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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: >110mW PHR, >140mW 4x & >170mW 6x Blu-Rays

IgorT

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Yes, i AM still taking orders.... :yh:

I am offering high quality Blu Ray and Red laser builds, with several diode and power options.​


Read this post carefully, it contains all the information you need.

PM or preferably e-mail, if you have more questions or want to order.
(If you just want to see the pretty pictures, scroll down. And then scroll down some more..)​





DIY NOTE:
The offer here is for complete lasers professionally assembled from the highest quality components and the best diodes. Read bellow for all the info on the build and the specs.

If however you want to make lasers yourself and are looking for high quality DIY kits, i recommend you check out Jayrob's work!
Go to the bottom of this post for links to awesome kits and tutorials by one of the most experienced professional builders on this forum!




POST STARTS HERE:​

(And yes, it's worth reading!)


Until the begining of this year all BluRay lasers were made with the PHR diode.

Now I have managed to obtain a LARGE number of 6x Blu Ray Writer sleds! Finally a diode capable of delivering high powers! This is a diode i am willing to set to high powers, because unlike PHRs, i know they can take it, and I like my lasers to last. Email me for more details.

As with 4x's, the price difference is based on the difference in diode price (and diode sub-type - normal, good-normal, freak, super-freak, and wavelength variations - rare diodes cost more, but last longer at higher powers / look brighter at same powers (or BOTH if you ask)!).

A year ago i had to pay $350 to get a single GGW 6x diode! And i never regretted it! Now you can get a whole laser for much less!


Diode options (and PRICES):

- The price for a >130mW PHR Blu Ray laser with a fully pre-tested high efficiency PHR diode is $185 for a laser with the Romisen host in a v3 Heatsink/Module and my constant current boost driver. (or $160 with the discount option below) Power with glass lens will be over 150mW...

You can also ask for a freak PHR to reach higher power at the same current! If you want, you can even ask for a high wavelength freak and get a more visible beam!

FlexDrive DISCOUNT OPTION: The same high efficiency PHR laser can be had for $160 if it can be made with a FlexDrive instead of my driver, but still comes in the v3 Heatsink/Module... I also have some cheaper models which can be had for even less, if again the FlexDrive is used.


Check out the pictures. The main model looks even better in person!

The PHR diode CAN be set to powers higher than 130mW, even as high as 175mW or more, but becomes VERY unreliable due to being overdriven that hard... On special request i CAN set them higher, but in that case you should know they could die at any time.



- The price for a 185-215mW 6x Blu Ray laser (jumps to 220-260mW with the medium custom lens upgrade) with a fully pre-tested normal-efficiency GGW diode starts at $270. (This is called the base price)

Because i pre-test all my diodes, you can also ask for higher efficiency diodes or for high wavelength diodes OR BOTH!
These diodes cost a little more, depending on how rare they are in a diode batch - the price differences are calculated statistically - but bring certain benefits. Freaks can reach higher powers without raising the current, and high wavelength diodes LOOK brighter at the same power.
Ask for more info about special GGW diodes!

Higher powers - up to >215mW (= ~250mW after glass) - can be had for the same price, if they are reached by setting a normal diode to a higher current, but in that case there is no diode warranty except DOA (for obvious reasons - higher current = higher risk)...

If a higher power is reached with one of the rare Freak or even Super-Freak diodes, the laser costs more, because there are not many such diodes in a diode batch. But since it will reach a higher power at a lower current, it will live longer and still comes with a "Birth-Defect Warranty"

Lower powers can be had at a lower price if they can be made with a lower efficiency diode!


Because the GGW diodes vary so much, the prices of 6x lasers also vary a little with the diode sub-type you select (freaks and high wavelengths cost more because they are rare, but produce more power at the same current without shortening diode life and/or look brighter due to higher wavelengths - the price differences are calculated statistically - depending on the efficiency/wavelength spread in a diode batch).


The 6x diode can be set to higher powers, up to >215mW after plastic lens, where the power after the glass lens becomes ~250mW, altho the recommended power for longevity would be 185-200mW after a plastic lens (= around 220-240mW after glass lens).


IMPORTANT: There is a delicate balance between power setting and diode life. You can always ask for more power, but at your own risk. Alternativelly, you can opt for a lower power, and have a reliable laser, that will last for a VERY long time... But if you really want a VERY high power, your best bet is to request that it is reached with a high efficiency diode, because the more efficient diodes are less likelly to have imperfections in the die.


