My Monster 6+ watt Laser Build Has Started !

The 3X should come with the little adaptors, BUT ASK FOR IT TO BE SURE, I think I paid 7 dollars each for some spares. I also drill out the center just a little bit extra.

Just screw youre 3 element into it then screw that into your laser and set your focal distance and shim it so it stays there, you can loosen your set screw and push your 12mm module back into your host so it holds the focus, then simply tighten your set screw and screw in the expander.

YES these diodes make waste heat, that big chunk gets warm in 5 minutes during the summer and 8 minutes in the winter, and you MUST have laser safety glasses, these lasers can burn a hole in your retina faster than you can blink, sorry to harp on safety but I do it for anyone else reading because it's so very important. Blue light is much brighter than it looks as only some 2% of our receptors can see it if I recall correctly.

Accutronitis said:

Oh wow I can hardly wait ! I wish I didn't have to wait until the end of the month to order my diode module but at least by then i'll have everything done with my host and when I get it i'll be burning that day !

That beam expander is smaller than most I've seen and that's a good thing ! Do I need to get the M9*0.5 adapter to screw it onto the lens ?

That's some extended runtime beater for sure, Does it ever get warm ?

Click to expand...

You need the adapter if the lens you're going to use is from DTR.

And yes as redcowboy says you need to not even look at the reflection it makes for that can also turn the white of your eye dark red forever or worse blind you. always use those safety glasses

p.s. The M9 x 0.5 designation just means a 9mm lens housing/sleeve with 0.5 pitch threads, that's what our 3 element lenses are housed in, if you want to use an expander with a NUBM06 diode without removing the GBall you can just use a flat screwdriver to take the 3 element lenses out and use the M9 threaded sleeve to connect the adaptor, but with the NUBM44 you want to use the 3 element with lenses intact.

BTW I know this thread is about a NUBM44, but the NUBM06 gets a nice boost in useful burning distance by adding a 3X expander and you don't have to remove the GBall and lose the protection.

What's the deal with original host battery that you posted. All in curiousity?

GSS said:

What's the deal with original host battery that you posted. All in curiousity?

Click to expand...

What do you mean ?



I have two of these coming. Basen IMR 26650 4500mAh 60A

The Basen 26650 is it's a very short 26650. We measure lengths of 66.2-66.5mm, whereas many 26650's are significantly longer. That means they can fit better into tight spaces.

• Size: 26650 (26.05mm diameter x 64.4mm long)
•Type: Li-Mn IMR (Rechargeable)
• Rated Capacity: 4500mAh
•Max Discharge Current (Continuous): 40A
•Max Discharge Current (Pulse): 60A
•Voltage: 3.7V
•Protected: No
•Style: Flat Top
•Weight: 100g
•Color: Black/Gold
•Rated storage temperature: 20-60 C



And one of these chargers is coming with the batteies


Nitecore SC2 Superb Charger 2-bay Digital Lithium Ion Battery Charger

A high quality 2 bay battery charger that can charge batteries ultra quick at a whopping 3A! But you don't have to, you can also maximize battery longevity by charging slower. And it's great for that as well. You can also use it's 2.1A USB port to charge your phone or other electronics.

Be careful, this charger can charge so fast that you should probably check whether your batteries can handle charging this fast. Most INR/IMR chemistry batteries can handle 3A although if it's done frequently you will probably wear them out a bit quicker.

NO BATTERIES INCLUDED
•Great 18650 battery charger that is also compatible with the following IMR/Li-ion/LifePO4 sizes: 10340, 10350, 10440, 10500, 12340, 12500, 12650, 13450, 13500, 13650, 14350, 14430, 14500, 14650, 16500, 16340(RCR123), 16650, 17350, 17500, 17650, 17670, 18350, 18490, 18500,18650,18700, 20700, 21700, 22500, 22650, 25500, 26500, 26650
•Also compatible with Ni-mh and Ni-Cd in AA/AAA/AAAA/C sizes
•Input: AC 100-240V 50/60 Hz 0.9A max OR DC 12V 2.5A
•Cords included: AC wall plug
•Battery Charging Output Voltage: 4.35V +/-1% / 4.2V +/- 1% / 3.7V +/- 1% / 1.48V +/- 1%
•Battery Charging Output Current: Selectable 0.5A/1A/2A/3A per channel. 5A maximum total.
•USB port Output: 5V 2.1A

The host is done, I'm sure the wire is more that heavy enough, I've had car's that didn't have battery cables this heavy !!!

I should of been clearer, not the 26650's which are sure beefy but the original light host battery. Just curious on its numbers?

By the way, do you think those wires will flex easy enough for fitting the diode?

Accutronitis said:

What do you mean ?
I have two of these coming. Basen IMR 26650 4500mAh 60A

The Basen 26650 is it's a very short 26650. We measure lengths of 66.2-66.5mm, whereas many 26650's are significantly longer. That means they can fit better into tight spaces.

• Size: 26650 (26.05mm diameter x 64.4mm long)
•Type: Li-Mn IMR (Rechargeable)
• Rated Capacity: 4500mAh
•Max Discharge Current (Continuous): 40A
•Max Discharge Current (Pulse): 60A
•Voltage: 3.7V
•Protected: No
•Style: Flat Top
•Weight: 100g
•Color: Black/Gold
•Rated storage temperature: 20-60 C

Click to expand...

