Hey did you get any news about the modules from Rayfoss?

They sent me an e-mail and said that the ones they tested were not really that stable... I had told them that we would want really nice stable ones.

I'm going to check the length of the new DX modules too. The only way to find out for sure, is to buy one and see if it can fit. I ordered a 200mW one, so I'll report back when I get it!
Jay

Took a beam shot and also dropped the price by $9 dollars...

Still, the main thing is to get a module that can be as short as 49mm by cutting the spring and/or cutting the extra length off the front barrel.
Jay

That's a great beamshot and a great price.

Thanks man!




Traveller, I am sending your Mini Green kit today. (Tuesday)

Hope you like it!
Jay

Possibility??

I know that there is room for the o-like 100, 150, and possibly even the 200mW module in this tiny stainless steel host if the stock driver is removed and replaced with a FlexDrive...

The FlexDrive would also be a much better and more efficient driver for the module.

The only thing I'm not sure of, is since the module is case positive (and we want the heatsinking), I think that this direct current to the positive would possibly be by-passing the FlexDrive in this set up.

Does anybody know if the FlexDrive could work in this situation? Obviously with case negative set ups, it works, but what about a case positive situation, where we do not want to isolate the module for heatsink reasons??

Anybody?

I'll message Igor and Dr. Lava, and point them to this post to see if they know for sure or not, because I will definitely do this for my personal build if it can work! It's such a sweet little host. I mean my 62mW module is very nice, but it would be just that much better with more power!
Jay


Update: I'm sure we can scratch the idea of using a FlexDrive unless the heatsink is isolated from the host...

I checked with a DMM to see if the input and output positive connection on a FlexDrive are continuous like the negatives are. And they are not. (I figured it would be that way, it only makes sense)

Anyway, for sure this would mean that the driver would be bypassed unless the heatsink was isolated from the host...

So cant wait for results I am willing to take one for science be sure to keep us posted!

Tyler

EDIT: did your 200mW DX come in yet???

If the FlexDrive can be used, then there would be plenty of room for the o-like higher powered modules in this tiny host!

I can easily mount the FlexDrive flat if needed. On a 15mm round board that would slide into the 'already machined' battery compartment that is fit for a 15mm dia. CR2!

So there is already a 'lip' inside the host where I machine it to fit the battery. This is where a round board could just sit with a FlexDrive mounted flat on the module side.

Connections to the module with wires, the usual way.

We just have to find out if this set up will work in a case positive situation without isolating the module. Because isolating the module, or heatsink, would just take away from the good heatsinking in this tiny build...
Jay

Update: Won't work unless the heatsink is isolated from the host. See above

Edit: No... I am still waiting on DX for my 200mW module. I read that some have received shipping notices, but I have not been notified of shipping yet.

Jay,

just got the host today! It took a little longer than usual, but that's because in August all of EU* is on vacation trying to get a tan, lol.

*Except for Igor who's too busy building us great lasers...

I don't have the necessary module yet, but the tolerances I can already see between heatsink and host-body is absolutely amazing...

Jay, the quality of your work truly speaks for itself and this kit is just another example of your work!

I'll keep you posted as soon as I can aquire something from Faona or elsewhere (...that is, unless you beat me to the ultimate source ).

Thanks for posting back!

I knew you would like it!

I have not found a source for anything higher than 50mW modules yet, but a person on LPF has told me that they have a source, and they are in the process of setting up shop within a week or so. So I hope that works out.

Any news matrixcs?
Jay

whoaw Jay you work really fast :O

I remember it was only a month or two back when we were discussing the possibilities of using this host with CR2 (will this host (cree c3 stainless) work with green modules?)

and now you've made it into a stunning piece.
Well done!

(too bad I have a 100mW module)

Yes! It was just a matter of finding the right sized module...

My 50mW module is a steady 62mW's. This design is giving very good heatsinking for the size...

So if we get a source for higher powered modules that can fit, it will be just that much better!
Jay

hi there jayrob, no news yet so ar still the new modules from a friend of mine is shenzhen is still unstable.. i will request susie to do us a green module that has the specifications of your size, i think o-like can do it.. but i will pm you one more thing about the green laser module.

I will have FIVE 50mW o-like modules that will dit in Jay's AWSOME host for sale on Dark Lasers in about 7 days. I'm sure Jayrob would modify the module to the correct length for a fee of course

Now you all can get the best module for this host right here in the USA!

Just thought i'd mention, Thanks Jay! hope this helps things move along,

Tyler - Dark Lasers

Hi, yep sorry for the FD to work in this build, the laser diode needs to be isolated from the host. would be cool, though!

Yeah... I figured it out shortly after I asked and edited my question.

But thanks for getting back to me on that!

I'm sure the FlexDrive can have a different version for a case positive set up! (hint hint)
Jay

I just now saw your email with the question, Jay.. But i see you already answered your own question.



