discharge rate, you can safely draw 1200mA's from the battery for a thousand cycles or so. (probably)

Even if the capacity is not really 600mAh's as they claim, I'm sure we can draw at least an Amp from them safely.
A 10280 on the other hand, is only 200mAh's. That's the difference in hosts. The battery used...

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From the tests i've seen on different UltraFire and TrustFire (and similar DX "brandnames") batteries usually show the actual capacity being around 60% of the stated one..

Not sure if the manufacturers are simply used to lie, because if they don't, everyone else still will, and people will buy the higher rated ones, or perhaps they "cheat" by measuring the capacity at a lower current draw.

A thing to be kept in mind is, that battery capacity also CHANGES with current draw - the higher the draw, the lower the capacity! And with switching drivers, which draw more and more current as the voltage drops (they draw constant power from the battery), this problem is even worse...


The battery tests i've seen are usually done on special chargers which can also measure capacity by discharging a battery and measuring the time it took. But the problem is, these tests are done at a constant current.. So they don't apply to us.

With a constant power draw, i'd guess the battery capacity ends up at 50 or even just 40% of the stated one...

Hmm, a member here once did an experiment where he simulated a constant power draw from an AAA size Li-Ion. It was rated for 600mAh, i think he only got 200 or so, which would be 33%... I think the results were posted in Jayrob's 10280 Keychain tutorial thread...



Otherwise, i think these Li-Ions are supposed to last 300-500 cycles, before they drop in capacity so much, they become useless.. With our kind of abuse it's even less.


But i'd still like to try putting an 8x into the 10280 Keychain, IF the LOC test shows it's doable.

I'll have to get more 10280's tho... I only have four, barelly enough for the two Keychains that need them, especially since one already "died".. While it does charge to full voltage, it sags the moment i put it into the laser, to a level, where the laser can only produce spontaneous emissions...

IgorT said:

Hey!

So is it your host that just arrived then (you H.G.E.)? :angel:




Working on that.

The lens is in an express multipack to California, so Jay will have it in a few days. While there is a whole list of things i want him to do for me, i asked for the prototype lens-nut mount to be made first, and i'll pay for priority shipping back to me, so i can start CNC lens nut production sooner. The shop i use makes a batch in a week or less. :yh:

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I hope it was my host that arrived, lol... It was sent directly from Ehgemus so I would imagen that H.G.E are his initials? Glad to hear the lense is coming along aswell, let me know when you would like payment for that and I will sent it over to you. very excited about the laser now, cant wait...:beer:

Makes sense.. EHGmus host, H.G.E. initials..

Besides, i'm not expecting any other of this kind.. Only Bryce sent me one before yours came..


I just tried to match them with modules, but the host's drillouts are kinda big. Barelly managed to find modules that were a tight fit. Looks like i'll have to use Sure modules for this host, with AixiZ there would be gaps...

I dont have a specific setup just regular use.. laser was about 5-6 inches from the detector.

I figured out why it climbed. The meter was not in a stable "zero'd" , as i had just turned it on , once it zero'd it still needed to acclimate.

Well the laser survived.

IgorT said:

I just tried to match them with modules, but the host's drillouts are kinda big. Barelly managed to find modules that were a tight fit. Looks like i'll have to use Sure modules for this host, with AixiZ there would be gaps...

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thats ok, as long as the fit is good... Will the Sure module take the same lense as the Aixiz module?

In case your planning on using one of my lens modifications, just let me know if it is a Sure module or AixiZ...

I can machine the nut to fit a Sure module.

I appreciate the offer Jayrob, but I have agreed on using one of IgorT's lenses...:beer:

Just checking...

IgorT said:

But they don't want to do it for less than 50pcs... :undecided:

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You should be able to get 50 orders. Let us know how much the GB price will be, I can probably afford two.

Did you find an aixiz module that fit mine ok?

How's the F03 murdering going?

jayrob said:

In case your planning on using one of my lens modifications, just let me know if it is a Sure module or AixiZ...

