NUBM44 6W+ 450nm Laser Diode

I'm not sure how shipping is to other countries, but Amazon has tons of good quality batteries now days. I have purchased several different brands of high current batteries, and have had great experiences with them.

.. just ordered a pair of LG cells from an UK trusted seller for my new 6+W diode

Has anyone used a Superboost driver to drive one of these yet?

TaterMay said:

Has anyone used a Superboost driver to drive one of these yet?

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There is no advantage to it. Correct me if I'm wrong but boost drives are not any more efficient than buck drivers, actually I think they are less efficient.
If nothing else they would be harder on the batteries and you will need just as many only all in parallel.
That's if you had a boost drive capable of a sustained 25 watt output and you could effectively dissipate all the waste heat.

Maybe the way to do this is paralleling 2 fixed xboost drivers just to split the heatload on the drivers

I need a pointer push button switch for 30 amps, not sure i will find that.

RedCowboy said:

There is no advantage to it. Correct me if I'm wrong but boost drives are not any more efficient than buck drivers, actually I think they are less efficient.
If nothing else they would be harder on the batteries and you will need just as many only all in parallel.
That's if you had a boost drive capable of a sustained 25 watt output and you could effectively dissipate all the waste heat.

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Of course boost drivers aren't as efficient as buck drivers. This is why I'm asking. I already have a Superboost on hand. I am curious if anyone has used one to push 4.5 amps or higher. The Superboost is supposed to be capable of 5+ amps. I've got plenty of high current batteries that will work with it. I might actually just order an SXD and compare the two.

Alaskan said:

I need a pointer push button switch for 30 amps, not sure i will find that.

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You could use the small button you're comfortable with to operate a relay.
30amps, how many diodes are you going to use?

TaterMay Yes. Several people have bought them from me already or from Flaminpyro for use with these 44 diodes.:wave:

The SXB-V8 can boost up to 5.5A for these diodes no problem. Plenty of Power. IMR battery is a Must.

That should be more then enough current for anyone but if need be until the new 10A "SXB-V8 Plus" version comes out in a few months you can dual a pair of SXB-V8 drivers for up to 10A+ Boost output current.

Not that anyone needs 10A now but iam just saying its possible to dual them.

You will be fine with 1 SXB-V8 though. No need to dual them for this diode. Not alot of heat comes off the driver for 4A+ but still needs to be heatsinked well. I guess one can dual them to reduce the heat greatly but its not worth spending the extra money on a driver just to do this. But if someone wants to do this i will give a discount on the second drivers if that is your purpose.

You will need IMR cells and a switch that can take the current draw which will be 7A+... You will need to run short wire and use 22AWG or lower AWG.


Jeff is out of town right now so if anyone needs a SXB-V8 until he comes back contact me.
He has not had a chance to change the Text on Max rating in his thread on some of the SXB version so ask before you purchase if the version you are interested in is able for 4A+ until he updates. So if you have any questions Please Pm or email me.

Having said that I would suggest going buck (SXD-V3) or whatever driver you want to go with and grab one from DTR store or Flaminpyro "When hes back". With this high of current unless you know your host/host switch and wiring can take the current draw boost should be your second option to Buck.

Here is the build i did for a customer a couple weeks ago using the SXB-V8 Boost Big Boy 5A+ version.

This was after 2 minutes being on. It peaked at just under 7W. The SXB-V8 Boost driver was set for 4.7A


and the Big Boy SXB-V8 version for this host:




Since the SXB-V8 Big Boy version driver went into the pill spot in the host i added a copper heatsink on the chip and a small copper heatsink on the flat pack diode to help with cooling. It was more then enough.

But any of the SXB-V8 version, once you heatsink them they run cool.

This build takes 3X 18650 cells in parallel. So it was a Great choose for the SXB-V8 Boost. I used 3x LG HE2 18650 IMR cells to power it and worked Great.

But As i said i think Buck is the way to go for these diodes.

