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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

FREE DIY open source BOOST driver!!! Tested & working!!

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Machinist Joe

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I think my syringe is too big. And I didn't know solder paste was supposed to be refrigerated.

Second one I did looks like crap, wouldn't work for sure.

Third try, I decided to actually hand solder all the pads, then tack one leg down of each component, then reflow. Took ages, but turned out well.
 





Kizdawg

Kizdawg

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the diodes have a bar on them and the mosfet has a little dot on one corner.
 
M

Machinist Joe

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Does the bar go on top? If you are looking at it with the writing the right way? And with the mosfet. That is really hard to see, Is there an easier way?
 
Kizdawg

Kizdawg

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The bar goes the same as the bar in the eagle file and I dont think there is an easier way for the mosfet there is a dot on one corner must align with the dot in the eagle file.
 
Kizdawg

Kizdawg

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Say sorry to double post but if I wanted to set one of these for say 150ma what would I need for resistors? Or is 190ma the lowest we can set them?
 
AnthoT

AnthoT

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Kizdawg said:
Say sorry to double post but if I wanted to set one of these for say 150ma what would I need for resistors? Or is 190ma the lowest we can set them?
Click to expand...

1x 1.25ohm resistor would give you 152mA :beer:
 
Kizdawg

Kizdawg

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ThanKs.. I remember now.. Current is calculated by: I (in Amps) = 0.19 / Rset (in Ohms)
 
Kizdawg

Kizdawg

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What kind of eagle skills I have a very basic understanding. I was able to export the cream layers for stensil production. :)

Maybe a stupid Q but we can use these for 405 builds too eh. prety sure the BR's are taking arround 5V. I'm askin cuz I think I just killed a GGW-H20L 6x. @ 200ma. Guess it could have been the 200ma but I read that just to be safe 190ma would do fine so I thaught 200 wouldnt have hurt. MeatGrinder strikes again!@ :horse:
 
Kizdawg

Kizdawg

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Well I just ordered a series of resistors to get some old school low ma.

1.1ohm 172ma
1.2ohm 158ma
1.3ohm 146ma
1.5ohm 126ma
1.6ohm 118ma
1.8ohm 105ma

I also grabbed some of those inductors for the round boards Ben recomended. I made a couple rounds last night with the other ones and they kept moving my parts arround trying to set them in place but the drivers turned out fine in the end. I find the round drivers very easy to make. the OVP boards are a little harder but with a blue end for the solder paste it works ok.

can I use these resistors paralleled with the other 1, .75, .5, .33, .3ohm ones to get finer ma in different ranges? I also noted that the math is incorect at leist to what the driver actually outputs. My output readings on all the ones I made are close but usually the math is understated. These things all put out a little more than the math even with 14500's or cr123's..
 
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M

Machinist Joe

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Im having trouble actually finding parts in eagle. I looked for about an hour for the LM3410 and couldn't find it.

My problem is applying too much paste. I can't seem to get a little bit to come out. It just comes out in huge blobs. Im going to try to get a skinnier syringe tip.

Is there actually a problem with these running 405s? I've seen a couple people state issues with them. Why is this?
 
Kizdawg

Kizdawg

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ooops To finnish that one off. I dont know on the 405's... I killed mine.. Thanks DOG it wasnt a 100$ diode! you want a syringe tip the size of a diabetic needle for insulin.. very small keep your paste in the refrigerator... I only take mine out to squeese a bit on a board and it squeeses out fine cold... even through a tiny siringe. Stole my blue one off the solder flux flaminpyro sent me maybe the flux left in the barrel helped me out..
 
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M

Machinist Joe

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Kizdawg, you misunderstood me when I said I was having trouble finding the parts in eagle. I meant I was having trouble finding the chip in the eagle library to try to use to make a schematic. Not having trouble finding the chip on the board. Thats easy. Anyway, just made two more. Round ones. Looking promising. I'll test them later.

About the dot on the mosfet. I'm practically half blind, so its really really hard to see. And on the diode. I didn't know if the bar was the same as on the schematic. but I figured that out now.
 
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