That would be correct. You'll notice the power drop off when your batteries go below 6v.

Ok, let me see if I can help a little. I didn't get notified there was a question by email. Sorry.

If you plan on using this driver you have to have power to TTL. No power to TTL and it will not turn on. Consider it an electronic on/off switch. You can use a regular switch, but this one will need to be on. That's why I said it's kinda backwards to industry standard for a laser driver like we use. It's normal TTL characteristics, but if it were true TTL the 6+ vdc should have killed it.

All the readings are with the pot at max. So, you can adjust below the reading for the posted voltages.
A true TTL (at one time) was 5v +/- .25v. That isn't true with this driver.
That is the very reason a computer power supply has such a closely regulated 5vdc. Some parts are CMOS and can operate from 3-18vdc. there semi conductors have ranges depending on the part, material and support components.

As far as max voltage....I still cannot say. Mine took 8.4v and lived. Taking .7vcd off that as I described using a diode(forward voltage drop) for the "TTL" still puts 7.7vdc on the "TTL" and in reality a true TTL would have fried. All the drivers seem to have diff part codes so I can't identify what they actually are. NPN, PNP, FET.......???????

No company posts actual schematics, or at least very few. I took it way past the posted limits to test it. Seemed reasonable to stop at 2 cells. It may very well handle more input voltage, but you'll need to keep some things heat sinked or it will die as the extra voltage will be converted to heat at some point. It, IMHO, acts a lot like a complex linear type driver. It's even using a surface mount LM358.

I hope this helps answer your questions.

Would it be too simplistic to say the this driver probably has similar use cases (as far as handheld pointers go) as a Groove V2 Driver?

Vaporizer I wasn't trying to take over your thread. I was only trying to help out. I really do appreciate all of your hard work on these drivers.

Yes it's like a groove v2

No problem at all CH.
All I did was try to define it a little better for more understanding.

@ rhd,
If you look at post #9 I stated "@ 7v it cranked out 691ma @ 4.27VDC". Ok, looking at the table I posted of voltages and currents, this has somewhat of a voltage limiting on the output. Raising the input may kill it and will create heat to deal with. But, as you can see the output voltage doesn't raise but very little.

All in all ....it's a $4 driver that works well on reds. Should work on IR(green) too if you so desired. Look at the diode requirements and if its going to take more voltage than what I have on the table, use a different driver. I think the table shows this drivers features. If you put 12v in, I seriously doubt if more than 5v will be on the output.

My main goal was to get it to work and explain what it took to do so. Well, it went a little deeper as it is a dual range driver and works far beyond the specs AxiZ is provided by the manufacturers.

Just a NOTE: The TTL connection id NOT an ON/OFF switch, it is a Modulation input. With the TTL floating or tied to ground, the driver still supplies a small amount of current to the LD +&- pads. I got a couple of these drivers from a place called LaserPartsSurplus.com. I tied a hefty red LED across the LD +&- pads and applied 3 Vdc from a bench supply. The LED glowed dimly. I shorted TTL to Vcc and the LED fired up at a respectable brightness. Did the samething at 4.5 Vdc, got the same results. pulled power and swapped the LED with a 405nM low current LD (yeah, I know, wrong driver, wrong voltage, ect.) re-applied power, TTL open, no lase. Tie TTL to Vcc and it lsaes! Switched up to 6Vdc supply and same results. Runs about 40 seconds before getting warm (in an Aixiz with a plastic lense). Tieing TTL to Vcc at 6Vdc doesn't sound like a good idea to me, but it works and driver and LD still in good shape. I suppose that if you wanted to use your LASER as a signal transmitter, you would apply your signal intelligence, at TTL levels, to TTL. Design you own reciever (photo pin, light sensitive photo transistor,?? beyond me for now).

If your using a single li-ion cant you just jump the TTL to the + terminal? Wont that voltage fall in the correct range?

Hey Helios -

Since it's not a boost driver, wouldn't you run into the problem of not actually being able to power anything with it on one li-ion? I guess you could maybe get away with a Red or IR ?

I only need 100mA and its for a 40mW 635nm. It wouldnt have long runtimes before the voltage dropped two low but I hardly ever run a laser for more than a few minutes.

Gotcha - I'm presuming 635s and normal reds share a similar voltage requirement?

Do you have this driver already? I've got a few here, and I'd be happy to send one off to you to play around with.

Unfortunately I do have 2 of them. I think they are more of a pain than their savings is worth. Id gladly trade both of them along with $12 for a rkcstr driver.