I can machine the nut to fit a Sure module.

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Don't worry, Jay, if i am forced to use a Sure module in one of the builds, i'll inform the buyer of this, just for this reason...


Oh, once you're working on it, please check if my "medium" fits Sure's without bottom thread removal. In a plastic lens-nut it does..

The short-FL and the "Nichia" lens will both require this modification by default tho... I sent them to you cos they were expensive and it would be a shame if i was unable to use them. And it's better to have a universal fit..



P.S. I used the label printer to mark the baggies, so you know which is which.. I even used it to mark the other contents, and explain what i want done with them... I guess i can't stop playing with it.. :yabbem:

bryce007 said:

You should be able to get 50 orders. Let us know how much the GB price will be, I can probably afford two.

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The lenses cost $48 one by one. Last time, the first price break they gave me was at 250pcs... :cryyy:

I'll try again and ask for an offer for 50, but if i don't get a discount, they will cost same as other lenses on the forum, with the CNC lens nut cost on top...

bryce007 said:

Did you find an aixiz module that fit mine ok?

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Not really. Unless you want a gap around it! I usually try to find modules which are a press fit. But i measured the hole, one is just under 12mm, the other slightly over 12mm! I have never seen a module above 11.98mm, and that was a one in 200 mutant! The majority are 11.92-11.94mm, but since almost everyone who makes heatsinks makes larger holes, so they would fit all modules, and i always try to find the perfect tight match, i got stuck with a bunch of 11.90-11.92mm AixiZ modules....

If i want them to even get slightly stuck in that host, i have to use the bottom part. But the bottom part is not even with the head, it stands off on one side, which makes it stuck in too big holes, but also means tight matching is impossible (it can only be done with heads alone)...

I guess i'll put a lot of thermal paste in, so it fills up the small gap..

But don't worry, i'll test to make sure the thermal transfer is good, and i did select the two fattest Sure's i could find, to ensure as tight a fit as possible.

The ehgemus host is a good one, capable of decent heatsinking, but since they are made on CNC's, they have to be made to fit ALL modules, which always means a 12mm hole and gaps...

bryce007 said:

How's the F03 murdering going?

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Bryce, i haven't slept for three nights in a row, i slept a few hours yesterday morning and this morning after shipping off the latest work...

I feel like it's evening now, while the majority of my country starts waking up in an hour and a half..


So it's not going. Haven't had time to do much else but work.

IgorT said:

Don't worry, Jay, if i am forced to use a Sure module in one of the builds, i'll inform the buyer of this, just for this reason...


Oh, once you're working on it, please check if my "medium" fits Sure's without bottom thread removal. In a plastic lens-nut it does..

The short-FL and the "Nichia" lens will both require this modification by default tho... I sent them to you cos they were expensive and it would be a shame if i was unable to use them. And it's better to have a universal fit..

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I could fit the lens it a position inside the AixiZ brass nut, so that it will get focus in a Sure module without having to modify the threads, but then the AixiZ nut will stick out the front of the module more than is desirable... (IMO)

The thing is, I did my 405-G-1 modification so that the nut would screw almost all the way into the module so that the gap between the AixiZ focus ring and the front of the module would be 'minimal'.

Now with a short focus lens like my 405-G-1, or the Meredith, this was a 'must do'.

But if your medium lens is a longer focal length, it will not be set as deep into the lens nut. But if we wanted the gap between the focus ring and the module to be 'minimal', then the nut would still have to thread all the way into the module. (and I would adjust the position of the lens inside the nut) So that means I would have to modify the threads for it to fit a Sure module as you have seen in my pictures in my lens thread.

Either that, or settle for a larger gap between the focus ring and module.

The other thing that is possible to do, is to shorten the nut. I suppose this can be done if you want. That would solve the Sure module fit too. But it is easier to shave the threads a little like I do with my 405-G-1 'Sure mod', than it would be to shorten the module...

