Merged 445nm Pictures and Video Thread

[daguin]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Exactly...and only 750mA should be flowing through the diode, correct?

Remember, the flex and the boost both use additional current to produce the needed voltage boost.

Peace,
dave

 

[mfo]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

This is fine for V5 FlexDrives, but remember that if you use the new Micro Boost driver, not to let the diode case (negaitve), go to to the driver output like you can do with FlexDrives...

Because with FlexDrives, both input and output negatives on the driver are continuous. (one and the same)

But this is not the case with a Micro Boost...

(just to warn those why didn't realize that)

Didn't know that, thanks Jay. So what you're saying is my diagram will work (as it has) just make sure I isolate the case from the negative output for the driver?

Remember, the flex and the boost both use additional current to produce the needed voltage boost.

Peace,
dave

I get that 100%, which is why he's experiencing a 1.5A draw from the battery itself. But, if the driver only lets 750mA of that current out and into the diode, then doesn't that mean that 750mA goes into diode, 750mA exits the diode, flows down the host, through the switch and into the negative end of the battery? :thinking:

 

[jayrob]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Didn't know that, thanks Jay. So what you're saying is my diagram will work (as it has) just make sure I isolate the case from the negative output for the driver?



I get that 100%, which is why he's experiencing a 1.5A draw from the battery itself. But, if the driver only lets 750mA of that current out and into the diode, then doesn't that mean that 750mA goes into diode, 750mA exits the diode, flows down the host, through the switch and into the negative end of the battery? :thinking:

Like this:

Also, you cannot use a Micro Boost Drive with a red diode in a case negative set up unless you isolate the heatsink from the host. But besides that, it's a boost only driver...

 

[MarioMaster]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Thanks for the heads up on the micro-boost driver. But yeah, think of the driver itself as the only load. It draws 1.5 amps though both the negative and positive inputs. The positive comes directly from the battery and the negative goes through the host and the clicky switches,

 

[jayrob]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Remember, the flex and the boost both use additional current to produce the needed voltage boost.

Peace,
dave

Watch out for this with your Kryton build Dave. (if you plan on using a Micro Boost Drive) You will not want to get the negative from the diode case pin to the driver negative output like we normaly do with Kryton/FlexDrive builds...

However, you could use the diode case pin and wire it (just the case pin only) to the driver negative input... This will work! (with blu-ray/Micro Boost builds - and I'm assuming these new 445 diodes have a case pin like other diodes do)

 

[Cheech]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

From Uranium:
The IRF740 would work just fine for that. Remember though, mosfets will instantly burn out if they are subjected to high voltage or reverse voltage.

Myself:
A over 1 watt button can be made easily.
Maybe a machinist can adapt the size of the mosfet into a clicky switch..cough.. Rob... Or side by side with the driver... Or double sided DDL driver.
otherwise I am purchasing a lathe within in the next month.

Someone tell me if this diagram is wrong because it's 3:02 int the morning saturday, and I've already drank 3 pitchers to the head. Really no fool'n.

I have really come to enjoy this forum, and am willing to contribute my electrical an MacGuiver knowhow to further expand this hobby into...

 

[Cheech]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Add a rectifying diode between the battery and the mosfet.

 

[daguin]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Watch out for this with your Kryton build Dave. (if you plan on using a Micro Boost Drive) You will not want to get the negative from the diode case pin to the driver negative output like we normaly do with Kryton/FlexDrive builds...

However, you could use the diode case pin and wire it (just the case pin only) to the driver negative input... This will work! (with blu-ray/Micro Boost builds - and I'm assuming these new 445 diodes have a case pin like other diodes do)

Thanks, Jay. I have already been building with the boost.

The 445nm diodes have a case pin. However, the ones I have seen have the case pin clipped. There is still enough of a "stub" to solder the negative wire to though.

I get that 100%, which is why he's experiencing a 1.5A draw from the battery itself. But, if the driver only lets 750mA of that current out and into the diode, then doesn't that mean that 750mA goes into diode, 750mA exits the diode, flows down the host, through the switch and into the negative end of the battery?

Not ALL of the current goes through the diode. The negative is either continuous with the case (like the flex with "jumped" case/negative pins) or the negative input is "jumped" from the negative input on the driver to the case (like the boost with the diode floating). The driver only allows the controlled amount of current through the diode, but it is allowing the full current drawn through the host and the switch. There is always the full current at the driver input side (through the host and switch) that the driver needs to produce the current and voltage needed at the driver output side.