I hear you -
In the realm of non boost drivers, there are so many options that I just don't see the benefit of these

So can this possibly power an LPC from one li-ion?

Ok, I think many are missing the main point of the thread. To many ppl had these and they didn't work. So, I found out why and posted the way they did work, the range , including a table of what to expect. Remember, I used a diode from Vcc to the "TTL" so it came "on" @ 3v - .7v(diode drop) = 2.3vdc to "TTL". It may turn "on" lower than 2.3vdc.

Vcc---------Voltage Out () Max Output (1mv = 1ma)
3VDC----------2.9VDC-----------27ma
3.5VDC--------3.1VDC-----------76ma
4.0VDC--------3.3VDC----------144ma
4.5VDC--------3.5VDC----------226ma
5.0VDC--------3.6VDC----------310ma
5.5VDC--------3.6VDC----------400ma
6.0VDC--------3.75VDC---------430ma

Is it a true TTL? No. If it were it would not turn "on" till 4.75vdc and any voltage over 5.25 vdc to the "TTL" should kill it. It doesn't. So, it appears to be driving the Base of a transistor or FET to turn it on and the output increases as the voltage increases.
Since I had Vcc always "dioded" to the "TTL" it may vary by just varying the voltage to "TTL" and having a max of 6vdc on Vcc. On the other hand, you may need to vary Vcc and "TTL" just keeps it on. Surely you can check this for yourself. I had it up to 8.4vdc on Vcc with a diode to the "TTL" so subtract .7vdc and that was putting 7.7vdc to the "TTL" and it did not die, but the output current was maxing at 6vdc. Above that its just converting the rest to heat on the output chip. It can be heat sinked with Arctic Thermal adhesive. Is it a modulated input? Well, I guess you could call it that if you have the pot set to max. Look at the table......3v gives you 27ma out and 6v gives you 430ma. So it will vary with diff voltage inputs.

The voltage out limits it to Reds, IR or a Green(actually IR) as this is abt all that will work at the listed output voltages.

I don't see where it that tough to look up the specs of the diode you are using, compare that to the table, and see if this driver will work for you needs. You can always dial the pot down to limit the max output ma for the input voltage you are using.

Hopefully this more clearly explains questions that have been asked.
It is what it is...a low cost driver for those not wanting to build one with a max of abt 430ma output. It is not a boost driver. You might compare it to a LM317 driver, but you'll need more parts than this costs. The LM317 could have a higher output if you needed it. Running multiple LD's ? What if one failed? Poof go the rest.

My apologies for adding to resurrecting the thread, but questions seem to keep coming up.

Yeah, sorry for necroing, it's a useful thread anyway and people should see it. But yes - I see it won't be able to drive a red LD. All the same, I got some anyway so I can have some easy drivers....

Why can't it drive a red? An LPC-815 @ 3.35v , 450ma will put out 275mw.
Check the diode spec charts on the forum.

Because the max out at 3.3V is 145mA =p

Oh. I meant with a single li-ion.

Thanks for all the help on these- looking like a great driver for lpc-815s.

worthy of a +2

Wolfman29 You can Use it for a LOC with a single Li-Ion I've done it a few times with both 18650s & 10440s. You can use it for the IR pump on a lower powered greenie even.

I know this is an old resurrected thread and I have read it twice and am having a hard time following it (maybe I'm too tired), but from what I think I have gathered is that this would be perfect for a LPC-815 running off 2 rechargeable Lithiums.

Here's where I don't quite get it and a yes/no, this is how you do it answer:

If I run a jumper from TTL to Vcc I will be able to power my LPC-815 ?

annnnnnd...

If I do the same thing with a single Li-ion battery and not mess with the pot, it will power the $9 685nm 35mW diode ?

That works for me.
Possibly, but not messing with the pot means not knowing how many mA you are supplying to the diode.
A bad idea.

Is it just me, or is there an inversely proportional relationship between wavelength of the diode and the Vf of the diode?

Like 2V for 808, 2.8V for 650 or whatever, 4.2 for 445, and 5.2 for 405? Coincidence?

What I meant by that was that if it remains maxed, then it will only reach the max that can be reached with the given voltage. I do appreciate the warning though !

the 80-500ma versions are perfect for phr-805t. Im running it @6V with 2 cr123 3V. tweeked the pot just a bit to get it to light, actually the pressure from the light screwdriver was enough to add +~10ma and the diode lit then i tightened it only slightly and i am getting a constant burning 405 beam, it produced a fair amount of heat, but with a little sinking its all good.