9mm kryton

midnighttattoo said:

Im not saying you done anything knowingly
the press though was terrible and the soldering less than great.
instead of shrink wrap the wires were taped and had come loose and gooey.
I have a screen shot of the power test and it was 65 mw with fresh batteries .(it was worse before I re did the wires)
the driver was loose and the earths/negatives were not great.
I really am not slating anyone . I just need advice as to a couple of things
why a driver drops from 1600 to 1000 mv in a few seconds.? is this a driver fault
also would a diode of this nature produce such a measley amount of power at an amp
maybe because it just passed a lasing threshold ?
even so if it worked right I wouldn't be asking .there would be no point
those negative connections and the bad positive diode connection could have cause all sorts of grief and damage.

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1. It might be dropping power due to heat?
2. 9mm Diodes can be run as low as 300mA.

wannaburnstuff said:

1. It might be dropping power due to heat?
2. 9mm Diodes can be run as low as 300mA.

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Thanks as I thought..
https://www.dropbox.com/s/akc5y21cw64fsam/kryton.jpg

I'm not going to argue about the 18650 batteries anymore, I didn't put both of them in one went in the other followed behind, so it was sticking out fo the host, but was conencted to the host with a wire so it still powered on.

I dont mind acting as a middleman.
I'm in the UK as well, and I'll offer a repair for parts cost only, and LPM when done so there's no confusion.

That's if daawood isnt upto it obviously.

I would feel more comfortable having a middleman/someone with a lpm after repairs are done, so thanks ped I would like to take you up on that offer, if midnight agrees.

Also I would prefer if midnight could in some way power the diode using a different driver or a psu, to see if the driver is not broken.

Ped would be able to easily test the driver I think. And the diode for that matter. His offer is a very generous one, and will definitely help this situation start to get ironed out.

Yup its definately a generous offer. If OP could contact ped and have the laser sent to him that would be great.

I actually bought a Kryton from SBA. I got to see the build thread and LPM results long before I got it. I also have seen SBA build a number of other lasers and he has always been very upfront about the process and the ups and downs. Just makes me feel safer. A good example to follow daawood for sure.

Ped, You're Awesome!

I'm sure your Kryton will be lasing in no time Midnight :beer:

~ LB

ped said:

I dont mind acting as a middleman.
I'm in the UK as well, and I'll offer a repair for parts cost only, and LPM when done so there's no confusion.

That's if daawood isnt upto it obviously.

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I think that's an incredibly generous offer.
i think the diode has had it
which will cost the man almost as much as i paid for the deal.
But im up for it.
thanks very much. putting out no light at all now.

If both parties can get something out of it then its still worth doing I guess.

Dont do anymore with it, I'll PM you my address now and you can get it off to me (recorded delivery).

Sorry to hear the sale didn't quite go as planned, but at least I see Dawood is willing to make good on the deal. + Rep for Ped for offering to help!

Just a couple of comments though, it is possible that the anodising wasn't satisfactorily removed from inside the host. If Dawood connected the diode up without the host and it was working well, it could be that the contacts simply aren't good. That would be; picking up the negative to the driver board, or as Wannaburn mentioned the tail cap assembly and the connection between this and the host. If you can actually test the diode without the host that might clear that one up.

The driver dropping in current could be due to too much heat, if it hasn't been heat sinked well enough? You need a block of Alu or copper on top of the IC!

The batteries could also be the problem again, as Wannaburn mentioned. If your batteries crap out under load, the current will rapidly drop. I once had a build at 1.5 A with bad batteries and it worked for a max of 40 seconds before simply switching off. I was using a bad 18650, but if you are using bad 16340's or 18350's they will stop working much sooner due to the seriously reduced capacity. They will work at first, but then due to the internal resistance the potential will rapidly sag and the overall combined battery potential may not be enough to keep the driver in regulation. Just a thought? :thinking:

Yup Wannaburn, definitely AW IMR's all the way!


I have just ordered 2 18350 AW IMR's for my 9 mm Kryton from here: AW's LiIon Batteries Sales Thread *Part 12* - Page 113 The guy has the best prices I've seen! :beer:

Yeah, the only true test is to get the diode on my bench PSU and go from there.

ped said:

Yeah, the only true test is to get the diode on my bench PSU and go from there.

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Packaged and ready to go out today Thanks again

If the diode is now dead that is not my fault, when I sent it it was outputting what it should have been, after yoy'v “improved“ the wiring it seems to have begun to die. I don't know what you have been doing as i wasn't there but I know that I sent out a working laser that would have worked fine if it had fresh batteries inserted, I tested this with the 18650's. What you guys need to understand is if I send out a working laser and it dies after being with the buyer, is that my fault?? I will think about what will happen regarding the repairs.

Normally, Daawood, I would agree with you. But, based on everything you've said, and MN said, I think this should be your responsibility, should the diode need replacing.

My opinion is based on this: You didn't properly mount the diode. You didn't properly heatsink the diode when testing. You didn't properly heatshrink the leads on the diode and driver. You never metered the diode.

Again, this is just my opinion. One could just as easily say that the buyer bears responsibility for buying it based on the thread in the first place.

Maybe go halves on the replacement diode, should it require one.

It was heatsinked during testing, most of the testing happened while it was in the kryton. I admit it wasn't properly pressed, not all the way but it was in the straight and strong. Buyer decided to open everything up and resolder and whatnot, I know that when I sent it, it was working fully as it should have been. I would be comfortable pauing half for the diode, as buyer did decide to take things into his own hands. If it didn't work he should have sent it straight back and I would have accepted full responisbilty.