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Old 09-03-2010, 11:11 AM #113
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

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Originally Posted by Curious View Post
Sorry for this noob question but.. I don't understand why this isn't a big deal 1 Watt Blue Laser Pointer Ice Series but the Arctic is a big deal?

I guess it's not continuous and half the "120min" battery life of the arctic.
The Arctic was the first to market, at an amazing price at the time, got a whole lot of attention (a huge amount negative, because of problems with early builds and crap customer service). New 1W blues are coming out from Dragon, Rayfoss and others quickly now.

I think two hours is a little optimistic. I got an hour, with plenty to go, but I don't know if it would get another hour.


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Old 09-04-2010, 08:26 AM #114
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

Oh, So the artic was big news when it first came out (was announced). It's not really out yet for 90% of the people who ordered. So why wouldn't everyone cancel their order that hasn't received it yet and get one of these ones they don't have to wait for at about the same price and with more reliable battery/lens/CUSTOMER SERVICE/everything? Yes, I think I'm clever for sneaking in the customer service.

Edit: Just convinced myself to cancel my Artic order. After all this waiting... Now I am kind of relieved and sad at the same time. Gonna order a Spartan probably. And I take back what I said about their customer service, I got my refund in 1 hour. That's not too shabby .

Last edited by Curious; 09-04-2010 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 09-04-2010, 09:32 AM #115
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

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Old 09-04-2010, 02:45 PM #116
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

Quote:
Originally Posted by Curious View Post
Oh, So the artic was big news when it first came out (was announced). It's not really out yet for 90% of the people who ordered. So why wouldn't everyone cancel their order that hasn't received it yet and get one of these ones they don't have to wait for at about the same price and with more reliable battery/lens/CUSTOMER SERVICE/everything? Yes, I think I'm clever for sneaking in the customer service.

Edit: Just convinced myself to cancel my Artic order. After all this waiting... Now I am kind of relieved and sad at the same time. Gonna order a Spartan probably. And I take back what I said about their customer service, I got my refund in 1 hour. That's not too shabby .
You might want to check out the Rayfoss. Read this thread.

We are getting less complaints, and more Arctics are being delivered.
We know they have made changes from the originals.
Maybe they are getting their act together on production. Now, if they could just improve communications....
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Old 09-04-2010, 03:27 PM #117
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

I think one of the problems with communications with getting the Arctics shipped out properly in the first place might be the fact that it appears that WL has farmed-out the actual production of the Arctics to a 3rd party and thus has lost a lot of control over how/when/who that company is shipping them out for WL; as they are being directly dropped shipped from the actual manufacture.
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Old 09-05-2010, 04:22 AM #118
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

There are people recommending removing the lens from the "training lens" by unscrewing the the brace from the inside.

Well I just got my G2 yesterday, and it looks to me that my lenses are epoxied closed. I cannot "unscrew" the training lens out no matter how hard I try.

Does anyone else have this problem or any recommended solution?
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Old 09-05-2010, 12:17 PM #119
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

So I guess WL read people were doing that on here probably, and now they have epoxied the lenses in too? Geez are we aloud to do anything with our own property? I don't think that is fair one bit.

Can you carefully scrap any of it off? I used chloroform in the past to melt away epoxy, its very slow in doing so, but clean. The problem is its expensive and can be dangerous if your not careful and the sale of it is controlled.
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Old 09-05-2010, 05:44 PM #120
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

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Originally Posted by electron View Post
So I guess WL read people were doing that on here probably, and now they have epoxied the lenses in too? Geez are we aloud to do anything with our own property? I don't think that is fair one bit.

Can you carefully scrap any of it off? I used chloroform in the past to melt away epoxy, its very slow in doing so, but clean. The problem is its expensive and can be dangerous if your not careful and the sale of it is controlled.
It's like a screw that's been dipped in glue and then screwed in. I don't think I'll be able to scrape it off because I can't even see it. I don't have access to chloroform :-(

Maybe I should just smash the lens? Damn this sucks.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:04 PM #121
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

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Originally Posted by flameboy View Post
It's like a screw that's been dipped in glue and then screwed in. I don't think I'll be able to scrape it off because I can't even see it. I don't have access to chloroform :-(

Maybe I should just smash the lens? Damn this sucks.
I'd use a tile bit and drill it out.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:50 PM #122
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

Quote:
Originally Posted by flameboy View Post
There are people recommending removing the lens from the "training lens" by unscrewing the the brace from the inside.

Well I just got my G2 yesterday, and it looks to me that my lenses are epoxied closed. I cannot "unscrew" the training lens out no matter how hard I try.

Does anyone else have this problem or any recommended solution?

Pics of yours?

G1 looks like this:

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Old 09-05-2010, 09:11 PM #123
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

My Arctic arrived a few days ago. Except for the fact that I requested a G1 and got a G2, and that I tried to cancel it 3 weeks before it arrived, I can't complain too much about it. Yeah, it's only metering between 770-800 mW, but it hasn't died yet. It's still my most powerful laser, and while it may not be the best deal out there, $200 bucks for 800 mW is a pretty good in my opinion.

