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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

So I picked up a mohgasm JAD C6 kit (1,35A)

RedDart

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jimdt7 said:
Here is a chart using the m-140 diode and the g2 lens:
graph.png


Jim
Click to expand...

1.8W, holy...
 





jimdt7

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My new BigBoy laser uses the new 9mm diode at 2.1A....2.7W peak
with the projector lens... :drool:

Jim
 
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RedDart

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jimdt7 said:
My bigboy uses the new 9mm diode at 2.1A....2.7W peak
with the projector lens... :drool:

Jim
Click to expand...

I have to start with that 60$ bundle I can't even afford the 60$ bundle so G-2 lens is just a dream right now lol
 
cheech226

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dtr also sells the a140 diode with module and 3 element for $53. $7 is $7! might help you. you will still have a kick ass laser. while the g2 lens does let thru more power the only thing you will notice without an lpm is that the dot (bar) and beam will look Worse.
 
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cheech226

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you could, but with that driver and a 445nm diode the output would be seriously reduced. it's a linear driver and to power a 445 diode proper you need 7+V
 
Hiemal

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Basically you need two 16340 cells...

AW IMR16340 550 mAh IMR CR123 size LiMN Rechargeable Lithium Battery

Will work, but keep in mind your runtimes are going to be rather small with that much current draw.

To get more run time you'd need to invest into a switching type driver; Flexdrive, E-drive, Blitzbuck/boost, whatever it may be.

Linear drivers are great if your cell voltage is close to your input voltage; however the farther it gets the more inefficient the driver is. 8.4 volts - 5 volts is about 3.4 volts to drop, at 1.35 amps... (5 volts being the forward voltage of your 445 nm diode)

That's about 5 watts of power being dissipated in your driver, ALONE.

They're great for starting builds due to their inherent simplicity and cost, but...yeah. Tis just the nature of the beast :p
 
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RedDart

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Billiam said:
445nm M140 Diode In Copper Module With Leads
& Three Element Glass Lens
$60

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/445-m140-didoes

and on that page

Then all you'll need to do is put that into the heatsink with the set screw and then solder the red to the positive on your driver and the white to your negative.
Click to expand...

I received it(by the way such a nice quality build), and the hole in the heatsink for the module is 12mm I believe, so would that module fit??? The 60$ one?
 
Mohrenberg

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RedDart said:
I received it(by the way such a nice quality build), and the hole in the heatsink for the module is 12mm I believe, so would that module fit??? The 60$ one?
Click to expand...

Yup, the heat sink is made for that module.

If you get that from DTR, all you've got to do is connected the red and black wires and you're done.
Just clip off the white wire, you don't need to use that one.
 
RedDart

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Mohrenberg said:
Yup, the heat sink is made for that module.

If you get that from DTR, all you've got to do is connected the red and black wires and you're done.
Just clip off the white wire, you don't need to use that one.
Click to expand...

I don't see a white wire anywhere :p
 
Moistenator

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RedDart said:
I don't see a white wire anywhere :p
Click to expand...
He's referring to the white wire that will be already soldered on the module that you buy off DTR. It will have 3 wires coming out of it, Red(+), Black(-), and a white wire... Cut the white one off, Solder the read on the module to the red on the driver, and same with the black, and you're laser's done. Be sure to use heatshrink on your joins so that none of the wires short the diode.
 
RedDart

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Billiam said:
He's referring to the white wire that will be already soldered on the module that you buy off DTR. It will have 3 wires coming out of it, Red(+), Black(-), and a white wire... Cut the white one off, Solder the read on the module to the red on the driver, and same with the black, and you're laser's done. Be sure to use heatshrink on your joins so that none of the wires short the diode.
Click to expand...

Ordered my module from DTR so let's hope I get it right :p Gotta find heatshrink!
 
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