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Old 05-05-2009, 02:55 PM #1041
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Are you sure you haven't bridged the bit where the resistor used to be? I don't know the values of the resistors, or how they determine current, so we can only speculate what might have happened (otherwise the range would give a good clue). If you can post a good picture, it might help.


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Old 05-05-2009, 03:50 PM #1042
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Hi there, in this case a closeup photo of the solder connections you have made would be needed. PM is OK.
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Old 05-05-2009, 05:22 PM #1043
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My camera doesn't take very good close ups but I will see what I can do.

I am sure I did it right but better make sure, on the manual the picture for the 100-312 range says that you can scrape off the last resistor and also solder a jumper on the bottom of it to the one next to it. That's exactly what I did. The connection looks just like the picture you had above for the 115ma setup. Is that what I should have done for the range I wanted?

Last edited by Gata; 05-05-2009 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:15 PM #1044
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Yep, but if you did it right, the range would be right, also... ?
30mA isn't even in the lowest range available. What batteries are you using?
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Old 05-05-2009, 09:58 PM #1045
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what type or what solder should i use to solder diodes to flex driver?
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:02 PM #1046
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rosin core lead-based solder is still the best - low temperature and easy wetting. But you have to observe precautions because it contains lead.
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:13 PM #1047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drlava View Post
Yep, but if you did it right, the range would be right, also... ?
30mA isn't even in the lowest range available. What batteries are you using?
I am using a 3v primary to test the current. I will get those close ups here in the next few hours.
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:52 PM #1048
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what if the solder also contains silver?

Last edited by bennycast; 05-06-2009 at 03:48 AM.
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:51 AM #1049
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As I said my camera doesn't do close ups very well. This probably isn't going to help at all but it's the best one I got.



One thing, I am using jumper cords to connect the driver to the dummy load and to connect the dummy load to the wires coming from the multi meter. That shouldn't be a problem right?
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:49 AM #1050
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:54 AM #1051
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Hi Gata, you held it too close to the camera. Try to switch on the macro function (if you didn't already) and then re-take the picture, but from a greater distance (just a few cm's more)!
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Old 05-06-2009, 11:34 AM #1052
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Yeah it is blurry, from here it looks like you shorted the end two to give you 108-420mA adjustment.
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:37 PM #1053
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For some reason when it's set to auto I can't use macro mode. I will mess around with it in manual later.
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Old 05-06-2009, 09:47 PM #1054
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are you sure the solder has melted into the second resistor pad? I see two dots of light for two bumps. Also be careful your alligator clip is on top of the tiny fragile capacitor at the corner.

Silver solder is OK if you can work with it.
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:26 AM #1055
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I got some good pictures finally. I apologize for the large size.


Heres one of the dummy load. I messed up the jumper connecting the "RED" so I had to redo that one also. I prefer to use wires rather then just a glob of solder. Everything should be right.


EDIT: I was looking at the connection under magnification and I think I may have too much flux between the wire and the pad. But would that have given me 30-11ma range? Anyway I will resolder tomorrow and see if that fixes it.

Last edited by Gata; 05-07-2009 at 04:37 AM.
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Old 05-07-2009, 08:24 AM #1056
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To me it looks like the wire may not connect properly to the bottom left pad. Since removing the lowermost resistor decreases the current range, and jumpering the resistors increases it, this would seem to fit the facts. Do try using a solder blob. If that's not it, I'm out of ideas.
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