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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

help neded

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Feb 12, 2014
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Hi to everybody, first of all i have to thank you guys for the good work providing information on any level for lasers ,and since my first baby died by excess heat after some (?12/15?) hours of continues operation (i forgot it on :yabbem: ) now i am thinking to take one of tose great 445 M140 +CU module from DTR's ebay shop and since i do not want to make mistakes this time i will shot some stupid noob questions....
well mi list of objects that next week i will get is:

1.5-2W 445nm Blue Diode in Module W/Leads & Aixiz Glass ( :D i think that if DTR looks upon his site stats he can see that there is a user online since 1 week ago and will be so,until the M140 will arive to my home :crackup: :D )

12X30mm aluminum mount for AixiZ 12X30mm units

and of course a driver, since this time, whit a serius LD like an M140 i do not want to risk blowing it for stupid mistakes

this is the driver i am planning to use

so,now the questions :)

the aluminium mount that i buyed how much (roughly) time of continuos operation can give out of a M140 driven at 1300mA without damaging the laser?

it is better an active cooling system at that power or maybe only a passive tipe for the LD?

@DTR, there is a post were you put a lot of photos of the diode been pushed to max (from tot mA to a max of (?) i do not remember) can you please link me that post,i cannot find it ?

i am trying (nearly finished) to make a CNC laser cutter/engraver using an arduino and pololu drivers, but since my GRBL goes on a max feed of 100mm/m i think the laser may overheat very quikly and burn before finishing the design. any help will be very apreciated

waiting til tomorrow to get the camera so i can post some picture of the cnc and a custom invented heatsink that maybe can do its job :) whit a antisplash
focusing ring on it, since i read a post here on LPF that talks about a litle splash effect on the aixiz glass lensens.

thank you and please excuse my bad english :yabbem:
 





ARG

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First thought: Why did Blord change his signature?

the aluminium mount that i buyed how much (roughly) time of continuos operation can give out of a M140 driven at 1300mA without damaging the laser?

Appx 5 seconds. Those are holders, not heat sinks. They have a giant 0.5mm (appx) gap between the module and the aluminium which makes them downright rubbish for high power laser diodes. The contact between the module and the holder is very poor. Would not recommend. Ever.

Just look at this gap. It's enough to make me sick. A purpose built mount sound not have that kind of a gap.
alum%20mount.jpg


These are much better.
IUK GRS 2pcs SK12 Size 12mm CNC Linear Rail Shaft Guide Support | eBay

Although at that power you will still have to bolt them to some bigger piece of aluminium for the run times you need on a CNC device.

it is better an active cooling system at that power or maybe only a passive tipe for the LD?

Active cooling is best for the diode. Depends on how long you'll be running it for.

there is a post were you put a lot of photos of the diode been pushed to max (from tot mA to a max of (?) i do not remember) can you please link me that post,i cannot find it ?

Are you looking for a mA vs mW chart? Is so, here ya go.
M140 - Lasers Wiki
 
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Messages
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First thought: Why did Blord change his signature?

Are you looking for a mA vs mW chart? Is so, here ya go.
M140 - Lasers Wiki

thank you, for your reply, and for the right holder,but i forgot to mention that in that holder i was thinking to fill the gap whit termal epoxy, is it still worthless the idea even using active cooling?

ho is Blord?

edit: i was not looking on a mA to mW chart but a post made by DTR were there was a kind of stress test on a M140 whith photos @ variable voltage and power, there are photos of a blue laser in a semi-round holder and there is a bench lab power supply etc.
 
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thank you, for your reply, and for the right holder,but i forgot to mention that in that holder i was thinking to fill the gap whit termal epoxy, is it still worthless the idea even using active cooling?

ho is Blord?

"Blord" is a very highly regarded member on this forum who builds and sells the all-powerful Dominator 445nm lasers :)
 

ARG

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i was thinking to fill the gap whit termal epoxy, is it still worthless the idea even using active cooling?

If you have enough airflow it can be done, but is still a bad idea in my opinion.

You would be better off leaving the gap than filling it with thermal epoxy.
Thermal paste / epoxy is made to fill microscopic gaps, not ones that you can see with your eye.
 
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"Blord" is a very highly regarded member on this forum who builds and sells the all-powerful Dominator 445nm lasers :)

@greenlander tank you, for the patience, i still need to read a lot on this forum, to knowlege who is who :D

If you have enough airflow it can be done, but is still a bad idea in my opinion.

