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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

FS: Full Colour Driver Extension for the White Fusion kit

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Me too fml! I was just thinking about checking with chroma to see how relative the wavelengths are in the pursuit of white. Have the drivers been built?
 





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Do any mods have to be made to the Driver Extension so I can use my high powered 445nm diode instead of a 405 BR?
Im thinking a higher current pre-set for 445 also..
any thoughts?
 
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Do any mods have to be made to the Driver Extension so I can use my high powered 445nm diode instead of a 405 BR?
Im thinking a higher current pre-set for 445 also..
any thoughts?

... the 445 seems to be such a flexible driver ( imeant to say diode here, i am an asshole) that i doubt much different must be done, however if you are using this with the white fusion kit, i dont think a pbs cube will do so great with the wide 445 beam.

i was planning on trying to focus the 445 as much as possible for this build with a slight mod in optics, or just go for a hp br module.
 
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I am getting a 445nm diode soon, I hope. The only modification I should need to make is increase the idle current to 200mA or so. I'll post what I find so all owners can modify theirs.

And for future orders, just let me know if you want to use the driver with blue or violet diode and I'll preset the idle current accordingly.

As for max current I think 449mA is good enough, but there's always the 695mA option, and that will be way more than enough (dwarf the red and green)! :eek:
 
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Is it too late to increase the idle current for my driver I have on order with you?
I wanna build mine with the new 445nm LD with the max current set to 696mA
 
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No, I simply don't offer this yet because I don't know what it is or if it will work. I can change the max current though.
 
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Fair point, if you could change the max current that would be great, Thanks
 
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No, I simply don't offer this yet because I don't know what it is or if it will work. I can change the max current though.

i would like to change my max current to 449mA across teh board if possible as i keep blowing modules and drivers left and right, and dont have a problem making mods if i need to.

if its too late i understand, thanks for being so patient with me lol.
 
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i would like to change my max current to 449mA across teh board if possible as i keep blowing modules and drivers left and right, and dont have a problem making mods if i need to.

if its too late i understand, thanks for being so patient with me lol.

Do you plan on using the driver with a blue diode? From now on I'd like to pause all the changes till I know if it will work.
 
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Do you plan on using the driver with a blue diode? From now on I'd like to pause all the changes till I know if it will work.

nope. i had thought about it, but am going with v, as much as id like to futz with it, i think that i am going to keep the 445nm's for a bigger project.

i just feel that with having that as a max current for the 405 will be better in the long run, as its much easier for me to restrain from overdriving a diode, than it is for me to alter your driver.
 
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I have done some testing on the driver with 695mA currents. I found that it makes a ton of heat coming from the regulators, resistors and transistors. The driver itslef can take it as long as the regulators are heat sinked.

Anyone who plan to use this driver inclosed (a white fusion box for example) must use an aluminum case AND have a small fan to evacuate the air inside of the box.
This isn't only for the driver's sake, but for the lasers too because the heat sinks will do no good if they don't get fresh air. Remember the lasers will make a ton of heat on their own at this current.

Note that 695mA is the calculated current. It cannot be above that. In this real world it comes around 630-650mA as the resistors and potentiometers heat up, and the reference voltage may shift a little inside the regulator. It is not a problem but I want you all to know.

If you use the 695mA setting (~640mA) on the green laser, I highly recommend connecting two 1N4001 diodes in series with the module. Put the diodes on about half an inch length of wire from the module or directly on the output-terminals of the driver.
 
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