If you are using 2 of those flat top batteries instead of one flat top and one button top battery in the host you will need a way to connect the two batteries + to -, a small disk magnet works well flat tops ordinarily will not make a connection one to the other

GSS said:

I should of been clearer, not the 26650's which are sure beefy but the original light host battery. Just curious on its numbers?

By the way, do you think those wires will flex easy enough for fitting the diode?

Click to expand...

That battery was the height of battery tech of the day when I bought the flashlight, That's why I don't mind using that flashlight as a laser host, Before "Streamlight" went LED and then Li-Ion they use to use incandescent light bulbs and with those bulbs and the Ni-Cd batteries you'd be lucky if you got 15 minutes of bright light out of them before you had to grab the 2nd one you already had on the charging base or you grabbed the 3rd battery that was also on the charging base, It was a pain in the a$$ but that was all there was......

The wires I used on my host are extremely flexible silicon jacketed fine braded 99.9% pure copper wire I use to use on R/C cars and more recently R/C helis, It's super flexible and can handle way more amps than any laser diode that I may one day own, That wire is rated at something like 25 to 30 amps ! When it comes to battery packs and current I like to error on the side of overkill.

My host is ready for whatever laser diode I through at it ! :lasergun:

Encap said:

If you are using 2 of those flat top batteries instead of one flat top and one button top battery in the host you will need a way to connect the two batteries + to -, a small disk magnet works well flat tops ordinarily will not make a connection one to the other

Click to expand...

With batteries that won't make a connection I just put a little bit of solder on the positive terminal and run that over some sandpaper a few times and never look back, My host has a heavy spring pushing from both ends to maintain a solid connection all the way through..... There will be no power meltdowns from inadequate wire gage, cold solder joints, or lose connections on my watch ! lol

That wire is way way way too much. Good luck getting the driver wired to it. Wait till you see how small the solder tabs are and how tight the components are around them.

dden4012 said:

That wire is way way way too much. Good luck getting the driver wired to it. Wait till you see how small the solder tabs are and how tight the components are around them.

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For me that's no problem, You should have seen some of the high current power connections I had to make in high level R/C car racing !

If need be i'll just neck it down and then pot it to secure the connection, There is always a way but i'll have to wait until I have the laser module in hand to deside how i'll approach it. :beer:

I use 22guage wire and even that's hard to get around sometimes. That looks like a pain in the ass, no need for the massive wires IMO. What size wire are you using?

Oh well, using too thick wires is much more easily dealth with than using too thin ones in this kind of situation.

You might find yourself having to solder very thick wire onto small solder pads, but you can make sort of a cone shape and the end of them and solder that way, perhaps putting on some hotmelt glue for mechanical protection.

Accutronitis said:

For me that's no problem, You should have seen some of the high current power connections I had to make in high level R/C car racing !

If need be i'll just neck it down and then pot it to secure the connection, There is always a way but i'll have to wait until I have the laser module in hand to deside how i'll approach it. :beer:

Click to expand...

ElectricPlasma said:

I use 22guage wire and even that's hard to get around sometimes. That looks like a pain in the ass, no need for the massive wires IMO. What size wire are you using?

Click to expand...

We aren't trying to bust your balls. That looks like 16ga wire. Here is the scale of what your going to be soldering.

Jst connectors are great for hosts with enough room.

ElectricPlasma said:

I use 22guage wire and even that's hard to get around sometimes. That looks like a pain in the ass, no need for the massive wires IMO. What size wire are you using?

Click to expand...

I'm not sure, I took it off a old R/C car Ni-Cd battery pack, That battery tech is ancient but the wire is some of the best !

Benm said:

Oh well, using too thick wires is much more easily dealth with than using too thin ones in this kind of situation.

You might find yourself having to solder very thick wire onto small solder pads, but you can make sort of a cone shape and the end of them and solder that way, perhaps putting on some hotmelt glue for mechanical protection.

Click to expand...

Oh ya, I've been there, Done that many times ! The "cone shape" is what I was talking about when I said "neck it down" which is the same thought but just a different way to express it. Save thing with "hotmelt glue for mechanical protection" and me saying "pot it" which again is the same thought but just a different way to express it. lol

dden4012 said:

We aren't trying to bust your balls. That looks like 16ga wire. Here is the scale of what your going to be soldering.
Jst connectors are great for hosts with enough room.

Click to expand...

I understand what your saying and what the task at hand is, Please understand that I have a stereo microscope with a micro tip soldering station right next to it plus I have 30 years experience of soldering everything from 200 amp alternators with a 1.5KW HotSpot and carbon probe on the high end, And down to soldering work on Bulova Accutron 214 movement coil assys used in Bulova watches from the 60's.....

Please believe me when I say I Can Handle it... Because I can.......

If you are buying the 25mm module with driver and lens installed and pre-wired from DTR as in the images in you original post/#1 post then all you have to do is connect your wire ends to the pre-wired driver wire ends and put a ittle heat shrink tubing or tape over the junction.

You can adjust the length to fit the situation