NEW: The 6x's are now made with the latest v3 Heatsink/Module, which doesn't require a brass AixiZ module anymore (diode (and lens) goes directly into the aluminum heatsink for perfect thermal transfer!) They are powered by my constant current boost driver optimised for 405nm diodes, which keeps the current, and with it the power EXACTLY THE SAME every time you turn the laser on, regardless of the battery charge (on empty battery, the diode still has the same power as on full!).


FlexDrive DISCOUNT OPTION: If a GGW 6x laser is made with a FlexDrive instead of my BluRay optimised driver, the base price is also lower.
But for a 6x it's probably worth it to go with a driver, that will still be able to support future higher power diodes for a long time. If a FlexDrive is used, i can not guarantee, upgradeability to ANY and ALL future higher power diodes.



- 200-300mW BluRays: I am currently working on even higher power Blu-Ray lasers, testing several different diode types, to find one that can deliver more power than GGW 6x's, with the same or longer lifetime! With the most efficient of them, the power after glass would go close to 350mW! Price is not yet fully determined but hopefully won't be too much higher than for a GGW laser, if all goes well during testing - again prices will vary by diode efficiency (better efficiency = better diode)... Lots of work and testing ahead of me!

Taking reservations for the first batch of >200-300mW+'s! (non-obligatory reservations) made with the S03 diode - depending on the results of my testing!



- Custom 300-400mW BluRays: Using the BDR-203BK diode, i can now make lasers with powers as high as 300-400mW+! Contact me for the price! They could be set even higher (close to 500mW), but their life would be shortened too much in that case...

Each BDR-203BK laser will be custom made to order in (almost) any host you chose (except the Micros). The classic Romisen host, while small is by now the most advanced due to the v3 Heatsink/Module, altho similar stability can be achieved in several of my other hosts!
For each BDR-203BK diode a full PIV plot will be made, and my power recommendations will be based on that plot. (You get the plot of your diode with the laser)

NOTE: A BDR-203BK laser can in some cases only be made with my boost driver due to high voltage requirement of the diode (over 6V in some cases), so the "FlexDrive discount option" is not recommended!



- I also make <300mW open can RED lasers in the same body, but black. They use an AR coated acrylic lens for now, and deliver 280-290mW (depending on diode efficiency). The same glass lens upgrade will work with these lasers as well and bring them to ~300mW.
Even tho the laser is tiny, you don't have to worry about a duty cycle, because of the good heatsinking, and no heat created by the driver. If you feel it getting warm (after several minutes of continuous use), you can turn it off and let it cool a bit, but what feels warm to us is actually still cold for the diode. Contact me for the price and details.

NEW: With the v4 or v5 FlexDrives, the red now also uses the new v3 Heatsink/Module, optimised to fill up as much room as possible with aluminum mass, leaving just enough room for the driver in the middle. Since the diode is stuck directly into aluminum, the heat dissipation is as good as can be in this host, and the power stability is increased, due to reduced thermal gradient between the diode and the heatsink. Ask for pictures of the internals, if you want to see how it is built. (= email me)




Drivers:
I make my own High Efficiency Boost Drivers optimised for BluRays, which unmodified are capable of boosting up to 10V, delivering as much as 1.5A of current. With a different output capacitors, the driver could go as high as 25V if it was needed, but no 405nm diode will ever need even close to 10V.

This gives the laser the capability of always being easy to upgrade to the next higher power diode we will get our hands on in the future for barelly more than the cost of that diode!

The drivers i use never change in current more than ~0.2mA from full to empty battery, which makes them the most stable drivers around, and means that the power of the laser remains EXACTLY THE SAME until the moment the battery is completelly empty and shuts down.

Unlike linear drivers, DC/DC converter drivers work at an efficiency of almost 90% creating no noticable heat, that would reduce the lasers power by overheating the diode. Because of this, no duty cycle is required, since the driver is not cooking the diode all the time.


The red lasers use a v4 or v5 FlexDrive, with added output capacitors for better diode protection.

Alternativelly i can also use a FlexDrive for BluRays, if you want a discount. But there are certain limitations when it comes to 8x diodes, and the power fluctuates by a few mW over the battery voltage range (from full to empty). This is not noticable without a meter tho.



