foulmist
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Kent you can get probably a little bit more than 2.2A in boost mode and around 3A in buck mode. 
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17mm buck-boost driver (TPS63020 and LT6106)
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Kizdawg
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Kewl that sounds great I must have misunderstood ya.. I'll definately will give it a go on this 9mm 445 I just recieved when I get it back I also want to order a few more parts and try to make another I'm sure I can get one of them TPS on ok...
I also want to order a few more parts and try to make another I'm sure I can get one of them TPS on ok...
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A few thoughts, these are expensive little boogers, don't forget to use ti's sample program. I believe you can get three free per month.
Kent, I have some of that flux but I'm not sure how you are using it... You still need solder paste of course. I think the tacky flux is for resoldering or using a heat gun to resolder to a pad with solder already on it.
Kent, I have some of that flux but I'm not sure how you are using it... You still need solder paste of course. I think the tacky flux is for resoldering or using a heat gun to resolder to a pad with solder already on it.
Kizdawg
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See I thaught the tacky flux was for under the IC to hold it in place..
foulmist
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I am not sure what you mean by tacky? anyway if that is the stuff that is like semitransparent paste then that is just flux that helps wetting the joints and makes soldering easier. It's already in the solder paste but when reworking or soldering on dry joints it's a must.
I don't know how are you going to use it in an oven or with solder paste. I never use solder paste. I just use tacky paste and solder wire to tin all the pads. Remove the old paste, put a new coat on the tinned pads, put the components on (the paste holds them in place). Reflow. Done. I like it that way
anyway if that is the stuff that is like semitransparent paste then that is just flux that helps wetting the joints and makes soldering easier. It's already in the solder paste but when reworking or soldering on dry joints it's a must. I don't know how are you going to use it in an oven or with solder paste. I never use solder paste. I just use tacky paste and solder wire to tin all the pads. Remove the old paste, put a new coat on the tinned pads, put the components on (the paste holds them in place). Reflow. Done. I like it that way
Kizdawg
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The tacky flux is red Jeff FP sells it and it is for reflowing Er re-working. This stuff is like glue very thick and sticky from what I understand of it you can use it to hold your parts in place when you reflow you do still need solder paste. I dont know how to use it properly was kind of hoping some of you had used it in the past. But that was the understanding I got from jeff.
I think tsteele may have hit it onthe head. could be for reworking boards that allready have been soldered b4. I just thaught that it may be helpfull with this chip. I thaught that it could be used at the end after all the paste was applied on the ic just put a dab on the corners of teh TPS heatsink pad and it would help hold it in place then reflow it. Maybe I just need a better magnifying glass and a smaller tip for my solder paste.
I think tsteele may have hit it onthe head. could be for reworking boards that allready have been soldered b4. I just thaught that it may be helpfull with this chip. I thaught that it could be used at the end after all the paste was applied on the ic just put a dab on the corners of teh TPS heatsink pad and it would help hold it in place then reflow it. Maybe I just need a better magnifying glass and a smaller tip for my solder paste.
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foulmist
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Kizdawg
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I think little dips was what I was trying to do.. I baught a paste syringe It is really hard to press it out expecially with a small tip it makes the whole process for me a little shaky when your trying to squeeze it out. I keep it in ziplocks in the refrigerator. and let it warm up before I use it but it is still hard to press it out.. maybe I should press some out onto a business card first and work it a bit then use a toothpic or something to apply the paste..
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foulmist
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yeah I got mine in little box type and apply it with a screwdriver
Kizdawg
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I am telling you it's hard trying to squeese it out I have had to wipe off a board a couple times cuz I screwed up... I am going to try it that way next time. The only way I have ever seen it applied was with a stencil so I'm just doin my best to get it on there corectly. I do need a bigger magnifying glass with a light too because it's very hard for me to see it all through the mag that came with my helping hands..
gillza
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Awesome!
Building this driver is my next step after putting together DIY LPM
Building this driver is my next step after putting together DIY LPM
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Kizdawg
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For sure Luke! Allway's love to see your new work... How's the 6W going?
I got my Ophir wired 120v-12V 1A the other day and I must say it zeros out now and it never really did with the 9V batteries. It used to sit at about 10mw ish.. now it sits at 1 to -1mw
I got my Ophir wired 120v-12V 1A the other day and I must say it zeros out now and it never really did with the 9V batteries. It used to sit at about 10mw ish.. now it sits at 1 to -1mw
Kizdawg
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Well I recieved my driver back from Toma today it's working much better now. I think it is inspireing me to try it on the 9mm at max out with this resistor to see what I can get. I am currently recharging some batteries and have been playing with a few semi charged ones and have seen just over 2A on one most have been sitting arround 1850ma. I wont call my mm the most accurate either as it's 9V dies my readings change a bit I want to get a 9V adapter for it so it stay's stable. I have a host and h1600 kicking arround I may use it on too I duno yet but I am definately going to test it out a bit tonight..
haha funny how batteries react.. I tested a bunch I had here from 16340's 18650's and 14500's and there is one little freak of a 14500 that is making this output about 70ma more than all the rest and it is sitting at 3.86V some of the others are above 4V.. with it were sitting 2.36W with the rest it's all arround 2.25-2.3W lol.. I'm still waiting for the samsung 3000mah to charge..
haha funny how batteries react.. I tested a bunch I had here from 16340's 18650's and 14500's and there is one little freak of a 14500 that is making this output about 70ma more than all the rest and it is sitting at 3.86V some of the others are above 4V.. with it were sitting 2.36W with the rest it's all arround 2.25-2.3W lol.. I'm still waiting for the samsung 3000mah to charge..
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Hiemal
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Has anyone tested this driver for current spikes out of curiousity? I'm using a similar chip and the LT6106, and I'm having problems with startup spikes.
AnthoT
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Page 8 post # 193 it was scoped
