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BEST 17mm Driver For M140 Module (Non Heat sinking)

SKeeZ

SKeeZ

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Hello LPF,

I need an idea for a soft start 17/16.8mm driver that will hold a steady current and not fry my diode to quick. My budget is about 40 bucks. Ideally I
want to run the M140 Blue (445nm) module at 1.0W or maybe 1.25. If 1.25 is going to damage the driver I'm OK with 1.0W. I'd like it to be pretty efficient, at least 90% so I
don't have to heat sink it. I'm running it on 2 CR123a's. Thanks ahead of time.
 





sinner

sinner

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Not sure about the soft start , but you can get a 17mm buck driver from Angelos directly, He has them in all sizes and shapes..

I am sure about the X-Boosts having soft-start, but then you will need 1x 18650 instead of 2x Cr123a batteries.. the driver will need a little bit of heatsinking at this current..

May I ask what your project/plan is to do with this kind of dirver..
 
mhemling33

mhemling33

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LaserSam said:
Hello LPF,

I need an idea for a soft start 17/16.8mm driver that will hold a steady current and not fry my diode to quick. My budget is about 40 bucks. Ideally I
want to run the M140 Blue (445nm) module at 1.0W or maybe 1.25. If 1.25 is going to damage the driver I'm OK with 1.0W. I'd like it to be pretty efficient, at least 90% so I
don't have to heat sink it. I'm running it on 2 CR123a's. Thanks ahead of time.
Click to expand...

You have me all confused lol.

My favorite driver for the m140 is going to be X-Drive from lazeerer. You can just get a 17mm battery contact board from mrcrouse and then tie any driver into that, you don't need to use only a 17mm board. Also if the light you are using already has a driver for the flashlight you can remove the components off the board and figure out where to tie into it at.

You do know that some m140 diodes are capable of 2W with drivers set in the 1.8a range. Are you saying you want to run the driver at 1a or do you want 1w output from the diode.

Also if you are planning on not heatsinking it then you can just mail me your $40 and I'll send you a dead diode. Also diode efficiencies are a luck of the draw.

We could help you out more if you tell us what you are trying to do...

***** Also $40 for an m140 and a driver might be very hard to find. DTR is one of the cheapest (if not the cheapest) sellers of diodes that can be trusted. Here is a link to his m140 prices

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/445-m140-didoes
 
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pschlosser

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mhemling33 said:
Also if you are planning on not heatsinking it then you can just mail me your $40 and I'll send you a dead diode. Also diode efficiencies are a luck of the draw.
Click to expand...

Heat sinking of the diode and heat sinking of the high current driver are two different things. It's my understanding, if the current is low enough, the driver need not be heat sinked. But those high current ones, do.
 
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mhemling33

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I would heatsink mine at 1.25a ;) (diode that is) I will heatsink my drivers when they are at 1.8a+

I can't tell if he is talking about the diode or driver!
 
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SKeeZ

SKeeZ

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mhemling33 said:
You have me all confused lol.

My favorite driver for the m140 is going to be X-Drive from lazeerer. You can just get a 17mm battery contact board from mrcrouse and then tie any driver into that, you don't need to use only a 17mm board. Also if the light you are using already has a driver for the flashlight you can remove the components off the board and figure out where to tie into it at.

You do know that some m140 diodes are capable of 2W with drivers set in the 1.8a range. Are you saying you want to run the driver at 1a or do you want 1w output from the diode.

Also if you are planning on not heatsinking it then you can just mail me your $40 and I'll send you a dead diode. Also diode efficiencies are a luck of the draw.

We could help you out more if you tell us what you are trying to do...

***** Also $40 for an m140 and a driver might be very hard to find. DTR is one of the cheapest (if not the cheapest) sellers of diodes that can be trusted. Here is a link to his m140 prices

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/445-m140-didoes
Click to expand...
Hello mhemling33 and others,
I apologize for my lack of clarity. I plan to answer your questions now.

First of all, here is my diode: 445nm M140 Diode In Copper Module With Leads & Three Element Glass Lens $60 I have already purchased this diode and I plan to spend an additional $0-40 dollars on a Driver for this diode. unfortunatly my host does not have room for a contact board and the driver. The space i have in my host is a 17mm circular pill for my driver. The driver that i choose needs to be able to handle the two CR123a's input aswell as a 1.7A output to the diode. SO I would like the DRIVER to be efficient so i don't have to heat sink the DRIVER however I will obviously be heat sinking the diode because, I like to turn on my laser for more than a second. I also just figured out thatg m140 diodes are much more powerful than 1 Watt usually. To clarify:

I need a driver that:

Outputs 1.7A
Can take up to 7.2VDC+ input
Is relatively efficient
17mm (round) form factor
Delivers steady current
 
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dubious speculation

dubious speculation

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Lazereer has a massive order shipping to zerolasers.com with 17mm (16.8mm) buck drivers and boost drivers, although i don't think there will be a 1.7 amp version there will definitely be a round 17mm 1.8 amp buck driver,

If you get a 1.7 or 1.8 amp driver I would still Heatsink the driver for more stable abd longer outputs

As for the voltage input the buck driver will take two li-ion batteries (approx 7.2v) whereas the boost driver will take a single li-ion (approx 3.7-4.2 v)

Check out zerolasers.com in a couple of days for the stock to come in, they may already have them
 
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SKeeZ

SKeeZ

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Do you think i would be able to fit the X-Drive in the C6 with a heat sink for the M140 and the contact board?
 
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dubious speculation

dubious speculation

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Zero lasers will have the round 17mm x-drive buck drivers in stock so if you purchase that there will be no need for a rectangular x-drive with a contact board

Since the round driver acts as the driver and the contact board in much the same way the DX buck driver does
 
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SKeeZ

SKeeZ

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This is great Will! Thanks! I think this is a good time to call this THREAD CLOSED!
 
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