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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

FREE DIY open source BOOST driver!!! Tested & working!!

Blord

Blord

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I solder it manually. It looks crooked but it worked fine. :)
That driver is already replaced. I accidentally powered it with 8V and blow up the driver.

I have now two perfect soldered drivers. The hottest component, LM3410 is specially sinked with copper plates for optimal heat transfer. It works like the IHS on the Intel CPU's.
The heat isn't dumped directly into the silicon glue but goes through metal. And the copper plate has direct contact with the aluminium pill. It is all covered up with silicon glue. Special cooling makes the driver more efficient. Maybe that is why this output is possible.

I have tested it with 4 diodes and it gives 2137mA. I was using too high Vf on my testload.
Thanks for helping me out.

LM340_heatsink.jpg
 
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Kizdawg

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That was probably my problem. I never did get my dual set up working right. This is incentive to try again.
 
lasersbee

lasersbee

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Blord said:
I have now two perfect soldered drivers. The hottest component, LM3410 is specially sinked with copper plates for optimal heat transfer. It works like the IHS on the Intel CPU's.
The heat isn't dumped directly into the silicon glue but goes through metal. And the copper plate has direct contact with the aluminium pill. It is all covered up with silicon glue. Special cooling makes the driver more efficient. Maybe that is why this output is possible.
Click to expand...

BTW...Silicone glue/caulking is a bad conductor of heat...
and should never be used on PCBs or electronic circuits.


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics
 
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benmwv

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Glad you got it working ;) Is this going to be a monster 9mm 445 build?
 
Kizdawg

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Just a note.. I have 2 9mm 445's and I can barely get them over 2W with a 1800 and 1950ma drivers I also have 2 H1600's which both go over 2.5W on the same current. So I am interested to see what this will do at 2100ma.. So far my best output diodes for 445 are the H1600's.
 
rhd

rhd

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Kizdawg said:
Just a note.. I have 2 9mm 445's and I can barely get them over 2W with a 1800 and 1950ma drivers I also have 2 H1600's which both go over 2.5W on the same current. So I am interested to see what this will do at 2100ma.. So far my best output diodes for 445 are the H1600's.
Click to expand...

Probably not much. In fact, pushing less efficient diodes higher, is the WRONG way to go about things.

If a diode is less efficient, it's silly to try pushing the current higher, in an effort to "get more out of it". Less efficient means more heat, and less return for your inputs. So don't try to mitigate your bad luck by feeding in more current, because that diode is less likely to be able to take it. Push your efficient diodes, nurture your weak ones.
 
DTR

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If he cant get two of the 9mm diodes over 2W it is probably not an efficiency problem. They do have a higher forward voltage than the M/H series diodes. Kizdawg you sure the driver is actually supplying that much current when the 9mm diode is connected with it's higher forward voltage? Or that the batteries you are using can supply enough current to boost to 5V+ @ 1.8A+.
 
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Kizdawg

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That's basically what I said. I was told 1800ma for a decent life and at that current my h1600 is over 2.5W the 9mm is arround 2 -2.1W. That MAY just be my luck but that's the way the diodes stack here. I didnt think I was pushing my luck.

And probably not DTR I didnt realize that they took more vf than the others if that is the case then my current would actually have be running lower on an actual diode than I expected. I have only tested current on a test load never an actual diode so I cant say for sure the test load would have given the same results regardless.

Also I dont have these things running on the same drivers the 2.5W is on a linear the 9mm is on a buck I bet the 9mm would do better on the linear.

So I will retract my comparison statement because I am not comparing them on equal terms.
 
Wolfman29

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Are you sure you have the buck driver set up properly? Because typically, buck drivers are more stable at high-currents than linear drivers :thinking:
 
Kizdawg

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yes and it is not your buck driver. it's a fmt @ 1950ma.

I'm not complaining I love all my builds.. I have one 9mm @ 780ma it's great and will probably live ~forever~

I think DTR hit it on the head! With all these Fixed resistor drivers do we even need a test load anymore? not like we can change the current easily.
 
Wolfman29

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Still though. The FMT should be outputting 1950mA. You can check the current the diode is seeing by putting your DMM in series with your diode, i.e. driver+ out to DMM in current mode to D+ and then keep the D- connected to the driver- out.
 
Kizdawg

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Unless my Vf isnt enough for it to buck properly.

no that's not it... I was saying unless my batteries are too low and not inputing enough current I guess. I spent a ton on batteries IMR's even the 14500's output huge current so I dont think it is a battery issue. I dont even look at the ultrafire/trustfires anymore(Junk for these builds).
 
foulmist

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Kizdawg said:
Unless my Vf isnt enough for it to buck properly.

no that's not it... I was saying unless my batteries are too low and not inputing enough current I guess. I spent a ton on batteries IMR's even the 14500's output huge current so I dont think it is a battery issue. I dont even look at the ultrafire/trustfires anymore(Junk for these builds).
Click to expand...

I have tested that driver of yours with Samsung 3000mAh from Larry,

It's outputting ~1950mA. But in boost mode. How are you trying to get it in Buck? :thinking: Are you using two batteries???? That would certainly kill the driver. Max input voltage is 6V. And you need somewhere around 3.5A of input current for boosting from a single cell for a 445nm diode at 1.95A.

What is your setup exactly??
 
Kizdawg

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On your driver i'm just using 1 samsung 18650 cel sorry I got confused there a min. it was on the blitzbucks I am using 2x 14500's,

Sorry I actually am happy with my lasers Your driver is fine Tom This all came about by me making the statement that I was getting better out of the h1600's than the 9mm Which I have retracted because I was comparing apples to oranges the setups are not the same therefore my statement is incorrect. I would have to be testing them under the exact same conditions for me to make that statement and probably test more than 4 diodes as well.
 
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Kizdawg

Kizdawg

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I'm not sure if we've decided definitively what the 9mms can take. I've run mine at 2A.

But really, they're just the same diode as the 5.6mms, so I'm not sure why anyone would approach a build any differently.

This is what set my goal so I dont think I was pushing the h1600 when 1800ma was recomended.

And if the forward voltage of the 9mm's is more then the current rating I was reading was out.
 
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