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FrozenGate by Avery

FREE DIY open source BOOST driver!!! Tested & working!!

OK Then your ahead of me... the round ones are a breeze.. I love that format..
 
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Does it matter if these two get bridged?

board.png
 
Kizdawg, you are insane! I enjoy reading (most of) your stuff though. You seem to be catching on fast! Keep up the (mostly) good work! :D
 
I tested it on a testload and got a solid reading of what I was expecting. Is the driver safe to use? The caps are bridged.
 
Machinist Joe said:
I tested it on a testload and got a solid reading of what I was expecting. Is the driver safe to use? The caps are bridged.
Click to expand...

Are you saying you are bridging the FB pin and the GND pin. O.o ... if so that is a serious mistake that will lead to no current regulation.

I am not sure what those arrows are pointing at :D

Or is that top cap just not connected to anything? :thinking:
please explain more clearly :D like draw a line what needs to be bridged :D

EDIT: and those caps need to be between the GROUND and the Vout not beetween Vout and FB pin.
 
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I see but according to the datasheet the output caps should be connected between Vout and GND. And yours are connected between Vout and FB?

Leaving the Vout and GND without capacitors will give you HUGEE current ripple..

In addition you can have a cap between the Vout and FB pin to smooth the ripple even further. But without the Vout and GND caps ripples will be tremendous!
 
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Foulmist... I have no clue what you just said. I don't know anything about this. I tested it on a test load though and got a constant output, and now put it into a build and shes working.
 
Machinist Joe said:
Foulmist... I have no clue what you just said. I don't know anything about this. I tested it on a test load though and got a constant output, and now put it into a build and shes working.
Click to expand...

lol :D well I am not sure what you did there. But if you are using the layout with bridge there is no output cap which is bad.

but I might be wrong maybe someone else can confirm that :)
 
I want to parallel two ben boost drivers (859mA each) for a M140 445nm build.
I would like to switch on the second driver with a switch.

From what I see, 'L-' and 'Vin' would need to be switched (to LD and power supply), so a double switch should be fine. Is this correct?

Another idea would be to have a resistor (5 Ohms) in line with a poti (0-500 Ohms) parallel to the output (from 'L+' to 'L-') to channel some current through it in order to dim the LD.
Does anybody see a problem with this?
 
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I just checked mine and none of the ones I did were bridged there so I cant say..

Next time I start babbling just tell me 'put the beer down and goto bed allready!' :)
 
Hmm odd... I got the Digikey order today Man there fast! I put a board together with a 1.6ohm resistor on r1 and I am getting about 172ma out with a 14500 and 191ma with a 18650... the math say's I should be getting arround 118ma...
 
Kizdawg said:
Hmm odd... I got the Digikey order today Man there fast! I put a board together with a 1.6ohm resistor on r1 and I am getting about 172ma out with a 14500 and 191ma with a 18650... the math say's I should be getting arround 118ma...
Click to expand...

Change your load Higher.
 
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