Powers:
- The default power for the PHR Blu Ray is set to just over 130mW (can be more or less - your choice) after a clear acrylic lens, (power will go over 150mW with glass lenses). You CAN ask for MUCH more power from a PHR, but don't be surprised if it dies. PHRs can not handle powers higher than 135mW after a plastic lens for too long...


- The 6x Blu Ray diodes are known to survive up to 200mW after a plastic lens. But no diode available so far (EDIT: Except an 8x) can survive that "forever", because when the power after plastic is 200mW, the actual diode output is over 250mW! That is above the pulsed ratings, and diodes usually don't like that.

But my personal 6x set to 193mW has survived a year of heavy (ab)use and i later had to set it to 236mW to kill it in the end, while experimental PHRs set to 150-170mW just kept dying one after another in a row, when used as much. The 6x can survive 200mW much longer than a PHR can survive 150mW, but the recommended power for longevity would be around 185-195mW (= a good-normal GGW 6x at <200mA).

The 6x is finally a diode that makes good use of my build's capabilities, and one which i am willing to set to VERY high powers, as long as you understand what that means. (If you don't, ask!)

However, due to the fact that i weed out the weakest 6x's, the extensive pre-testing i do on every single diode, and the careful selection process - i select a diode that is most suitable for your desired power - most of them will survive a year if not several of normal pointer use, even at powers such as 200mW after plastic lens - ~240mW after glass.

The only exception is if a diode has a hidden "birth defect". But this is covered by a "Birth-Defect Warranty" for GGW diodes. More on this below.



You can ask for any diode to be set to a higher power.
A higher power is just a higher current setting!



But a higher current will inevitably shorten the life of the diode! There is no way around this fact - the higher a diode is set, the faster it will burn out. No duty cycle can prevent that! All a duty cycle does is, it makes you use the laser less, and the diode lives longer in days, months even, but not in hours of actuall use!


405nm diodes have the unusual ability to be set way above their pulsed ratings, something which is impossible with reds (and other normal diodes). And then they keep on living for a while, sometimes long enough to deceive you into thinking they will survive. This allows us to set PHR diodes to powers which should be impossible with ANY diode available so far. But if you exaggerate, you can end up with a diode that dies in 15 hours or much less. Some diodes are tougher, others are weaker, and it is impossible to predict how long one will survive when overdriven. That is why i try to keep the powers reasonable and safe. I want my diodes to last, even if you do actually use the laser.




About Pre-Testing:

I test every single 405nm diode on my Diode Analyzer (a device i made specifically for this purpose), to find the best power for each diode individually. I make a Power vs. Current vs. Voltage plot of the diode, and 6x lasers will come with a full power graph (when i finally manage to type in all the data - over 60 GGWs so far - a lot of typing! :undecided:).


My power recommendations are based on the test results (efficiency, kink positions...) and a lot of destructive testing (to determine the lifetime). For each diode type i try to find a power, where the laser will be able to survive over a year of normal use in most cases.


You can always ask for more power, but i do believe you should be aware of the tradeoff - higher power = shorter life, lower power = longer life.

Unless of course the higher power is achieved by using a higher efficiency diode!
- Higher efficiency usually means a "healthier" die with less imperfections. This is the reason i prefer to reach higher powers with higher diode efficiency rather than by raising the current. That way i can make a higher power laser, that will live just as long or sometimes even longer!


What you want is up to you. You can ask for maximum reliability or maximum power, but i will still try to kep max. powers reasonable. The powers mentioned above are actually quite high, even tho many set them even higher, but of course without any kind of diode warranty.


The pre-testing also allows me to fulfill special wishes, such as diode wavelength and diode efficiency. But since many of the diodes are too weak to use, and the rest vary all over the place, i have to separate them into price groups, based on their efficiency and wavelength... This way you can decide up front what you want, and you will never get a random diode in one of my builds.

In general, when you ask for a certain power, i always select the diode that is most suitable for that power and will in most cases last you a very long time. I keep the currents under 200mA, and prefer to reach higher powers with higher efficiency diodes...



Warranty:
- The >110mW PHR lasers are covered by a 3 month diode warranty, if you want more power, you can get it for the same price but without the diode warranty (you pay for diode replacement if something happens - the replacing itself is free tho, the build itself still has full warranty in any case).