And I should have two XJ-A140 diodes coming from Kiyoukan, so I'll have a couple ~1 W 445s soon.
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Old 09-05-2010, 11:58 PM #124
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

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Originally Posted by ZapU View Post
Pics of yours?

G1 looks like this:



You can see how the training lens on the right seems to have some sort of clear glue around the edges making it impossible to unscrew that back piece.

I think the regular lens is also similarly glued with epoxy. So I cant modify either of them without breaking the glass :-(
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Old 09-06-2010, 01:04 AM #125
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

I can't quite tell from the picture about it having clear glue around it, but if you say it does, well you have it in your hands, then it does.

I wondering when they started doing that? Both my G1 & G2 are not like that at all for the training lens.

Now the full power lens does have the white glue as shown in your other picture on both my G1 & G2, so that won't work.

I guess there are a couple of ways you can handle this, depends on if you want to be able to put it back the way you bought it; which I know I would want to.

As you said, you could break the glass and the black ring is really only plastic, so that can be done in very short fashion. The only other way I know of would be to get some chloroform and soak it overnight in it.

There may be other agents that work too, but you've got a plastic ring there; so you'd have to be careful not to deform or melt it. I had a 1.5L of it in the garage and looked all around for it, and for the life of me I can't figure out where it went; I've used it many times in the past to dissolve epoxy from electronics, but that was years ago; I was going to offer to send you a couple ounces of it, sorry.

Speaking of melting it, how about carefully using a heat gun such as the ones used for shrink wrap tubing and heat it up and try to turn the ring then? You should be able to get that glue warm enough that with a little force with your snap ring pliers that you could get it to turn. The more I think about it, the more I think I would try heat, but don't over do the heat for obvious reasons.
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DX-200 660nm & 532nm, Leadlights & numerous 5mw-100mW 532mn
IgorT (6x) 209mW & (PHR) 140mW, Kryton 155mW, Daguin 165mW
Wicked Lasers S3 Spyder Krypton 1W model and 750mW+ model (839mW)
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:43 AM #126
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

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Originally Posted by flameboy View Post
You can see how the training lens on the right seems to have some sort of clear glue around the edges making it impossible to unscrew that back piece.

I think the regular lens is also similarly glued with epoxy. So I cant modify either of them without breaking the glass :-(
The retaining screw plate on mine is aluminum. Heat might work to release the glue. If you have a small soldering tip, you could test it easily.
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Care and feeding of your Arctic G1 beast - do's and don'ts review
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Old 09-06-2010, 05:58 AM #127
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

I can verify that the two Arctics that I just received have epoxied-in training lens retainers as well.
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3392nm:REO LHIP HeNe 2mW ∙ 980nm:OLIKE 155mW

808nm:OLIKE 200mW ∙ JETL PLC 600mW(682pk)
780nm:OLIKE 120mW
685nm:18650 47mW
671nm:PGL3M 281mW DPSS ∙ PGL3C 278mW
655nm:LOC 254mW ∙ OLIKE 221mW ∙ Yob 320mW
638nm:Sanyo 40mW ∙ HL63133 200mW ∙ PGL3C 463mWpk ∙ ML520 700mW
633nm:JDS1145 HeNe 28mW ∙ JDS1145 HeNe 26mW
612nm:MG 05LOR151 HeNe 3mW ∙ REO LSTP 3mW
609nm:REO LHOR 1mW
604nm:REO LSTP 2mW
594nm:Rigel 3mW ∙ LG PGL3C 15mWpk ∙ Lasos 7512 3mW ∙ CNI MGL3 58mWpk
589nm:CNI PGL3C 106mW ∙ CNI PGL3C 85mW
561nm:CNI PGL3C 30mW(41pk)
556nm:CNI PGL3C 20mW(22pk)
544nm:JDS1675P HeNe 2mW ∙ REO LHGR 2mW ∙ Lasos 7786 2mW
532nm:PGL3C 150mW(180pk) ∙ PGL3C 578mWpk ∙ PLC 440mWpk
515nm:JDS 221420GL ArI 30mW
510nm:52mW DG#2 ∙ 50mW 26650 DG
488nm:Nlx DPSS 7mW ∙ JDS 2214 ArI 40mW ∙ JDS FCD488 DPSS 25mW
ML:MG 65A106025 ArI ML 115mW
476/480nm:Nichia Diode 28mW
473nm:PGL3A 45mW(80pk) ∙ PGL3C 110mWpk ∙ PGL3C 95mWpk ∙ RPLB-25 60mWpk
465nm:DTR NDB7676 2.03w
458nm:JDS 2214VL ArI 8mW ∙ JDS 2214VL ArI 12mW ∙ RHD Diode 1.7W
452nm:Osram SM 47mW
445nm:Yob 1410mW ∙ Polaris 156mW ∙ PGL3C 1200mW ∙ DTR-EHG 32650 2136mW
405nm:Yob 630mW ∙ Qfox 750mW ∙ JETL PLC 780mW
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Old 09-06-2010, 06:05 AM #128
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Default Re: Spyder III Pro Arctic - Questions Answered

I updated the picture to point out the glue just so everyone can see it. I appreciate the chloroform offer. I think I just might try soaking it in goo-gone over night and see what happens and post back with the results.
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