Making your AixiZ driver work. The solution!

It's actually a nice little driver, but no one has ever posted that they can get it to work. I found discrepancies and contacted Chuck. I just got a new regulated power supply(review later on this too!) and was able to find out why they don't work and limits of the driver while getting it to work.
This is one of those situations where the manufacturer sends out generic data sheets and pics, changes have been made, and they do not reflect it.

Ok, here is the scoop. The picture on the left is the original and is wrong. I corrected part of it for Chuck before my power supply showed up. I did email Chuck to see if he wants me to fix the whole picture. Its kinda useless the way it is even after I fixed part of it. I posted the original so you could see the info he received. The text portion even conflicts it. I'm pretty sure he'll want it all corrected and I'll post it then.
The instructions are easy to follow and actually simple.

The 5R6 resistors(5.6ohm) output a max of 430ma. They do not ship with 10ohm resistors as the picture states while pointing to the 5.6ohm ones. 5ohm resistors (5R0) would let it max at 500ma. At 430ma, the output (DA QH) is hot and should have a heat sink.
10ohm resistors should set it to put out 250ma max. and should require no heat sink.
The image shows TTL 0 VDC = Beam On, 5 VDC = Beam off. This is a normal setup, but not with this driver. The connection points are correct.
If TTL = 0 VDC, it won't power a diode from either LD " - ". Put 2-6v on TTL " + " and it puts out 430ma, fully adjustable. You can use either LD " - ". Mine ran 5 minutes with 8.4v Vcc in with still just one diode from Vcc to TTL+ and no problems. I did heat sink the output.
I tested it from 3VDC up to 8.4VDC(2 Li-Ion batteries) as the input voltage.
The right image is the final correct one reflecting the "off & on" state.

Now to solve the TTL problem simply. Just jumping the TTL+ to Vcc + does not work. To fix this all that is needed is to put a diode(1N4xxx or any small power diode) from Vcc to TTL+ with the cathode towards the TTL+.
It then has theses outputs. Fully adjustable at all max values shown with a max current 430ma. The test load was set for a red diode. (4 diodes and a 1ohm 10watt resistor)

Vcc---------Voltage Out () Max Output (1mv = 1ma)
3VDC----------2.9VDC-----------27ma
3.5VDC--------3.1VDC-----------76ma
4.0VDC--------3.3VDC----------144ma
4.5VDC--------3.5VDC----------226ma
5.0VDC--------3.6VDC----------310ma
5.5VDC--------3.6VDC----------400ma
6.0VDC--------3.75VDC---------430ma

Any input voltage tested above 6VDC up to 8.4VDC is the same as 6.0VDC ma readings(430ma). I have no idea if they can take 8.4VDC for a long time, but mine was going for approximately 3min. with no heat sink and the output component(DA QH) was hot.

Now there is an inexpensive driver for reds, IR's and even greens since they use an IR diode!

Disclaimer:
I have no affiliation with AixiZ at all. I purchased 2 of these from ebay for $8 shipped, I hate things that don't work and don't appear to be broken!

Hope you enjoyed the post!

Edit: The final working photo is the one on the right.

Right on,I also had the same problem trying to get them to work,thought maybe they were defective or I wasn't hooking them up right.
I also was confused by the wrong docs. and lousy picture. They obviously don't use these or even verify if they work or not.

Thanks for setting it straight,now I'll try again,
Mike

Vaporizer;

Good job on correcting the photo.

Since the #358 is just a voltage comparator, I would think that the transistor would be the component getting hot.

I used a thin copper strip on my similar green laser regulator transistor collector
.

LarryDFW

Thanks Larry.
I'm getting ready to host one with AixiZ driver and and LPC-815 set to the max 430ma. I'm gonng to use 2 Li-ions so its gonna see 8.4v for a while. That should be a good test for the upper limit.
I'll check that agn to be sure. Its really hard to say what the long term actual operating voltage is at the moment. I posted the results of the bench test and sent the data to Chuck. He now has the right data image on his ads.
I didn't give him an operating range low & high. Finding the minimum isn't hard after lookin the circuit over...lol
There is another ebay vendor that sells the same driver with the exact original image. Seems thats all the manufacturer provided. Chinese are bad abt changing things and using generic instructions for a wide range of similar units. The diode was by far the easiest solution for the TTL+. You could use a 78L05 to feed TTL+ but it seems an overkill to me. The PCB is common positive regulating the negative so it would work.
I have some Northbridge & Southbridge heats sinks I can cut and also some from boscoj from the forum that should work well.
http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/sunon-20mm-5v-fans-small-heatsinks-7mm-peltiers-55211.html
Yea, a thin piece of copper or aluminum sheet or shim stock should be enough.:tinfoil: A sanded piece of a soda can?