The SXD-V3 Buck also has Ramp Up on it available which can be set up to ~30 second right now "More if needed". This is a Special request so you would have to come to me for this option. Here is an example:


This feature was designed for the C-mount 660nm diodes a while back so they dont get hit with full current and thermal shock the diode and a few Lab laser projects that someone needed done. I think now with these blues and especially with the 07E diodes or even the M462nm or Nichia 462nm diodes that people push them passed the roll back so they can squeeze out some extra nm out of the diode, a nice longer ramp up for that would be a nice touch even though typical blue diodes are robust your pushing your luck passed the roll back.

You can actually see the diode changing Wavelengths on the O7E going passed the roll back when you have ramp up on it.I must say too it looks cool too. But this is not the thread to talk about the 07E. Just excited.:shhh:

Might be a nice touch for the 44 diodes too for some people. But most just want full power instant which is fine too.:beer:

Cyparagon said:

I'll take a video of 60A through 14awg when I get back to the states if I remember. I'm pretty sure it'll get floppy and start smoking.

Remember, wire insulation also insulates against heat. So you cannot feel the real temperature of the copper. Running the wire at obscene loads may not instantly smoke the insulation, but it WILL degrade it over time.



The length only affects the voltage drop (and parasitic inductance, etc.). The heat per unit length will remain the same.



No. Strand count has no effect on the current carrying capability. The AWG number is a measurement of the cross-sectional area of the copper, and therefore the resistance per unit length.



Wrong. It has zero effect. The equation is power(heat)=I²R. R is the resistance of the wire which is a constant, and I is the current through the wire. This means if you double the current, you get 4 times the heating. If you triple the current, you get 9 times the heating.

The leads to a 600V 10A load will have identical wire heating profile as that of a 2V 10A load.



Yep.

The voltage rating depends on the insulation type and the insulation thickness. Most insulation is rated for 300V or 600V. Some very small wires in data cables might have insulation only rated for 30V. Basically any 14awg wire will be rated for at least 300V.

That being said, it's a VERY conservative rating. 300V is tested to withstand 3kV, and 30V is tested to withstand >1kV. Actual instantaneous breakdown voltages will be much higher than this, still.

I worked on an extrusion line in a custom wire factory for 3 years. I know a thing or two.

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No need for a video Alex. I believe you. What i dont think is that the wire i have will have a problem. "Bellow i give you why." But can i send you some of this wire to run 60A through it when you get back.? Iam interested to see what would happen. I only have 40A MAX available to me until i decide to buy one of those nice 0-80A 0-15V supply's on ebay. Cant seem to snatch one up cheap yet in good condition.

You know what, ill give you a link to order from and ill PP you the money. PM later incoming. Plus i need your help on something.:shhh:


I agree with you that it will degrade overtime more then likely. As i said under the condition iam using the wire i have i dont see 60A being a problem. But because i dont know the true specs of this wire other then it says 55A Rated and from the 40A i put into it i cant say if running it for long periods of time will degrade or burn the wire. Ive ran it on my Tiapan for maybe 30 minutes and it was fine at 35A-40A...It was Warm sure but not hot. I know insulation holds in heat but i would surely be able to tell the difference between it being warm and burning hot.


But doesn't the voltage drop cause more heat.? I swear when i use 1 foot vs 5 feet its like the wire doesn't even get warm.

What is the purpose then of high stand count then.? I was told that it gives better current handling.?

Well maybe this wire i have isn't 14AWG inside. After all its from overseas so they are not probably to standard. I will measure it tonight and update you on this. From what i real 14AWG is 1.628mm Correct?

So that couple be the answer that although it says 14AWG it night not be.


Dint realize that. I thought that the voltage also has effect. Learned something new here.:beer:

Yes this wire says its 600V on it.

I know you know your shiznick.:beer:

Alaskan said:

I need a pointer push button switch for 30 amps, not sure i will find that.

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Chris You dont need a 30A Switch if you are using the SXD-V3. Is this the tri build.?