Might be a good idea to shorten the module for your prototype. That way when you get them made at your CNC shop, you will have a universal fit length. (but the threads are still an issue - see below)

P.S. One other thing that I have to do on the Sure mod, besides machining some of the threads down, is that I also have to run the nut through my 9mm X .5 die to clean the threads some. For some reason, the nut won't screw all the way into a Sure module unless I also do this. The threads on the inside of the Sure module are not as 'clean' as the AixiZ module threads. (of course this would make it fit a little 'looser' in the AixiZ module)

P.P.S. I would also recommend, that I fit the lens position (gap between the focus ring and module at normal focus), for a 'flush' pressed diode. This is what I do for my mods. The reason for this, is that many people still press their diodes 'flush'. And if I fit it for a fully pressed in diode, then some people will not be able to get focus. But fitting it for a 'flush pressed' diode means that everybody will get focus. Only that the ones who press their diodes past the 'flush point', will just have a little larger gap between the focus ring and the module...

IgorT said:

Bryce, i haven't slept for three nights in a row, i slept a few hours yesterday morning and this morning after shipping off the latest work...

I feel like it's evening now, while the majority of my country starts waking up in an hour and a half..


So it's not going. Haven't had time to do much else but work.

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Yea forget the F03, sleeping is much more important. I don't know how you can function on that little sleep. I usually only do that the night before a test.

Does the sure module have the same threads as the aixiz? I'll probably be using an aixiz 405 glass for that GGW

jayrob said:

I could fit the lens in a position inside the AixiZ brass nut, so that it will get focus in a Sure module without having to modify the threads, but then the AixiZ nut will stick out the front of the module more than is desirable... (IMO)

Might be a good idea to shorten the module for your prototype. That way when you get them made at your CNC shop, you will have a universal fit length. (but the threads are still an issue - see below)

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I actually wanted to ask you to shorten it, yes.. Altho for the reason that it would not stick out too far... :crackup:

I forgot that you could simply mount it higher in the lens nut... :yabbem:


But since you won't be able to use the top threaded ring to tighten down the spacer, since you'll have to machine it to 7mm and the threads will be gone, there is no reason to keep it full length anyway...

I mean, if everyone had AixiZ modules, larger thread area contacting the module would provide more friction and less wobble, but then there would have to be two versions, which is not really an option with CNC lens nuts..


So i'd like it shortened please.. It'll have to be longer than plastic ones, since the plastic ones barelly have room for a thin focusing ring on them, but just long enough to accomodate the normal focusing ring, and allow the lens deep enough.


For the other two, where the FL is almost as short as with yours on one and a bit shorter on the other, just do it the usual way... And give them a Sure module thread removal, just in case i have to put them into one.

jayrob said:

P.P.S. I would also recommend, that I fit the lens position (gap between the focus ring and module at normal focus), for a 'flush' pressed diode. This is what I do for my mods. The reason for this, is that many people still press their diodes 'flush'. And if I fit it for a fully pressed in diode, then some people will not be able to get focus. But fitting it for a 'flush pressed' diode means that everybody will get focus. Only that the ones who press their diodes past the 'flush point', will just have a little larger gap between the focus ring and the module...

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I see what you mean.. Yes, the focusing ring has to allow the lens nut going in too deep in case there are variations in modules, or how people press their diodes...

I always press them in fully, after i noticed that it's even possible and then found a good diode insertion tool... I guess most people still use the AixiZ back method...


Good thinking, this has to be taken into account, yes..

Hmm, it's possible the "medium" the way it is mounted at this moment, would not go into parallel focus with diodes not pressed fully, if the focusing ring is on it....

Hey Igor, if you could let me know the exact focal length of your medium lens, it would help me in my initial 'test mounting' position...

:thanks:

jayrob said:

Hey Igor, if you could let me know the exact focal length of your medium lens, it would help me in my initial 'test mounting' position...

:thanks:

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Didn't i once send you drawings and full specs of all three written in the drawings?

If not, i'll search for them and send now...