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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Need your expertise :)

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Hey everyone I am brand new to the laser world and have done quite a bit of research in the last 3 weeks to build my own laser. I know I should start off with something low powered to get the fundamentals but I only get one shot at this project, so I am building a 2W laser.

Here is the Diode I will be using:
http://www.amazon.com/445nm-Diode-C...=UTF8&qid=1432484459&sr=8-2&keywords=2w+laser

Here is the driver, I guess you all call them buck drivers:
http://www.amazon.com/1-8A-X-Drive-...sim_328_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0V3EWQQNAY8PEANE1013

Here is the Host assembly I was planning on using with the drilled driver pill as I learned you need that for rectangular drivers such as mine:

DIY C6 Host Assembly

I am at a lost for heat sink that would fit in my assembly and work well enough for a 2W laser so I just went out of the blue to pick this one:

Black Anodized Aluminum Heat Sink

And this for power:

http://www.amazon.com/Kits-RCR123A-...=1432484785&sr=8-1&keywords=RCR123a+batteries

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Once again I am quite a noob and don't know if everything will fit perfectly into the assembly so you're expertise and kind help and advice is huge for me. I don't know what to get for eye protection so if I could get some help on that, that would be awesome!

Thanks for reading!
 





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Since you are purchasing from the Survival Lasers USA site and not the international site I assume you're in the US. Please fill in your profile with more info, including your location and more people will answer when you ask a question. You should also post in the Welcome area and tell us a little about yourself.

That is the wrong batteries and charger, you would get very short run time and not full power. We don't use the 3V in lasers, you need the 3.7V that charge to 4.2V. Get two 16340 and don't buy the generic blue ones with no brand name, and Ultrafire are also not very good.

If you use that driver then you also need a 16.8mm battery contact board.

That's strange, the Survival Laser site is down at the moment so I can't give you links to what I recommend. Anyway your parts will work fine. You will need a G2 lens if you want 2W out of that thing, but a 3 element is ok too. See what I did here for one example of how you could build it:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f65/assembled-m140-c6-pic-heavy-83543.html except don't buy those kind of batteries.
See the white links in my signature for other examples of easy to build lasers. There are a couple of good videos on YouTube of how to assemble a laser in a C6, I recommend watching them because something often goes wrong on your first build.

Good luck and welcome to LPF. Be sure to post photos when you get it working.

Alan
 
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Hi crazy spaz is correct. The host your using for the M140/2W/445nm diode needs a copper sink. If you use DTR's diode and driver module not much room in the back. If you have to cut any leads cut the contact board leads. This way in the future if you want to swap the diode you'll have longer leads left to play with. It's easier to resolver leads to the contact board. For that diode you will be using 2-18650's in series and a extended battery tube. Copper sink for longer duty time this diode will give you 2.200 to 2.300 mw no problem. It's a very efficient diode. The aluminum host dissipate heat better than stainless steel by far.
 
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Okay so from what I am getting, everything is good to go and will be pretty efficient and long lasting if I get the copper heat sink( if you could link me to the best one for this project that would be awesome), and for this driver I need a contact board(which I also need a link to buy).

Also Lifetime has pointed out that the batteries will be going in an extended slot, does that mean I need a new host if so which one.

Now I still have a couple questions, how does the contact board get soldered to the driver and the driver to the diode..

How much output do you think my current build will get me

How long is this laser going to last longterm? And how long should I keep it on for max before giving it a break(how long of a break).

Can you link me to a battery and charger?

Thank you so much for your responses this is an awesome community!
 
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Ill try and answer some of these for ya.
Heres a link to a badass copper heatsink!
http://www.survivallaserusa.com/Extended_and_Tapered_Copper_Heat_Sink/p1667092_7862094.aspx
If you want to run two 18650's for longer run time you will need the battery extension
Battery Extension Tube- Black Anodized Aluminum
The contact board to driver will be two wires coming off the board that go to driver input. Then two wires from the driver to the diode.
Survival Laser Driver
Ive had my S4 build for quite awhile and hasn't died yet. I keep the duty cycle to under 60 seconds.
Its hard to say on the output. That will depend on the driver setting and optics.
 
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A copper heat sink isn't exactly "required" but with that much power the aluminum heat sink is going to heat up very fast. this lowers your duty cycle run times.
The extended focus ring isn't required either. Its just nice to have, so you burn your fingers less. It can also act as a very small additional heatsink.
For the batteries there are a lot of options. Good batteries are always nice to have.
Heres just one link
2 New Panasonic NCR18650B Li ion Battery 3400mAh 3 7V 18650 Japan | eBay
 
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What host are you using? You say above "and this for my new host" but you link a second time to the driver & pill module.

