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FrozenGate by Avery

First Build: 2.5w Handheld

Joined
Dec 26, 2012
Messages
56
Points
18
After lurking and reading for quite some time I finally got around to my first build. I'm using a 9mm diode from DTR and a 2.1a x-drive coupled to a host from Survival Laser with two 3.7v LiPo batteries. Everything here is "off the shelf" as I don't have a machine shop handy.

The result is terrifying. It burns on contact. I don't have an LPM yet (parts ordered) but I did buy a calibrated Ophir head off eBay and it measures the laser at 2.6 watts.

This is my first experience with a 445nm laser. The divergence is terrible compared to the HeNe I've got. I am also finding that after a minute or so of run time it shuts off. When it shuts off the heat sink is quite warm. I assume this might be the driver circuitry overheating? I don't have a heat sink on any of its components.
 

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you got to love that host, it's solid. i've got a m-140 at 1.8a that does 2.6w with g2 lens in that host and love it.
 
Nice build! :) If it shuts off its either the driver over heating or the batteries. As far as Ive heard the X drive V6 doesnt get that hot (by the looks of it thats the one youre using?) but I could be wrong. Did you heatsink the IC on it to anything? The latter is probably more likely...your batteries are as its coined here: "crapping out under load"! :beer:
 
Thanks for the idea about the batteries. I hadn't thought of those. I'll check them the next time it craps out.
 
By first look the host and heatsink are way to small for a ~2,5W Build !
I strongly recommend you a duty cycle of 30s on 60s off MAX!!!
It could be the driver but who cares you're gonna fry your diode anyway if you keep that thing on to long so be careful :)



you got to love that host, it's solid. i've got a m-140 at 1.8a that does 2.6w with g2 lens in that host and love it.

2,6W@1,8A ???
That sounds a little bit too much :D
 
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Hi!

I know this thread is kind of old, but I`m going to build almost exactly the same!

445nm 9mm with 2,1 A x-drive from DTR and the same host with tube extension from survivallaser!

I was told to keep it to a MAX of 60 sec on by DTR and Lazereer for the sake of the diode! The driver has got heat protection, so I will not have to worry about the driver.

I`m just waiting for the host to get started!

Greets brunes01
 
By first look the host and heatsink are way to small for a ~2,5W Build !
I strongly recommend you a duty cycle of 30s on 60s off MAX!!!
It could be the driver but who cares you're gonna fry your diode anyway if you keep that thing on to long so be careful :)





2,6W@1,8A ???
That sounds a little bit too much :D

Yeah a bit but you can't be mad about an efficient diode! And I'm glad its a large copper heatsink! You would be surprised This is host is very solid. Its 10x better then the c6!
 
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Hi!

I know this thread is kind of old, but I`m going to build almost exactly the same!

445nm 9mm with 2,1 A x-drive from DTR and the same host with tube extension from survivallaser!

I was told to keep it to a MAX of 60 sec on by DTR and Lazereer for the sake of the diode! The driver has got heat protection, so I will not have to worry about the driver.

I`m just waiting for the host to get started!

Greets brunes01

Good luck! I think Th3dArKn3o is right that this diode is a little much for the heat sink so do observe DTR's and Lazereer's duty cycle recommendation. A diode is a terrible thing to waste.
 
Yeah a bit but you can't be mad about an efficient diode! And I'm glad its a large copper heatsink! You would be surprised This is host is very solid. Its 10x better then the c6!

I love efficient diodes :) The best M140 I've seen was doing 2,5W @1,9A ;)

Copper just takes the heat faster away from the diode into the sink but a small heatsink stays a small heatsink copper or not ...
I still suggest 30sec on max an 9mm @2,1A is pretty meany :D
 
Hi!

Yeah, maybe it will be wise not to have it on longer than 30 sec!

I think a problem with this host will also be the terrible thermal conductivity of stainless steel! So the heatsink will be more a "storage", no matter it`s copper or not!

The 2,1 A X-Drive should not be a problem on such short duty cycles! And it has a very efficient heat protection!

@ brianpe

Is yours still running?


Greets brunes01
 
Hi!


@ brianpe

Is yours still running?


Greets brunes01

Yes -- it still runs great. But I don't run it that often and when I do I don't push it. I think you're right about the stainless steel not conducting heat away from the heat sink. But it sure is pretty.
 
Awesome build, very nice beam! 2.5W for your first build, very nice.
 
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Very nice laser friend! I too have the heat up and shut down issue. What happens is the diode gets to hot and the driver auto offs itself and hence the diode. The driver doesn't really heat up at all but if its in close proximity to the diode and heat sink, it helps to drop a COPPER heat sink on the inductor and IC chip on the driver. When I went to do just that I discovered that the IC chip is debadged. Don't worry about that, it doesn't effect the driver. I recommend using Shin-Etsu X23-7783D for Overclocking heat sink compound on the driver, and when installing the diode and module and heat sink for the module, use IC DIAMOND compound. Don't bother with the 24k stuff, its just how the quantity is measured. I can sell a 2 gram syringe of the Shin-Etsu for 10$ shipped anywhere in the US. Heres the other BIG tip that can help your D/C's time: Heat sinks that are half and 3/4 circles are out there for modules and other things, they come in a wide verity of sizes. Get some and heat sink compound them onto the batteries. You will need a new host if you do this as it will increase the diameter of the batteries. Heat is the number one killer of laser diodes with overpowering them being in a close second. I may be wrong on that but I think thats correct to say. Using a non contact thermometer before and after each mod you do to your laser will help show you just how hot they can get and will indicate if you are improving its heat dissipation or making it worse. Compounding the heat sink to the host will help a little too and don't feel bad that SS isn't that great of a heat conductor, its actually not that bad. Bad compared to alum. silver or copper or even gold and diamond, but its not like its wood. The way the heat sink is designed also plays a part in how efficient it works not just what its made of. Surface area is what you want, the more the better. Thats why computer heat sinks are finned and have cool designs. To increase surface area. Airflow over that heat sink is also an issue. Having holes drilled into it increases both surface area and airflow. My first build was/is a 3 Watt 445nm and I must say, you and I both picked an amazing laser to build for our first ones! Great work and keep it up! :gj: :beer:

In regards to the driver: from Lazereer "Hey There,

Jordan told me your having an Issue with me scratching off the Chip part Number.?

What is it that you have a Problem With as iam not sure what the Issue is.?

Maybe you are un awear but not all chips are Printed part numbers. Some Chips are Laser Etched and further more laser etched Deep.

The Chip i use has very deep Etching on it.

THere is no way i could buff it.

I have to scratch it off.

To keep cost down i do it myself but i can easialy get it With No marking or laser etched off but i dont think you guys would want to pay the higher price of 30$ per driver.

Ive sold over 2000 drivers and never a failed driver or had a complaint about me scratching off the Part number. This is the first one.

So iam not sure what issue you are having with the driver.?

Iam sctacting the "Plastic" as deep as the Etch is with a Guide i use. Its no where near the Die on the chip.

So you have nothing to worry about.

It is Purely Cosmetic.

If you do have an Issue you can always just contact me."
Worry not!
 
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Ok really noob question here. Because i essentially have ordered the same things you have but went with m140 module 2watt 445nm with g2 lens from DTR and the same host as you.... But what is this?



Did this come with the module?
 


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