If so you can have the tail cap be a solid connection and use the enable pin as the On/off switch and use as little of a switch you want to bridge the connection. PM me if you want to talk about it. I can help you on this. Its very easy to do if your host is setup in a way to use it.

I'm referring to the Superboost that Hiemal makes, not the SXB. They are different drivers, yea? I actually just ordered two SXD drivers. I'm interested in comparing them to see just how much more demand the Superboost places on batteries.

I ordered five V3's from Flaminpyro and because of some confusion with the model numbers on his web page, I emailed him to make sure I get the buck, not the boost version but no answer from him yet, this was a few days ago. I also ordered five more of the same from DTR, already have those in hand now, that guy is usually faster than anyone else at getting things out to me. I am wanting to build a knife edge with several laser diodes, ordered enough pieces to build one with up to 10 diodes, but probably will end up being 6 or 7 one watt 520nm diodes, only have four NDG7475T diodes in hand I found for 200 each right now, will be getting more of those too, but not this month, tapped out on play money now

I'm trying to get Ehgemus to build the host for it, found some high precision anodized small 9mm diode holders at lasertack.com as well as a bunch of prism FS mirrors for 520nm he sells to use with some half inch wide Newport Kinematic mirror positioners, so everything should go together in a minimum of space, only problem is heat! I hadn't thought of using the pin on the V3 to do the on-off, that's the solution, thanks! I plan on using three 32650 batteries but am concerned that might not be enough current capacity or they will drain down quickly, might need to limit the power out to 1 watt each due to that and heating issues.

TaterMay said:

I'm referring to the Superboost that Hiemal makes, not the SXB. They are different drivers, yea? I actually just ordered two SXD drivers. I'm interested in comparing them to see just how much more demand the Superboost places on batteries.

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Thats Funny. The SXB is called the "Super X-boost" in full. Hence why i thought you where talking about it. I Dint know that was the name of his driver. Its similar.

Yes different drivers.

None the less What i said still stands if anyone is using the SXB-V8.. or wants to use Boost. Buck is better for This high current.

Once you get above the 3A mark alot of hosts out there struggle to run a boost driver well.

The limitations is no longer the Drivers but the actual host/switch/connection/wiring.

Alaskan said:

I ordered five V3's from Flaminpyro and because of some confusion with the model numbers on his web page, I emailed him to make sure I get the buck, not the boost version but no answer from him yet, this was a few days ago. I also ordered five more of the same from DTR, already have those in hand now, that guy is usually faster than anyone else at getting things out to me. I am wanting to build a knife edge with several laser diodes, ordered enough pieces to build one with up to 10 diodes, but probably will end up being 6 or 7 one watt 520nm diodes, only have four NDG7475T diodes in hand I found for 200 each right now, will be getting more of those too, but not this month, tapped out on play money now

I'm trying to get Ehgemus to build the host for it, found some high precision anodized small 9mm diode holders at lasertack.com as well as a bunch of prism FS mirrors for 520nm he sells to use with some half inch wide Newport Kinematic mirror positioners, so everything should go together in a minimum of space, only problem is heat! I hadn't thought of using the pin on the V3 to do the on-off, that's the solution, thanks! I plan on using three 32650 batteries but am concerned that might not be enough current capacity or they will drain down quickly, might need to limit the power out to 1 watt each due to that and heating issues.

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Jeff is out of town. he will be back soon. Thats why for the delay.

You dint know DTR lives at the post office.?:crackup:

Yes the enable Pin is your answer.

Wow this build sounds Crazy and Big. Looking forward to that thread.

For 520 1W diodes those mounts will be just fine. But iam not sure they will cut it for the 44's... I have the brass version here and it doesn't do so well. Maybe the aluminum will be better.

Sweet.:beer:

lazeerer said:

What i dont think is that the wire i have will have a problem
...

i would surely be able to tell the difference between it being warm and burning hot.

