CDDZ
0
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2011
- Messages
- 40
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I decided to build another 445nm laser. I will do my best to describe the build as I go along. This build uses a Jib77 1.8A driver with a A-150 LD. I scavanged the A-150 from another laser with a bum driver.
Here is a picture of a side by side with my first build. The polished unit is actually .150in longer than the black, must be the angle I snapped the shot from.
I machined all the parts earlier this week. I took everything to my powder coater today and waited patiently(NOT!).In this picture you can see there is not much to it. Battery cup, switch housing, heat sink/head, battery bushing and the LD "module".
The heat sink has some heft to it, machined from 1.5in T6061 aluminum. I bored it just over .001in larger than the standard module size, I really like to quick change outs of LD modules and adjustability when focusing.
This piece of 1/2 copper pipe presses directly into the heat sink for my negative connection, with it being copper I can easily solder the negative wire for a very secure connection. I used ceramic tile to heat sink the driver, it was easily shaped to the ID of the copper. I also did not have to worry about shorting the driver with anything conductive. I used a mix of CA glue and AS5 thermal compound to secure the heat sink to the driver components. I also used a bit of heat shrink tubing to protect the solder joints on the driver. Applied a bit of AS5 in between the ceramic and the copper tube.
The copper "module" presses in nicely by hand and has excellent ground potential.
There are two stainless 8-32 set crews to secure the LD/ axiz module in place, and it is quite easy to adjust its position when focal point is reached with the lens.
I then fished the positive wire into the switch housing and attached it via two more stainless 8-32 setscrews. With no threads, there is no need to worry about twisting wires
.
This is the battery bushing, as you can notice there is an off center hole in it. This is a carryover from one of my other products. The purpose of this hole is venting in case the batteries go into thermal overrun and release gasses. If this happens the gases will not build pressure in the unit and fragment. The pressure is released from under the switch, if you look back at the second picture, you will the rectangular shaped knock outs around the switch hole.
The battery bushing wire is fished into the switch hole. The switch I used is rated at 2A@48VDC. It has screw terminals. I do not use the screw terminals, I prefer to solder the wires directly to the switch. There is only about .025in clearance and the screws would short out to the case.(not good)
I use high temp hot glue to pot the switch into the housing, remember there is only downward pressure on the switch. The hot melt forms a "nut" around the switch. Thousands of hot glue held in switches roam the earth today On the back of the battery bushing there is body mounting tape attached. This tape grabs hold of the shoulder in the switch housing, securing the bushing The bushing is easily removed if a switch were to go bad and need replacing.
Well the important stuff is all assembled. The battery cup will hold 2 x 18650, I machined this just a bit too short. I did this so only IMR batteries would be used, this was built specifically with the 1.8A driver in mind. My AW IMR 18650 could not have arrived at a better time either. I have many other high drain cells that are on their last legs. Time to install the batteries!!!! But before threading the battery cup to the switch assembly PUT ON THE LASER SAFTEY GLASSES! You may have your finger on the button when threading the unit together! Don't want any pew pew in the eye!
Almost ready to lase!!!!! I used the standard glass lens on this one, not sure if I am going to upgrade to a G-1 or not. Still waiting on my Laser Bee to arrive.......
It is not a build thread unless you have beam shots. My camera was acting up so I was only able to get one non blurry shot.
Here is a picture of it in hand. I am pretty proud of this build. I think it is very sleek and simply beautiful.
Comments and questions are welcome, thank you for looking
Chad
Here is a picture of a side by side with my first build. The polished unit is actually .150in longer than the black, must be the angle I snapped the shot from.
I machined all the parts earlier this week. I took everything to my powder coater today and waited patiently(NOT!).In this picture you can see there is not much to it. Battery cup, switch housing, heat sink/head, battery bushing and the LD "module".
The heat sink has some heft to it, machined from 1.5in T6061 aluminum. I bored it just over .001in larger than the standard module size, I really like to quick change outs of LD modules and adjustability when focusing.
This piece of 1/2 copper pipe presses directly into the heat sink for my negative connection, with it being copper I can easily solder the negative wire for a very secure connection. I used ceramic tile to heat sink the driver, it was easily shaped to the ID of the copper. I also did not have to worry about shorting the driver with anything conductive. I used a mix of CA glue and AS5 thermal compound to secure the heat sink to the driver components. I also used a bit of heat shrink tubing to protect the solder joints on the driver. Applied a bit of AS5 in between the ceramic and the copper tube.
The copper "module" presses in nicely by hand and has excellent ground potential.
There are two stainless 8-32 set crews to secure the LD/ axiz module in place, and it is quite easy to adjust its position when focal point is reached with the lens.
I then fished the positive wire into the switch housing and attached it via two more stainless 8-32 setscrews. With no threads, there is no need to worry about twisting wires
.
This is the battery bushing, as you can notice there is an off center hole in it. This is a carryover from one of my other products. The purpose of this hole is venting in case the batteries go into thermal overrun and release gasses. If this happens the gases will not build pressure in the unit and fragment. The pressure is released from under the switch, if you look back at the second picture, you will the rectangular shaped knock outs around the switch hole.
The battery bushing wire is fished into the switch hole. The switch I used is rated at 2A@48VDC. It has screw terminals. I do not use the screw terminals, I prefer to solder the wires directly to the switch. There is only about .025in clearance and the screws would short out to the case.(not good)
I use high temp hot glue to pot the switch into the housing, remember there is only downward pressure on the switch. The hot melt forms a "nut" around the switch. Thousands of hot glue held in switches roam the earth today
On the back of the battery bushing there is body mounting tape attached. This tape grabs hold of the shoulder in the switch housing, securing the bushing The bushing is easily removed if a switch were to go bad and need replacing.
Well the important stuff is all assembled. The battery cup will hold 2 x 18650, I machined this just a bit too short. I did this so only IMR batteries would be used, this was built specifically with the 1.8A driver in mind. My AW IMR 18650 could not have arrived at a better time either. I have many other high drain cells that are on their last legs.
Time to install the batteries!!!! But before threading the battery cup to the switch assembly PUT ON THE LASER SAFTEY GLASSES! You may have your finger on the button when threading the unit together! Don't want any pew pew in the eye!
Almost ready to lase!!!!! I used the standard glass lens on this one, not sure if I am going to upgrade to a G-1 or not. Still waiting on my Laser Bee to arrive.......
It is not a build thread unless you have beam shots. My camera was acting up so I was only able to get one non blurry shot.
Here is a picture of it in hand. I am pretty proud of this build. I think it is very sleek and simply beautiful.
Comments and questions are welcome, thank you for looking
Chad
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