Edit: A quick check shows the operating range of the LM358 as 3-32v so I doubt it's the heat culprit. I need to go to bed more often...lol :tired:
Now off to find who has the best price on Arctic Thermal Adhesive!

As an after thought, since I've had some sleep now, I might be better going with 2 CR123 3v batteries. Since the TTL is being tapped off the source 2 - 3.6v max charged will be 8.4v initially with a single diode drop. Pretty high for TTL.
I need to recheck the ma @ 3.6-4.2v. If I can get the full ma with a single cell the TTL will be fine.

Good job-- I am sure AixiZ appreciates this and me too. I was about to get 6 of them and would have had a problems--thanks

rep coming your way

hk

Nice work Vaporizer....:gj:
I have 2 of those on the way to settle this as well and you saved
me a bunch of testing...

Jerry

Thanks guys, I do appreciate it.
Post #1 is now updated. I decided to do the other driver totally awake since I made the heat mistake. I may have made others so a redo when telling someone this will work was warranted. Bad data is worthless. I added the mv/ma reading to it also. All of the readings are the max at the stated voltage and ma's can be adjusted lower if needed. This seemed like a good idea in a case if you were building a 100ma red. A single Li-ion dialed down a little will work well. The readings also indicate if it fills the diodes voltage needs for the ma range you want. To me, this is helpful in planning your build.

Not having any Arctic Thermal Adhesive, I used regular cpu Zerotherm grease and stuck one of boscoj's heat sinks on it during bench testing. It did not drift more than 3ma after 5 minutes @ 8.4v. on a regulated bench psu. Ok, I'm going the max now for sure on my LPC-815.

I also did some searching on other LM358 drivers. A couple look very similar. Laser Parts Plus had an O Like that is identical in the one view except for the semi conductors numbers. Resistors are exactly identical in value except the current limiters are 10 ohm. Not to be surprized, the data specs are different and they no longer stock it.
http://www.*****************.com/shop/laser-diode-drivers/19-o-like-red-ir-laser-diode-driver.html

Now I need to find a couple 10 ohm SMD resistors to see which way it actually goes in range! Geesh.........maybe an O like data sheet will be clearer.
Makes you wonder why LPS quit selling them huh? lol

Well, swapped out the 5R6(5.6 ohm) resistors for 10 ohm ones and ran the same test.
Pretty much what was expected and confirms it as a dual range driver.

10 ohm resistors(Low Range):
Vcc---------Voltage Out () Max Output (1mv = 1ma)
3.0VDC---------2.88VDC--------22ma
3.5VDC---------3.12VDC--------54ma
4.0VDC---------3.17VDC--------79ma
4.5VDC---------3.24VDC-------150ma
5.0VDC---------3.39VDC-------222ma
5.5VDC---------3.39VDC-------243ma
6.0VDC---------3.40VDC-------243ma

Just to see the potential of this driver I changed the resistors to 5 ohms and @ 6v it's output was 485ma. Just below the 500ma expected.

The Torture Test! :eg:
Next they were changed to 1.8 ohms! With Vcc @ 7v it cranked out 691ma @ 4.27VDC ! Ok, enough of that....

Both drivers are alive and well. Now it's time to look at ID'ing & changing the output component. :thinking:
The only reason I stopped the test is due to the pkg size vs heat exchange(SOT-89) "drifting". Removing the trace pads for LD- opens up the end of the board for possibly a TO-252 "D" pkg and LD- can be picked up at R9 or R10 at the end of the board.
More later.

Well... i didn't understand it very well... I have 4 of them and they just don't light my diodes... I connected power input to Power "-" and "+" on the pic, left the TTL "+" unused. Used only one of the "-" outputs. Didn't work... what's the easiest way to make them work? I also tried the thing with the diode from power + to TTL+ but it didnt ork aswell... Do i need to bridge the both "-" outputs?

Did you put the diode in backwards? It has to have +vdc on the TTL or it will not work.

Vap------very sorry I have not sent you the items Chuck gave me for you- swamped ATM - but I meet with him today and will just get more to send- thanks for all the big work you have put into making a tiny driver work better- Len

Vaporizer You have done the members of LPF a tremendous service.

THANK YOU!!

+ Rep to You.

LOL wow....finally and thank you very much!
Your right there hasn't been any real post on how to make these things work, and I have about 10 sitting in my kit ready to go!
:beer::thanks:

Well, i've put the positive input on TTL+ and it didn't work! What do i wire on VCC?? Do i need to jump VCC and TTL+ with a diode?

Awesome work Vap!!!

I've seen several members, including myself, have trouble getting these to work. Thank you for the work you've done. It will help a lot of members!!!

+1.