- If you ask for max. reliability from a GGW 6x, it is also covered by the 3 months warranty, if you ask for max. power, you pay for diode replacement in case it burns out UNLESS IT BURNS OUT WAY TOO SOON (Birth-Defect Warranty). Again, the replacing itself is free - in the worst case, you pay for a new diode...

The build itself is covered by a FULL WARRANTY. If the laser breaks due to a fault in the build, it will be rebuilt completelly for free.
All 6x diodes have a "birth-defect warranty" - if one should die way too soon, like within a week or two...
The ones that survive that initial period usually live a long happy life afterwards.



Upgrades:
With special 405nm AR coated glass lenses, higher powers will be achievable without overdriving the diode! The glass material lets through more light, than plastic, and the AR coating eliminates reflective losses. Light that would normally be reflected back towards the diode goes through the lens, and adds to the power, while at the same time reducing the strain on the diode and prolonging it's life!

The lens upgrade will be available at manufacturing cost. Once it's in, you can get a laser with the lens in it already.


Another upgrade option is an upgrade to a better diode.

If a better diode is available, the laser can be upgraded to that diode for the cost of the diode and a very small fee.




The build (IF NOTHING ELSE, READ THIS!):
The tiny laser uses a high efficiency constant current boost driver. It makes the most of the battery capacity and the battery life is 3-4 hours, depending on the model, battery quality, and the current/power setting of course. This translates into weeks of normal use.

Constant current means, that the laser will have the exact same power, every time you turn it on, even when the battery is almost completelly empty. It also means, that as the laser warms up, the driver will automatically reduce the voltage, in order to keep current the same at all times. This way it powers the diode in the safest possible way.

The high efficiency of the driver means, that the driver creates almost no heat, so the diode is the only source of heat in the laser! Because of that, this tiny laser can support any diode available now or in the future, regardless of it's power. It can even support a 300mW red diode with a practically unlimited duty cycle. Especially now with the v3 Heatsink/Modules...

The laser utilises a fully modular design, easy to take apart for adjustments, or diode replacement, if it should ever turn out to be necessary. If you ever have to send it back to me, you only have to send me the tiny module that sits in the head. The module could even simply be switched for another one in an emergency! The tiny module is a completelly self contained laser by itself. The host is just a pretty battery holder and secondary heatsink.



Shipping:
Registered Priority Airmail costs $9 worldwide or $6 for countries in the EU and has a tracking number, so it can't get lost (in most cases you can track it online).

The laser will also be disguised as a "DIY Flashlight-Kit" for people from countries with "Lazor-Craze", so you don't get into trouble with the customs.
Delivery guaranteed or you get another laser or your money back!


I have shipped almost 150 lasers to many different countries all over the world, and there are never any problems with the customs.

The laser is declared as a "$12 DIY LED Flashlight KIT" and disguised as such, that's why i can guarantee delivery.. It never fails.



I am selling the lasers to fund the custom lens project (and so that i can experiment on diodes and do destructive testing without going broke ;))...

Once the lens project is completed, i will also offer upgrades to a special 405nm AR coated lens for around $25-$35. A similar lens costs $100 at ThorLabs. This lens will make the laser even more powerful (blocks less light and eliminates reflective losses) without pushing the current and endangering the diode!

Until then the lasers will use a clear acrylic lens (unless you chose otherwise).


EDIT: The final lens models have been selected, and they will be available soon, after the final testing! :D The final testing starts as soon as Jayrob mounts the three final lens candidates into metal lens nuts for optimal light throughput.



Features:
- Small but powerful, you can carry it around in your pocket all the time
- You can choose the power you want 110-135mW for the PHR and 170-215mW for the 6x (you can ask for more, but power determines diode life!). These powers are after plastic lenses, and will be MUCH higher with glass.
- The lasers are made using only the higher efficiency diodes, in order to reach the desired powers at a lower currents prolonging the diode life.
- Three months warranty on the PHR at the default power of >130mW (>150mW after 405nm AR coated glass!)
- Three months warranty on the GGW 6x if you ask for Maximum-Reliability.
- Full warranty on the build itself, support, servicing and the possibility to upgrade to ANY higher power diode when available.

