Pinout for 445 nm diode a130

limewire161:
I don't know if this will help, but here are a few pics of a casio A-130 or A-140 445nm running at 400mW that I received broken. I took a few pics and put it back together. The braided wires just came undone. It uses a flexdrive and one 16340 battery. This seems to be the simplest hookup, but seems a bit weak because the LD only gets it's "-" from a small solder joint on the edge of the pill, which may or may not always have a tight contact with the host. Flexdrives are negative continuous, meaning it doesn't matter which end you connect the "-" to. This particular build did not take advantage of that, nor did it use the case pin on the bottom, middle. It connects the right pin to "+" and the left pin to "-" on the driver. Personally, I'm not 100% sure, but it seems to me that both the case and negative can be connected to the driver negative(either end). You can save space with the flexdrive's continuous negative by eliminating a wire on one end. Here's a few pix. Hope it helps a little.

The broken wires.



Halfway visible wiring connection to the LD. Heatsink is upside down.



Wires reconnected.



Inside pill shot.

Good luck.

Kevlar said:

This is how I just did my Ehgemus build, case negative. I wanted to make sure so I checked with Ehgemus, this is the diagram he sent me.

Or you could connect a wire from the - input on the driver to the host

Click to expand...

I'd like to clear something up about the FlexdriveV5:



Oh, I just want to add, if the case pin is too short to use, you need to find a way to get your host/case to connect to either one of the (-)'s on the FlexdriveV5, or neither of these illustrations will work if the battery (-) can't find the diode (-).
Good luck,
The Blob

The above is not true with a Microboost. The Battery input negative terminal and negative diode out terminal are not continuous, and they can not be wired as such. (IE, they can't be electrically connected at all.)

Since the 445 diode is case neutral you can just hook the positive and negative pins from the diode to the corresponding terminals on the microboost and then wire the case pin to the negative input of the microboost. Since the case is neutral it's just about the best place to get a solid, solder-able point for your driver in most situations.

The Flex is a bit easier since the input and output negative terminals are continuous. What I like to do, just to save time, is bend the case pin over until it's just about touching the negative pin. That makes it a lot easier to solder together. I usually just bend against a sewing needle or some other small object to create a little radius to stress that case pin a little bit less. I wouldn't bend the negative pin in the same way though, it's easy to mess a diode up twisting on those pins.

Yes, the above is true considering the Flexdrive only, but not the one you mentioned, the microboost nor the rkcstr drive. Considering the latter two drives, the picture on the left would work. It's good you pointed that out!

As far as bending pins and not wires, you got more guts than I do! Peace, out. The Blob