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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Anyone pushed a M140 beyond 2.0A?

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Feb 23, 2012
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Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone had pushed their M140 diode over the 1.8A zone and onto 2.0A.
Yes, I did my research but I don't think anyone dared to push their precious diodes beyond 1.8A.

I ask this because I'm trying out a new build that uses a 5-mode Buck driver from DX linked here.

sku_106805_2.jpg


I've considered the new 9mm 445's but they seem to be too expensive.

Also, I know there's a great thread about using flashlight drivers, but I'm looking for one that has 5-modes can drive a diode to exactly 1.8A.

Thanks to Dogsbestfriend for helping me out on this project.

Cheers!
 





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Yes, I have pushed many to 2A. Some of them like the extra current. Others prefer it to be a bit less and you will not get anymore output out of them. Some will even output less at 2A then they do at 1.8A. Really depends on the specific diode you get. Chances are it will not kill it. Just test that driver out first and make sure it isn't putting out like 2200 or 2300mA.
 
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Thank you, thank you, and thank you.
That's the exact answer I've been looking for.

Had I been knowledgeable about circuits I would have modded the DX driver to output 1.8A.

How much does the extra 0.2A reduce the duty cycle?

Cheers!
 
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If your running the M140 diode that high I would hope you considered a really good cooling method first.
 
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If your running the M140 diode that high I would hope you considered a really good cooling method first.

Yeah, I think I'm going to use a moderately large aluminium heatsink (copper's too heavy for a flashlight with a big head) with a really really short duty cycle, about 10-15 sec.

I'm trying to get a 5-mode driver work with the M140 so that it would have long-lasting low and mid power modes.

Thanks for your help. :)
 
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I ordered one for examination. Curious to see if the output is stable and is really 2A

Greetings,,
 
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Great! Thanks for testing it.
Hopefully the driver is a functional buck that can power LD's as well.

Tsteele has one ordered as well and is gonna hook it up with his scope to detect any fluctuations or spikes.

Cheers!
 
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Perhaps you can replace the resistor(s) to yield the desired 1.8A?

Yup, I thought of doing that, but I don't have an original schematic of the circuit. I think DX or the supplier rub off the chip model number, so it's pretty much a hit or miss.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

I ordered one for examination. Curious to see if the output is stable and is really 2A

Greetings,,

Offroadfreak, have you gotten your driver yet? I'm dying to know the results!

Cheers! :beer:
 
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Any results? I'm curious. I will likely end up building my M140 with an X-Drive but IMO the most optimal set up is a driver that switches between Low-High on a quick on-off so I can use a reverse clicky to accurately and quickly etch stuff with the laser.

Maybe we could somehow find a driver with AMC 7135x5 for 350mA * 5 = 1750mA driver for this purpose. It would most likely only be capable of low-med-high which I suppose might work okay. Hmm, low-duty-cycle PWM could be interesting too, it would etch dotted lines.

I dunno. It isn't honestly that hard to do it accurately with a regular laser because I can just hold it closer or farther a bit to defocus and then it wont burn. But modes are still cool.
 
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Any results? I'm curious. I will likely end up building my M140 with an X-Drive but IMO the most optimal set up is a driver that switches between Low-High on a quick on-off so I can use a reverse clicky to accurately and quickly etch stuff with the laser.

Maybe we could somehow find a driver with AMC 7135x5 for 350mA * 5 = 1750mA driver for this purpose. It would most likely only be capable of low-med-high which I suppose might work okay. Hmm, low-duty-cycle PWM could be interesting too, it would etch dotted lines.

I dunno. It isn't honestly that hard to do it accurately with a regular laser because I can just hold it closer or farther a bit to defocus and then it wont burn. But modes are still cool.

An AMC based linear driver won't work because the Vf of a laser diode is higher than that of a 3.7-4.2V cell. You can either use two cell configuration (low efficiency due to heat) or a boost driver.

I think lazeerer can get you an X-Drive with mode memory, you should ask him.

I use a cheapie DX buck driver and that has been performing very well with 5-mode memory.

Cheers!
 
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Any results? I'm curious. I will likely end up building my M140 with an X-Drive but IMO the most optimal set up is a driver that switches between Low-High on a quick on-off so I can use a reverse clicky to accurately and quickly etch stuff with the laser.

Maybe we could somehow find a driver with AMC 7135x5 for 350mA * 5 = 1750mA driver for this purpose. It would most likely only be capable of low-med-high which I suppose might work okay. Hmm, low-duty-cycle PWM could be interesting too, it would etch dotted lines.

I dunno. It isn't honestly that hard to do it accurately with a regular laser because I can just hold it closer or farther a bit to defocus and then it wont burn. But modes are still cool.


I think a driver with multiple modes is not the best way one could do this. Wouldn't it be easier to place a resistor inline with the positive lead going to the diode and then rig a switch(or foot pedal) that bypasses the resistor thus giving you a default of low output and then hit the switch and kick into high. That way you could theoretically switch modes infinitely fast with no risk of diode damage and its so simple that its not likely to mess up.

Just my two cents.
 
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For this situation buck is the best option I agree. You could always go with a boost driver if your goal was small size but I am guessing stability, battery life, and longevity are more of a concern.

After this though I am considering grabbing a couple mode drivers to do some testing with. I think a variable power laser would be pretty cool.
 




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