- High efficiency constant current DC/DC converter driver (current regulation), for reliable operation and constant high power, independent of the battery charge. The high efficiency of the driver also means it creates no heat and doesn't reduce the diode's power while operating!
- Fully modular design, easy to take apart, replace diode or disguise as a flashlight (for customs in LazerCraze countries)
- High quality build with great heat sinking so you never have to worry about a duty cycle again! Especially now, with the v3 Heatsink/Modules, where the diode is pressed directly into the aluminum
- Comes with several lens protection caps for EDC in your pocket (because i know you'll lose some ;)) Dust on the lens can reduce power and mess up the output, bad cleaning just makes it worse!! ALWAYS USE THE LENS CAPS WHEN THE LASER IS OFF! NEVER TAKE THE LENS OUT UNLESS YOU ARE REPLACING IT FOR A BETTER ONE!
- Comes with a battery pack of two (laser only needs one) I recommend you order a spare pack and charger from the links in the second post of this thread.
NEW:
- Since i pre-test all diodes before using them, each 6x diode Blu Ray laser will come with a full power vs. current plot of your particular diode, made on my Diode Analyzer (i will send these to the buyers after i manage to type in the full high resolution PIV data of by now >60 GGW diodes - something that was impossible to do while building all those lasers!).



UPDATE: There are HUGE differences in the efficiency of the PHR and 6x diodes! I select only the best diodes for my builds (diodes that put out more power at the same current). This way i am able to give you a more powerful laser without shortening the life of the diode!

The lower efficiency diodes are used for experiments (high current life-time tests), or they can be turned into slightly lower power lasers, with a discount.





DIY Links:
If you want to learn how to make lasers yourself, i highly recommend you check out Jayrob's kits and his detailed tutorials!

You will get the highest quality parts and all the help and support you will need to learn how to make your own lasers, from one of the forums best professional builders! Check out his many original ideas for different laser models - click on the links below!

'Pocket Mini Kit'! - Click Here
'DIY Green Kit'! - Click Here
'Key Chain CR2 Build Kit'! - Click Here
For a comprehensive list of all of Jayrob's awesome tutorials - Click Here

NOTE: If you like one of the kits but don't know how to assemble it yourself, you can ask to have me build it for you.





Time for some pictures... (Click on the thumbnails and then Scroll down for more.)


Check out the Power Stability Graph of a v3 HS/M 6x BluRay recorded by Electron on a Coherent LabMax Top!
 

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Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

Battery and Charger info:


The laser uses AA size Li-Ions, called 14500s. They have a high capacity and their voltage is in the perfect range for the driver. This way you get THE SAME EXACT power every time you turn the laser ON. When the battery is almost empty, the power of the laser is still the same, as on a full battery.



The AA sized Li-Ions are called 14500. Here are some examples from DX:
Protected TrustFire: Short circuit, overcharge and discharge protection.
Protected TrustFire: Short circuit, overcharge and discharge protection. (For some reason, these batteries are identical as the ones above, only cheaper. I am ordering these from now on)
Protected UltraFire: Short circuit and overcurrent protection, Re/Dis-charge protection - WARNING! The gray batteries may not fit well in the new model of the host! Their OD has too large tolerances. Get the protected blue TrustFire batteries!


I have tested all of these battery types, and i recommend you get the blue TrustFire batteries!! The UltraFire brand can be too fat to fit the host sometimes. The OD tolerances are bad.. Mostly they fit, but sometimes they can get stuck. You can also ask for the batteries to be included...


Also, you should DEFINITELLY use PROTECTED batteries! The price difference is small, and this is not something to be cheap about. The protection circuitry will protect the battery from underdischarging, by turning it off.


The blue TrustFire battery has a rated capacity of 900mAh, which is about the same in voltage and capacity as three high quality AAA Ni-MHs.





The laser uses ONE battery at once, and it gives it a total run-time of 3-4 hours (depending on the current setting).
3-4 hours for me translates into a week of heavy use. Depending on your level of use, it can last one week or two. Sometimes even longer.
They last long enough that i completelly forget about the fact they need recharging.

I try to have one pack of batteries for each of my personal lasers, so that i can have one battery in the laser and one in the charger. If the laser shuts down, i simply switch them and i'm back up and running.

If i'm going somewhere, and taking the laser with me, i take both batteries (a pack), knowing they will last, regardless of how much i will use my laser. If i'm only going away for the weekend, i just take a full battery with me. Since these are Li-Ions, you can recharge them at any time. You don't have to completelly discharge them first! Don't fall for the memory-effect myth, you'll just kill your batteries faster!



