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FrozenGate by Avery

My new 445 - Aurora C6 Host!

Jollyrajer73

Jollyrajer73

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My new 1.62A 445nm - Aurora C6 host! :drool:

Last week I ordered a M140 445nm LD in an Aixiz module housing with a 405 g-2 lens from DTR, then ordered one of Mohrenberg's awesome Aurora C6 "just add diode" kits, and finally two AW IMR 16340's! Last night I received everything I ordered and with some help of a few members its done! This is truly a great laser!

Here are the final pictures:

The Aurora C6 itself is one of the smaller hosts Ive personally seen but I really like it!
16abpc3.jpg


Pretty beam :)
2qxoz89.jpg


2e3bhh1.jpg


2emj33q.jpg


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I think that for a Total cost of $150!!! Not bad at all! :san:
It was $135 for the laser itself then $15 for the batteries. After shipping costs it was 161.34.

Thanks for taking a look! :beer:
 
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Thanks for the comments everyone! :san:

It was much easier to build then I had anticipated! I'd like thank DTR and Moh for being so helpful! I wanted to be sure I was following all the steps correctly and was able to thanks to the both of you. :beer:


what should be a standard duty cycle for this? Its heatsink isnt very large so I'd like to stay on the safe side and have it live for some time.
:thinking:
 
Good build. I love the C6 host. Very versatile and good looking host. :D
 
for me personally, i just turn the lasers off when i start to feel it get warm.

is the 405-g-2 lens about the same as the g-1 in terms of price?
My calculations always came out to around ~$90 for a person to finish their build, but that was with an aixiz glass lens.
 
Looks good.:) Glad you got it up and running.:beer:

Nice camera by the way. Kind.?
 
Mohrenberg said:
for me personally, i just turn the lasers off when i start to feel it get warm.

is the 405-g-2 lens about the same as the g-1 in terms of price?
My calculations always came out to around ~$90 for a person to finish their build, but that was with an aixiz glass lens.
Click to expand...

Preferably, one should turn off their CW laser (at 1 watt) at around 2 minutes of operation, as at ambient room temperature, the laser heats up to ~130 F in 2 minutes...

With the increasing power, the efficiency also goes down, so at 1.8 watts, 1 minute of operation should be enough time to burn, without causing irreparable diode damage... in my opinion and calculations in my Efficiency thread in my siggy.
 
I actually dont know for sure I think its cheaper actually :)


Mohrenberg said:
for me personally, i just turn the lasers off when i start to feel it get warm.

is the 405-g-2 lens about the same as the g-1 in terms of price?
My calculations always came out to around ~$90 for a person to finish their build, but that was with an aixiz glass lens.
Click to expand...
 
Expecting my C6 kit any day now.

Did you just have to solder the driver leads to the diode leads? Did you shorten any of them first or just tuck them inside?

What about the white case pin lead on the diode did you just have to do anything with it?

Any precautions you had to take whilst working on it - ESD etc. ?

Oh and batteries are they + end in first just like normal.

I just like to be careful. Cant afford to be killing $50 diodes if I can help it.

Thanks
 
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405 g2 is 45 bucks from DTR do that would up your estimation to around 135 :) Still pretty good!
 
geeo said:
Expecting my C6 kit any day now.

Did you just have to solder the driver leads to the diode leads? Did you shorten any of them first or just tuck them inside?

What about the white case pin lead on the diode did you just have to do anything with it?

Any precautions you had to take whilst working on it - ESD etc. ?

Oh and batteries are they + end in first just like normal.

I just like to be careful. Cant afford to be killing $50 diodes if I can help it.

Thanks
Click to expand...

I get my c6 host this week to :wave: from Garoq. But the host is negative (Just like if it is in flashlight state). I got my diode from flaminpyro wich soldered the negative and positive together by default to avoid static electricity for example in shipping. I just have to desolder them and then solder them back to the driver.

As far as i know you dont need to use the case pin. You only use that if there is no other way of grounding your driver. correct me if im wrong :)

greetings,,

EDIT: One tip before actually soldering you diode make just you touched something grounded with your hands to avoid killing the diode with static electricity
 
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geeo said:
Expecting my C6 kit any day now.

Did you just have to solder the driver leads to the diode leads? Did you shorten any of them first or just tuck them inside?

What about the white case pin lead on the diode did you just have to do anything with it?

Any precautions you had to take whilst working on it - ESD etc. ?

Oh and batteries are they + end in first just like normal.

I just like to be careful. Cant afford to be killing $50 diodes if I can help it.

Thanks
Click to expand...

you'll want to trim them down a little. I leave them a little long.

You don't have to use the case pin, the ground is already obtained from the pill and driver.

ESD precautions are always idea, although i've never had any trouble with ESD.

Batteries go in + side first. With the - end facing the tailcap switch. You'll want to get two AW IMR 16340 batteries for best results.
 
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