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Don't be so sure. Here's an example of what an excellent insulator feels like when hot.



I ran 60A constant current (using a 0-5V/0-650A bench supply :shhh: ) through a length of 14awg, and this is what FLIR says:



The temperature of the insulation on the outside is 175C/350F. The copper, and insulation touching the copper is obviously going to be hotter than this, because it's being insulated from the air.

PVC doesn't have a precise melting point, it just gets more and more fluid the hotter it gets. The extrusion lines usually have it coming out of the head at 365F/185C. So the insulation on this length of wire is arguably molten, and the only reason it doesn't fall off the wire at this point is that it isn't quite fluid enough. It is hot to the touch, but I can hold onto it for a second or so. It is smoking slightly.

The rating of PVC is 60C to 105C depending on the type. Any higher, and it will degrade rapidly. The PVC in the extrusion heads needs to be constantly purged, because it will burn in about 10 minutes at 185C.

60A is clearly way too much for 14awg. If you're using silicone insulation, the insulation might be able to withstand it. (google says silicone is rated for 200C or so, although the insulation near the copper will be a lot hotter). But you're inevitably going to damage something on either side of the connection. Remember that solder melts at 183C.

You can try this yourself with your wire. Find a 1foot length of scrap, strip a small length from the center to expose the copper (or strip the whole thing), and put 40A through it. Or if you're feeling adventurous, parallel another supply or two to get 60A. Then grab hold of the copper - I dare you :evil:

Again, wire is cheap so there's no reason to "overdrive" it.

lazeerer said:

But doesn't the voltage drop cause more heat.?

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Yes, but that heat is distributed along the length of the wire. The net temperature rise of the conductor is the same. 1W in a 1-foot length, or 5W in a 5-foot length for example.

Or if you want to be more precise, 14awg is 2.5mΩ per foot. Using I²R=P, this means a 1 foot length running 60 amps will dissipate 60²*0.0025=9 watts. A 5 foot length will dissipate 60²*(0.0025*5)=45 watts. In both cases, the wire is dissipating 9 watts per foot.

From an efficiency perspective: you're wasting 36 watts if you've got a 2-foot connection between your power supply and your load. If you were using 6awg instead, you would be wasting only 6 watts.

lazeerer said:

What is the purpose then of high stand count then.? I was told that it gives better current handling.?

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More strands simply makes the wire more flexible. It has zero effect on the current handling capability.

lazeerer said:

From what i real 14AWG is 1.628mm Correct?

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The diameter of a single strand, yes. You've got more than one strand (which, together, add up to 14awg), so the proper way to measure the overall gauge is by cross-sectional area. Otherwise you're measuring the air in the conductor, which obviously does not contribute to the current handling.

That's a simple geometry problem. 14awg is 2.08mm². Use/borrow a micrometer (the tool, not the unit of length) to find the diameter of a single strand. Then count the number of strands. Total area is therefore (diameter/2)² * pi * strand count

DutchLaser said:

Nope, don't have a LPM.

I want to swap my 'Chinese Ebay G2 lens' with a 'G9' lens for even better output. I'll just have to believe it...
...too bad that I have no way to test it.

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you have yourself a beautiful build there my friend :bowdown:

Got my LG HG2 INR18650HG2 3000mAh 30A INR High Drain Batteries today that Minamoto Kobayashi found.
My intellicharger i4 charged them to 4.17v each, same as with a pair of the NCR 18650B 3400's.

Driving the NUBM44 @ 5.0 amps with 2 fully charged batteries in series via SXD driver.

2 X NCR 18650B @ 8.34v dropped to 7.5v then to 7.4v within 10 seconds.
2 x LG H2G INR @ 8.34v dropped to 7.8v then to 7.75v within 10 seconds.
INR looks better and mAh is comparable, as a bonus the LG's cost a little less.
I would say these are a winner.

I'm waiting again for mine ...
So there is not so much difference between the two cells.
I expected a greater difference ...