Suitable chargers:
TrustFire All in one Li-Ion charger: Universal charger for all round Li-Ions (works good, but feels kinda cheap, can charge shorter batteries without spacers tho)
AA and AAA size Li-Ion charger: Only suitable for 14500's (AA size) and 10440's (AAA size Li-Ions)...
UltraFire All in one Li-Ion charger: Universal charger for all round Li-Ions (feels like higher quality, than the first one, needs spacers for shorter cells)


I tested all these chargers, and they all work well. They stop charging automatically, so they could be used with unprotected batteries (altho the lasers should not be used with unprotected batteries). It is always better to use protected ones, as they would stop the charging by themselves if the charger failed for some reason.


The last charger costs a bit more, but it would seem to be of a better quality. It also has a 12V DC socket, so it can work off a 12V adaptor or even in a car. But it needs spacers for shorter batteries, like 10440's and CR123's...

The first charger can charge 10440's and CR123's directly, because the extendable contacts go together closer than on the last one. It's probably just as good as the last one, but the plastic feels cheaper. I have and use both.. This one also has a 12V DC socket...






Here's another picture. This time showing most of my models, including the new ones:
- On the left, a personal MaxMass-Dorcy build (a self challenge in power stability)
- Second from the left, the CR123 Side-Button build
- Third, the by now "Classic" model
- On the right, the "Tiny Monster" build

For info on the new models, go here: http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1210968450/940#940



A pic of most of my models
(Scroll down for more pics!)​
 

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Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

WOW that grey one is great the pointer i'm not too keen on , I dislike pointer style lasers in general. but the little grey one is super.
 
Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

Yeah, i don't like pen lasers too much either (except my CNI). That is the reason the bodies are available in the first place.. *;D
I put the guts into more massive bodies for some real heatsinking. 0.5W pump diodes are suffocating in a pen.

I wanted to do that nice small laser for a while now, but always had WAY too much real work. It was supposed to be a ~20mW BlueRay, but now it will be a monster in comparison. And very small! I'm obsessed with small lasers i guess. :)






Beamshots of the main model (Scroll down for more!)​
 

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Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

IgorT said:
Yeah, i don't like pen lasers too much either (except my CNI). That is the reason the bodies are available in the first place..  ;D
I put the guts into more massive bodies for some real heatsinking. 0.5W pump diodes are suffocating in a pen.

I wanted to do that nice small laser for a while now, but always had WAY too much real work. It was supposed to be a ~20mW BlueRay, but now it will be a monster in comparison. And very small! I'm obsessed with small lasers i guess.  ::)


Yeah me too I even have a small car must be because we have big wee wee's LMAO
 
Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

thejunkmonger said:
Yeah me too I even have a small car must be because we have big wee wee's LMAO

Oh.. So you think we are compensating? *::)




EDIT: Two pictures of the laser in my hand, for size reference. It's very small, but feels quite heavy! The aluminum all-in-one module and the massive host keep the diode cool, even after extended periods of use.

Even after seeing all the pictures, people still tell me, they are surprised, when they see it in person, and that they didn't think it would be this pretty or so small. It's small. Really. Very small. Smaller than you think.

DISCLAIMER: Hand sizes may vary.. ;)



The laser in my hand, for size reference... (Scroll, scroll, scroll!)​
 

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Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

IgorT said:
[quote author=thejunkmonger link=1210968450/0#4 date=1210971057]Yeah me too I even have a small car must be because we have big wee wee's LMAO

Oh.. So you think we are compensating?  ::)[/quote]


no doubt

Get some more pics up of that wicked looking mini grey.
 
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Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

I will. As soon as i have some time on my hands.. I'm actually working 16 hours per day right now due to a large order from a customer (second batch of prototypes for a big customer). I'm slowly going crazy. I wish i could build lasers instead. :)



EDIT: Some more pictures of the laser in the beautiful new higher quality host with custom warning labels attached..

This one shows two of my personal lasers. If you want a label for your laser, just ask, and i'll put it on, or hide it into the battery compartment, if you're from a country with restictive customs.


EDIT EDIT: I am currently unable to provide labels, cos the person who used to make them stopped replying. But i'm working on getting my own made. If i can get them made, you can ask for them afterwards for free.