Problem is, IR pumps are Common Anode diodes. Their can is the positive contact and their pin is the negative. They need a Common Anode driver to operate.

You COULD power a green with a FlexDrive or any other Common Cathode (or Common GND) driver, outside of a metal host. But in a metal host, where you have a heatsink connecting the module to the host thermally and electrically, what would happen is, you'd short the driver's output...


The FlexDrive is made for Common GND diodes and can also be used on floating-pin diodes, which don't really care about polarity, unless you make them care, by soldering either pin to the can.. Floating pins can be powered by either a common-gnd or a common-anode driver.


IRs would require electrical insulation from the host to be powered by a common-GND driver. And electrical insulation almost always also means thermal insulation.. And we don't want that.



But you seem to have figured it out by now anyway....


In any case, i'm working on a driver for greens, that will only occupy 2-3mm of the length of the host, and keep the current constant, unlike 90% of all Chinese "drivers".... As a result the power on an empty battery will be the same as on full..

That's very good news Igor!

I know that an AMC7135 type driver will work for green/case positive... (I wonder if you could just put a pot on an AMC7135 700mA driver)

But I would think that an adjustable driver would be desired.

Please keep us updated on your new driver!
Jay

yes, please do, nice info IgorT.

Check your e-mails to, i sent you a very important request IgorT.

And jay! I found a source for those koleidoscopic tips!! I'll keep you informed

Tyler

I bought 10 of those same kaleidoscope tips Dark...

I'll be offering them with my DIY Green custom front pieces, as an optional replacement custom front piece...

I was wondering if anyone would be willing to answer a few questions for me. I have a little knowledge of amps, volts, watts, etc. but very limited knowledge of lasers. I saw that several people mention 3 particular types of lasers... 50, 100, and 150 mw laser modules. I assume (correct me if I'm wrong) that they are blue (blue-ray), Green, and red laser modules. Now if you were using, say, 2 rechargeable AA batteries at 1.2V 2500 mah which, if I'm correct, adds up to 3 watts. But 3 watts to power a 50 mw laser doesn't make much sense to me... Could someone please explain this?

My whole goal in all of this is to put a laser diode (not module) in a flashlight housing and burn a few things with it I'm asking you guys because I don't know exactly what I should use to make a cheap laser perform as well as I can for the price.

Well...

Your on your way to quite a bit of reading. And for building, there is a learning curve that you must go through. Building will become easy after you learn. But you will most likely kill a couple of diodes in the process.

But it will be worth it once you learn how. This particular thread is about a Green laser kit using modules that you must buy separately. (see first post)

What you are talking about is a red or blu-ray diode.

You will need a driver, host, AixiZ module to press your diode into.

Before you can decide on the host/battery configuration you will need, you must first know the diode and driver you will use. Then you can choose a host/battery configuration that will suit your diode and driver.

There are many tutorials in the Tutorials and Help section.

If you want to start out easier, I have several 'build kits'. Most have an option for a driver pre-installed with current set. (this is most of the work)

You would still have to buy your own diode with AixiZ module. You can get this at Darklasers.com, or HighTechDealZ.com

Look at the last link in my signature for a list of kits and tutorials on different build kits and stuff that I have. Some of the more popular kits are linked in color...

Thanks for the quick response. As embarrassed as I am to say this... I got this idea from kipkay.com. In the parts used or possible to use, he lists a DVD burner diode, a blue-ray diode, an Aixiz laser module, and a mag lite for a "host". I understand how to do his build, it's rather straight forward. I'm just wondering if doing anything like adding a heat sink, lens, or driver will improve the performance enough to make it worth my effort of learning how to put them in.

Could you just explain one thing to me please... what is nm? Is it how focused, and thus how powerful the laser is? For instance what is the difference between a "650nm 20x" diode and a "405nm 6x" or "405nm 8x" diode? I have other questions about current to diodes and what the 20x, 6x, and 8x mean and blah blah but I'll try not to be a pest and go start reading. I may end up buying one of your kits to start.

P.S. Is a driver a small integrated circuit that regulates the current and voltage to the laser? How about if I use the "GROOVE Driver from Dr Lava", 16x red burning laser diode, AixiZ module, and mag lite as a host. Would that all work?

nm is the wavelength, which determines the color of the laser, the wavelengths we most commonly deal with are 405nm (violet), 532nm (green), 650nm (red), and 808 and up (Near IR and longwave IR). If you want to use a Maglite, I'd suggest Jay's Maglite kit, it comes with just about everything you need, including heatsink.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f39/fs...ray-41030.html

And the flexdrive from drlava is a great driver, but he doesn't have any right now.

If you need a mini-mag host, I've got one for pretty cheap with the tail clicky switch:

Some non-laser items for sale

Would still need the heatsink and set screw, but Jay could probably sell you a heatsink and do the set screw for a small fee.