You would be better off leaving the gap than filling it with thermal epoxy.
Thermal paste / epoxy is made to fill microscopic gaps, not ones that you can see with your eye.

te opinion of you guys is precious,because you like other old members of LPF have much more experience than me on lasers, btw the holder is dumbed allready ;) waiting to come at home then i will seel it back since i do not need it :D thank you for saving my precius diode .
i have made some photos of a "heatsink" i arrange from scrap, quality is not at best but since there is a snug fit (think has a gap of 0.04mm or less) and the main body is made from aluminium,i wuold apreciate your opinion on this

vtd2.jpg

this are the tre parts,on far left there is the actual heatsink of aluminium viewed by side, in the midle is the ferruos core of a motor (that thing were there was the copper windings) and at the far right there is the aixiz module without the lenses so the gap can bee easy seen
------------------------------------------------

e8uy.jpg

this is the front view of the heatsink carrier in alluminium and (it is hardly seen
but the gap between aixiz module and heatsink is nearly impossible to see on naked eye) the aixiz module inside of it
c9wi.jpg

-------------------------------------------------

q0dh.jpg


this is all the module mounted like it should but without the lenses again to see the very litle gap between aixiz and HS.
-------------------------------------------------

the idea between this is that if i put everiting inside a tube and suck air whit a pc fan from the front to the back (so the heatsink will have fresh air at all time in front were the diode is) maybe i can keep cold the diode/heatsink/piece of metal.....what do you think about it?

thank you for your precius information.

ps. sorry for the poor image quality do not have yet a good camera :(
 

Tmack

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What is happening here?! I have no words. Btw this is a great way to get banned
 
Joined
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What is happening here?! I have no words. Btw this is a great way to get banned

i realy dont know, :thinking: at the bigining i was thinking about a "stupid joke" then wen i see that the thing goes on, i left them without replying enymore, btw, can someone please tell me if the improvised heatsink can handle at least 800mW of power?

ps. you are talking about me for the bann because i requoted the deleted post? i was replying to the person so i didint see that the post was allready deleted.:beer:
 

ARG

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What is happening here?! I have no words. Btw this is a great way to get banned

It's a different picture tmack. Will reply in full when I'm back on my computer.

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk
 

Tmack

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No I was talking about the original poster.

A improvised heatsink CAN work as well as a dedicated heatsink. Just depends on material used, mass, etc.

I keep seeing your avatar and thinking it's blord. Haha.
 
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No I was talking about the original poster.

A improvised heatsink CAN work as well as a dedicated heatsink. Just depends on material used, mass, etc.

I keep seeing your avatar and thinking it's blord. Haha.

:bowdown: i am so sorry, now finaly i get it, the profile picture i put is in memory of my lpc-826 open can laser diode ( my very very first build and laser), since i have to go out now have litle time, but wen come back i will change it, excuses i didint mean to offend or "steal someone's identity" here on the forum.

EDIT: tank you for the response, the IHS is made of (aluminium/magnesium (?) ) since is very very light in weight, and the outer ring is made of electrolitic iron ( all parts from a gutted laser printer motor that seems like a floppy disk motor) or maybe is far to easy to say that is a outrunner motor . the mass is around 200g in total inclusive the aixiz module inside.
 
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Tmack

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Yeah it looked like the inner shaft ring of and electric motor.
The true way to see if its capable of the heat, is to hook it up to a power supply and give it a go.
I'm not sure how the other materials act under heat, but aluminum is very good. Second only to copper (& silver) 200 grams seems like it would be fine. Just hope the other materials dissipate heat as fast as the aluminum and do not "hold heat".
Much smaller heatsink have been used for much more power. It's just the runtime that suffers.
 
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Yeah it looked like the inner shaft ring of and electric motor.
The true way to see if its capable of the heat, is to hook it up to a power supply and give it a go.
I'm not sure how the other materials act under heat, but aluminum is very good. Second only to copper (& silver) 200 grams seems like it would be fine. Just hope the other materials dissipate heat as fast as the aluminum and do not "hold heat".
Much smaller heatsink have been used for much more power. It's just the runtime that suffers.

Hi, your reply, gets a +1rep :gj: from me,this info make me think about a experiment i can make,:rolleyes:
since only 34,03g are alluminium,and the rest of the electrolitic iron is about 146g maybe using a dallas termometer attached to the alluminium part can give me the right feedback on transfer heat to the electrolitic iron(if the alluminium stays cold then the iron block does his job, and increasing the runtime of the laser by increments of 5 seconds like so (5 sec on, then read termometer,then off until complete cooling then on again for 10 sec and so on), only thing i do not know is how much temperature a diode ca take?what is the maximum temperature the heatsink should have? :undecided:
maybe i will make a thread on this experiment wen i get my hands on the diode (-2 to payday :drool: )
 




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