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Old 10-01-2010, 02:58 AM #1
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Default Does anyone know what voltage the Arctic's driver can handle?

Hi, All
I have a power supply capable of 3-12 Volts/1300mA.
I want to power the laser through the shunt plug terminals via the power supply.

This is my alternative to using the supplied battery from WL


Is it safe to increase the voltage to the Arctic's driver ? How much voltage can it handle?
(and I suppose this also applies to the PCB for the LEDs) ?
And would doing so even achieve an increase in output power?

EDIT: I understand that I would need a 18x65mm 'dummy' battery to do this, I might be able to get my friend to machine something for me, but are there any other alternatives to this?

Thanks,

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Last edited by mitbrown; 10-01-2010 at 03:31 AM. Reason: Update, spelling
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:34 AM #2
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Default Re: Does anyone know what voltage the Arctic's driver can handle?

Uhh... just run it off 3.7v

Are you under the impression that if you increase the voltage then the laser's output power will increase? That's not the case.

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Old 10-01-2010, 06:47 AM #3
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Default Re: Does anyone know what voltage the Arctic's driver can handle?

^^^Agreed. You'll just make the driver heat up and burn out. The driver regulates the current going to the diode. No matter how much current you apply, the driver will keep the current going to the diode at the same level. Thats what drivers do, and why we use them.
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:17 PM #4
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Default Re: Does anyone know what voltage the Arctic's driver can handle?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mitbrown
And would doing so even achieve an increase in output power?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xplorer877 View Post
Uhh... just run it off 3.7v

Are you under the impression that if you increase the voltage then the laser's output power will increase? That's not the case.

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I'm not at all 'under the impression', but that is exactly what question I was asking.

Thanks for the help guys, I haven't had any experience with current regulating drivers, so I wasn't sure. I've only used the DIY ones so far
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:41 PM #5
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Default Re: Does anyone know what voltage the Arctic's driver can handle?

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Originally Posted by mitbrown View Post
I'm not at all 'under the impression', but that is exactly what question I was asking.

Thanks for the help guys, I haven't had any experience with current regulating drivers, so I wasn't sure. I've only used the DIY ones so far
The new smartswitch driver *should* cope with any reasonable voltage (3-5v) without producing too much heat - it's switch-mode if I recall correctly, which means it is more efficient and doesn't "waste" excess power (well, voltage) as heat. If in doubt run it off 4v. Ideally, replace it with something from DrLava instead .
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:17 PM #6
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Default Re: Does anyone know what voltage the Arctic's driver can handle?

Oh! I forgot to mention that I have the G1 model..

That is good to hear, I didn't want to have to abandon the idea because my selectable voltages are 3V, 4.5V, 6V, ect...

I totally agree that replacing the driver would be very ideal.
However since I just moved into a dorm at Oklahoma State University, I don't really have the equipment or the space necessary to build.
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Last edited by mitbrown; 10-01-2010 at 07:18 PM. Reason: didn't need to quote...
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Old 10-01-2010, 07:34 PM #7
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Default Re: Does anyone know what voltage the Arctic's driver can handle?

My vote's for 4.2V. It'll be a boost driver, so the higher voltage within the range of Li-Ion cells should require the least current from your power supply, which you said can only handle 1.3A discharge.
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:05 PM #8
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Default Re: Does anyone know what voltage the Arctic's driver can handle?

seems like he wants to use a voltage selectable
Wall Wart..

And since it is a boost driver... if the LD is drawing
1 Amp the batteries/PS needs to supply at least 2 Amps..


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Old 10-01-2010, 09:18 PM #9
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Default Re: Does anyone know what voltage the Arctic's driver can handle?

I didn't even think about that I feel kinda stupid now
I know that 1300mA isn't enough for the Arctic, I just forgot to take into consideration that the driver takes so much more current.

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