The batteries linked above will not work, they are flat top, you must use button top. The extension tube is optional, without it you will use two 16340, with it you use two 18650, it will make a big difference in the size of your laser and the run time of your batteries. I buy all my batteries either here: Illumn.com - Flashlights, Batteries, Carry Gear, Intelligent LED Lighting, and More! or on Amazon. If you want a real good charger I recommend this one: Efest LUC V4 Charger - Chargers - Batteries, Chargers, and PowerPax Carriers

If using the driver & pill module you linked to, then use this heat sink: Copper Heat Sink or this one: Unanodized Aluminum Heat Sink you won't have room for a full length 30mm DTR module, you will just unscrew and remove the rear (aluminum) part of the DTR module. There will be limited room for your wires, but enough room.

I like very much their extended focus ring: Extended Length Focusing Ring - Blue Anodized and I prefer their external lens spring: External Lens Spring but these are both optional. Please avoid any contact with the beam, even your fingers. Be sure to get 1 or two of these: Silicone Lens Cap and keep your lens covered when not in use, too many people get dust or some thing on the lens and it gets burned onto the lens and can't be cleaned and then they need a new lens, also avoid burning anything too close to the lens.

If you stay with the 3 element lens the power output will likely be about 1.8W, you will have some spray on two sides of the dot in a pattern like this (.) this is normal there is nothing wrong.

Alan
 

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Alright awesome, I will check on all those items, and also here is the new host I was planning to use.. It would work right?

DIY S4? Host Assembly, Unmarked

Im planning on selecting the option for the unanodized aluminum heat sink, and drilled pill, not that I would need it anyways cause I am getting a pill with the driver already

Also this is probably going to be my only build, so I don't want to buy a very expensive pair of safety glasses? Anyone know a safe and cheap option( I am not going to be an idiot with the laser)
 
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Alright awesome, I will check on all those items, and also here is the new host I was planning to use.. It would work right?

DIY S4? Host Assembly, Unmarked

Im planning on selecting the option for the unanodized aluminum heat sink, and drilled pill, not that I would need it anyways cause I am getting a pill with the driver already

Also this is probably going to be my only build, so I don't want to buy a very expensive pair of safety glasses? Anyone know a safe and cheap option( I am not going to be an idiot with the laser)

Yes that host will work fine. I see that link is to their international site, so I ask again what country are you in?

I doubt it will be your only build, you can expect more lasers and less money for years to come or you would be an anomaly. Once you see a laser with a visible beam you can never unsee it and forget.

Not real laser safety glasses but works for UV, violet, blue:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop

These are also good:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Protectio...sim_469_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XDRGHHZJ699VW3A6CPG

Those are the only cheap ones I can recommend, but at the power level we're talking about you should have something better when you can afford it. They will protect you when viewing the dot up close or when burning stuff but am not sure how far I trust them to protect from a direct hit at that power.

Alan
 
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Yep hes right on that batts. I was just going for a quick link to see the brand.. my bad. You could use those but you would have to add a spring or a solder blob on the contact board. But that would be for a single cell.
 
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Hi,
A C6 SL is a basic build every one here said it all, 1.8mA driver in the pill it eliminates the need for a contact board just a solder blob on the batteries or spring on the driver. Exstetion tube 2-18650's , copper sink, with that driver you'll have more room in the sink for the diode. And you can heat sink the driver IC with the open pill. Copper over aluminum hands down, small host powerful diode lots of heat. Panasonic batteries are awesome cells.
 

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Also this is a bit off topic, but can someone link me to some cheap green lasers online that could burn a bit and be pointed into the night sky clearly to point at stars and stuff. Also thank you all for your help I'm going to start this build this week and will try to make a little how to on it for newbies like me :)
 

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Cheap and burning don't go together with 532nm's. 100mW's with decent quality aren't going to get much cheaper than 80-100$
 

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Hey so I fell into a bit of a financial trouble so I can't get the parts I was hoping to get.

I am hoping to replace the host with this,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060304GQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

And I am going to keep the driver and heat sink I mentioned in the comments above.

Last point of concern, this host as a port to charge, and can charge a 18650. But is the given 18650 going to work with this driver

Survival Laser Driver

that is set at 1.8 amps

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P.S. Is this a legit product? Will I actually be able to point at stars and stuff
5 Miles Range 532nm Green Laser Pointer Light Pen Visible Beam High Power Lazer | eBay

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Once again you are all the best :D
 




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