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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

445 build help

DTR

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Also the only reason you would be using the diode for a negative path is if the host does not have a ground wire already in it and you cant get one soldered in there easily. Otherwise just run the negative wire from your host to the driver negative input.:beer:
 





mmykle

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Ah, makes sense now, thanks again Daguin.

Yea I think that was confusing me as well, DTR (does your name stand for anything?). Most of my builds have an easy way to get both leads soldered on somehow so I might not have to mess with the case pin at all.
 
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By the way i ended up fixing it. All it was, was the top of the host that meets with the HS was still anodized.... i had scratched it off before but i guess not enough. Anyway my laser is now running. Here is my first LPM test of it (it was done with a regular 405 aixiz lens not a g-1)

 
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Awesome glad you got it working.
You may want to check the one i am sending you as well. I recall packaging up a black one recently that was anodized on the threads of the tailcap... don't remember who it was. It's part of building them though, eventually you'll get to where your checking for these things without even knowing it.

Your host and 5 dollar coins went out on monday btw.
 
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Awesome glad you got it working.
You may want to check the one i am sending you as well. I recall packaging up a black one recently that was anodized on the threads of the tailcap... don't remember who it was. It's part of building them though, eventually you'll get to where your checking for these things without even knowing it.

Your host and 5 dollar coins went out on monday btw.

Yep it was me who got another black one. I did check it at first and scratched of the anodized parts but i guess i just didn't do quite enough because after a second go at it, it fixed the problem. lol. Turns out i was pulling out my hair for no reason.

And thanks for the update. Im waiting on those coins so i can do a hotlights build with one too. ;)
 
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With a MICROFLEX (using the case as the negative path), you can wire it either way because the negative path on the driver is continuous in the driver.

With the MICROBOOST you must use the case pin to negative driver input wire technique to use the case as the negative path. The negative path in the microboost is NOT continuous. If you bridge the case pin to the negative pin, when using the case as the negative path, you effectively bypass the driver (giving the diode a direct connection to the battery).

@ the OP -- Check to make sure that you have good electrical connection at all contact points. The possibility of an anodized contact point may be it. Also, you may have a short or a break somewhere that only manifests itself when it is assembled. Finally, make sure that you are placing the battery in the correct direction and that it is actually making contact at both ends.

Peace,
dave

This is a very clear way of putting it. There are a lot of post on the subject of the driver setup compared to the diode in use. I'v found that many times it can be confusing where the mistake was made. ;)
The anodizing is a good point for sure...the blue host that Mohrenberg and Radiant Electronics offer...http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/mohrenbergs-laser-emporium-58611.html..is anodized all around and I found that I had to run the Negative path off the driver to a non-anodized part of the host as I could not use the heat-sink as the path.

Congrats on the build success! Always feels good to finally get that light coming out the end.
 




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