Lazerer Rifle Repair Help

Hey LPF, hope everyone is doing well. Today I have a small problem.

I own a Lazerer Rifle 1.5W model, and I have accidentally disconnected a wire in the innards. Connecting the battery compartment to the diode. It needs to be re-soldered. Here are a few pictures of what I am talking about:










I am familiar with soldering irons and the trade of soldering, but have never "operated" on a laser before. I also see that there is not really alot of contact space to solder to due to the coolant/sealant on the diode. I was hoping I could get some opinions from the experienced member base on what I should do/how I should go about fixing this.

I'm wanting to get this laser back up and operational, need it for summer!! I would be willing to send to a builder (blord, flaminpyro, etc) or a professional for repair if the process is overly complicated.

Any and all help is appreciated!! Need to get this repaired.

EDIT: I am also looking into purchasing a medium-high power 532nm, if anyone is in a reasonable selling market.

How did this even happen!

awillis2589 said:

How did this even happen!

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I was removing a lens filter and the diode section was not fully secured and tightened, it unscrewed and and as soon as it did, the wire came off.

bummer, I made a similar mistake with my spartan, I ended up sending it back to DL in China. If you cant solder it yourself, maybe a local electronics repair place could help you. I have a rifle also, let me warn you about something else. never clean your lens with rubbing alcohol. I did this and had to replace the lens, which is thankfully cheap and easy to do on the rifle. I love the effects caps for the rifle. I am guessing you got these with yours as well? cant wait to take it camping well away from civilization, and airplanes

This happened to my rifle as well, only mine also had insufficient gauge wire which overheated under the current draw. I scraped away the sealant and soldered to the target pad. It was tough especially since I was never able to fully disassemble the damn host.

Regarding your green laser inquiry; I will be selling my high power green soon. I don't have a price yet, so pm if you're interested and ill know to speed up the process.

Shakenawake said:

bummer, I made a similar mistake with my spartan, I ended up sending it back to DL in China. If you cant solder it yourself, maybe a local electronics repair place could help you. I have a rifle also, let me warn you about something else. never clean your lens with rubbing alcohol. I did this and had to replace the lens, which is thankfully cheap and easy to do on the rifle. I love the effects caps for the rifle. I am guessing you got these with yours as well? cant wait to take it camping well away from civilization, and airplanes

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Hmm, I could fool around with it. Guess it is time to dust off the workshop table. Do you have a link to where you replaced the lens? I've cleaned it multiple times, and which is why I have minor divergence issues with it. Nothing too bad, but a new lens would be optimal...If I can get it operational.
Yes I have all the lenses, and believe me I've had this thing out all over the place, people are amazed with this thing. Which is why I need to fix it...been telling people about it and not being able to SHOW!! Lol

Sigurthr said:

This happened to my rifle as well, only mine also had insufficient gauge wire which overheated under the current draw. I scraped away the sealant and soldered to the target pad. It was tough especially since I was never able to fully disassemble the damn host.

Regarding your green laser inquiry; I will be selling my high power green soon. I don't have a price yet, so pm if you're interested and ill know to speed up the process.

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Yes it seems like a very fragile connection; but if the recommendation is to fool with it, I'm sure I can get it reconnected, but if it comes off again, it would be done for.

What model/output greenie?

Its the S*KYlasers 170mW focusable handheld with all the safety interlocks. I'll have to LPM it again soon since I can't remember if it was 130mW green + 40mW ir, or 170mW green + 40mW ir.

I just sold my 700mW jetlasers 532nm. but I wanted and got 500 dollars for it so maybe it was out of your range anyway. Here are the links to two places I know of to get replacement lenses.
www.rayfoss.com
445nm AR Coated Standard Glass Lens Assembly
It's super easy to replace, just unscrew the focus piece all the way off. that little screwed in lens on the other side unscrews, then screw in your new one

Just looking into the guts of these, did you kinda get the feeling they are put together crappy? I got that impression, but one data point isnt enough to postulate a theory

Shakenawake said:

I just sold my 700mW jetlasers 532nm. but I wanted and got 500 dollars for it so maybe it was out of your range anyway. Here are the links to two places I know of to get replacement lenses.
www.rayfoss.com
445nm AR Coated Standard Glass Lens Assembly
It's super easy to replace, just unscrew the focus piece all the way off. that little screwed in lens on the other side unscrews, then screw in your new one

Just looking into the guts of these, did you kinda get the feeling they are put together crappy? I got that impression, but one data point isnt enough to postulate a theory

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I couldn't justify spending that much, even for a 700mw. Thanks for the links, I'll have to check out new lenses once I get this thing working. Raining hard where I am today, so I think I'm going to fool around with it.

You know, I really didn't. The Rifle host is a solid build out of good material, but the inside is a different story. I feel as if the outside is durable, but the inside is very fragile. As I said earlier, I have never done any work on lasers, but I am experienced in microelectronic work, and when you are soldering using that gauge of wire, you make sure your connection is solid and does not have much play in it - you do not want your work shorting out just because you moved it somewhere.

I agree with you though, one point isn't enough to give an accurate opinion on the entire device. I will fool around with it today, since that seems to be my best option, and report back.

I have an update, with some more photos.

I have attempted to remove the thermal compound around the connection point, and now the point is fully exposed and accessible (pretty sure it's the right one ). I have soldered the wire back to this contact point, and two fully charged batteries are in the device...still no power.

Here are a couple photos:

Here you can see the contact pad is exposed and has been tinned.


Here is the connection made, wire to driver.


Here is a magnified view of the driver and the contact pad. It's a little blurry, so focus hard and you can see the pad.


Some better photos:







I can provide more photos if needed, but I am at a dead end here. I've removed paste, cleaned the wire and pad (with flux), resoldered and have made a good connection, and the device still does not power on. Like I said before, I have never messed with lasers and don't know the full range of possibilites, but I don't have a clue as to why this Rifle is not powering on.

Any help would be appreciated!! Still open to having an LPF builder repair this for a price.

Update:

I'm a dumbass; screwed it back together and it works perfectly.

Turns out lasers are on an equal or less than scale to the difficulty of microelectronic work - might have to build me one soon if that is the case.

Pumped to have this back in action! My 2.4W M140 will have a nice playmate.

Moderator, feel free to close or let die.

glad i could help :beer: keep us updated if anything else comes up

Haha, my first thought when you said it was still not working was "did you remember to screw it back together or jumper the case connection?". Nice going.

Sigurthr said:

Haha, my first thought when you said it was still not working was "did you remember to screw it back together or jumper the case connection?". Nice going.

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Lol! I don't know why I didn't think of it when I was first doing the repair; I guess I was too worked up and wanted it to just work. It's been a couple years since I've done any work like this, so it just slipped my mind.