Not all of the current goes straight through the driver into the diode and back out again. It is not a direct, isolated "pipe" into the driver then into the diode and then back out through the driver. There are "side connections" and "short cuts" on the driver through which the current needed to operate the driver and produce the voltage flows.

Look at this simple DDL linear driver

See all of those "short cuts" and "side connections"? The easiest to see and understand are the capacitor and the 1N4001 diode. Current is flowing through them as well. It is not ALL going through the diode.

Not only are there these types of "short cuts" in the boost driver, but some of the components are also taking part of the current and converting it to voltage.

The current through the switch is higher than the current going through the diode


Peace,
dave

 

[robjdixon]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Hey MM,
This driver appears to be a similar size, and looks a bit more heavy duty. It might work for you:
http://kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1710

 

[Prototype]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Try McClicky switches. They're a bit large, and cost $10 each :wtf: from lighthound though.

http://www.lighthound.com/McGizmo-McClicky-Switch-Module-with-rubber-boot_p_1232.html

 

[jayrob]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Thanks, Jay. I have already been building with the boost.

The 445nm diodes have a case pin. However, the ones I have seen have the case pin clipped. There is still enough of a "stub" to solder the negative wire to though.

Peace,
dave

Just to clarify, I hope it didn't sound like I was trying to 'school you'...

It was something that I did not think about yet, and mainly wanted to explain it for others to understand. But we had mentioned your up coming Kryton build is all.

I figured for sure you've been using the Micro BoostDrive, but I remember that with Kryton builds, the driver gets soldered directly to the diode, and the way I used to build them, I'd get the negative to the FlexDrive by soldering the case pin to the negative pin.

So then I realized hey... that won't work with a Micro Boost... And in thinking about it, I realized that you could still do it if you soldered a small wire from the diode case pin, to the negative input side of the driver.

Anyway, that's just me thinking out loud because with 99% of all of my builds, I get the negative from the pill/host. So I never thought about what to do in a Kryton type build using the Micro BoostDrive (where the driver is directly soldered to the diode pins) until just then...

 

[hakzaw1]

Re: 445nm "sled" pics

I talked to AixiZ last night--

the acrylic lens would be toast in no time--

He said the 405nm AixiZ glass will be fine for the 445nm- PM me if anyone wants a blank module(with stock lens , a AixiZ glass 405 lens and a bare w/ ribbon 445nm diode w/ stock lens for 65$ shipped to USA--starting a list to see if I want to do this. Need 10 more 'wanters'--Hak

..............


update EDIT- for just the AixiZ AR 405nm glass lens- 11$ shipped-- add a blank housing module $2.25 more.Note I cannot sell any 445nm diodes to anyone who does not own proper eye protection and does not have a good understanding of the hazards involved with these.--sorry

 

[f22warzone]

Re: 445nm "sled" pics

So who is going to be the first one to collimate all 24x of these 1W beast and make one heck of a laser? Even if we turned each one down to .5W for heat and lost a few mw from lenses I bet we could get 8W of blue : ) I know I would drop down 1.5k for such a system : )

 

[mfo]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Dang, this is going to make things a pain in the rear

I definitely can't get away with using a flexdrive using an 18650, right? Too much current for the flex to handle...

Edit:

I was looking at the flexdrive manual and looking at the formula.

(Vout (Volts) * Iout (Amps) ) / Vin (Volts) < 1.2

The only part I don't understand is the end of the formula, < 1.2

I plugged the settings I'd use for this diode into the formula, and came up with this.

(4.2) * (.750) / (4.2) =.75

So, does this mean it would work with a 4.2V Li-Ion since my answe is .74, which is less than 1.2? :thinking:

@Dave, now it makes perfect sense, I totally forgot about the shortcuts lol. Also, thanks Mario & Jay.

Double Edit:

If this is the case, then we can definitely power this thing with a decent capacity Li-Ion such as the 18650. Once it drops down to about 3 volts, that's when problems will arise I guess? What would happen? Would it just cut power to the diode? Would it kill the diode? Would the driver just generate an insane amount of heat?

 

[Hemlock_Mike]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

Second try -----

That "DDL" driver shown above is a constant voltage regulator. There is no feedback from a low ohm resistor in the current feed to the adj input. Also, DDL did not design the "DDL" driver. The circuit was published Loooong ago by National Semicinductors.

HMike

 

[JellyCrab]

Re: Mario's class IV 445nm Kryton + projector pics

maybe?
DealExtreme: $4.30 16mm 101F Gold Plated Clicky Switch for Flashlights (10-Pack)

no specs, but at that price, it's worth a try.