Pics of lasers with Laser Warning Labels attached (More pics down below!)
 

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Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

They both look great! I am very interested in one of them, probably the gray one. I have dreamed about having a hi power bluray for almost a year now, Perhaps my dreams are soon coming true! 8-)
Oh, you work 16 hours a day!? :o That's insane! If I would have done that, I would probably be so tired so that I would not be able to write a single word on this forum. I can understand that you are going crazy.
 
Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

It looks like the button on the pen is up-side down. I do that when testing because it's a little tricky going from the inside. Nice work btw. :)Technically, it's called "blu", not "blue", but who's counting? :P Can't wait to see some beam shots. :D
 
Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

You are correct. The button is upside down. I didn't want to leave an empty hole and i didn't have time to take everything appart again and put it in just for the photo. :)

I put Blue Ray between these:".." i thought it would be understood. You think i should change it?

EDIT: I changed it, just in case...



EDIT 2: Some pictures of the guts of the laser...

This is the v2 All-in-One Heatsink/Module. It's based on the original module, except that it doesn't open up in the middle, but is machined from a single piece...

The heatsink/module is designed to fill up as much room as possible with aluminum mass, leaving only enough room for the driver inside. This way it gives the diode the maximum heatsinking possible in each individual host. Hence the nickname - "MM-FD" (MaxMass-FlexDrive) or "MM-MD" (MaxMass MyDriver) Heatsink/Module - each optimised for a particular diode/driver combination. On top of that, it is made to have good thermal contact with the host, using it as a secondary heatsink, preventing the main one from saturating....


This tiny thing is a complete laser by itself. The body is just a pretty battery holder and a secondary heatsink.
Everything is safelly contained and enclosed within the heatsink/module, add power, and it's a laser..

On the right i attached a battery over two alligator clips, to demonstrate the principle.. ;)



The fully modular design ensures the laser can NEVER break! Even if you take the module out of the head it is still completelly safe!
You'd have to open the module, and do something horribly bad to the insides, before you could break ANYTHING in these builds! That is why i can give a full warranty on the builds themselves! I can guarantee, that the build will withstand any kind of use (and abuse)!

The ONLY thing that can EVER go wrong is the diode burning out, and that depends on one thing, and one thing only - the power you ask for. And if the diode burns out, it is replaced at cost of a new one (outside of diode warranty, or if higher powers are requested).




Pics of the v2 All-In-One Heatsink/Module (Scroll down to see how it all goes together)
 

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Re: FS: >50mW "Blue Rays", two models... Any inter

lazerguy said:
They both look great! I am very interested in one of them, probably the gray one. I have dreamed about having a hi power bluray for almost a year now, Perhaps my dreams are soon coming true! 8-)

You will have it soon. I put you on the list and you are among the first six..

I was dreaming about it for long as well. Almost wanted to buy a 6x burner! Then this appeared. I think these might be the same dies as in 4x BR writers, only in different cans. They definitely behave that way. Some others think this might be true as well.



Oh, you work 16 hours a day!? :o That's insane!
It is insane. A big customer gave me a big job with a deadline, that was impossible to meet from the start! It is supposed to be finished by next Tuesday, but i am hoping i will be finished by the end of next week.


Building prototypes is VERY time consuming work. Especially, when most of the stuff has to be done by hand.
Building these babies is relaxation in comparison. On the other hand, one and a half of the prototypes will buy me a >400mW green... ;)




EDIT: Anyway, this is how the v2 laser goes together. The heatsink/module just pops into the head, and the laser is finished.

The first version was similar, only that the module screwed into the head directly...




The All-In-One Heatsink/Module, next to an empty host (Scroll one last time, to see the red build)
 

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Re: FS: >50mW Blu-Rays, two models... Any interest

AMAZING work Igor! I'm interested in one myself! ;)

That's a great little 'flash light' you got there... and I'm sure many people around here will agree... especially with that interchangeable heads deal :)

Thanx;
DDL
 
Re: FS: >50mW Blu-Rays, two models... Any interest

Thanks Daedal! I appreciate your oppinion very much! :)


Ok, now it's time for the usual 4 hours of sleep i've been getting lately..




EDIT: Here is the last picture, which also shows the red build. If you want to see more pictures, in better resolution, drop me an email..



193mW 6x Blu Ray, 295mW open can red, 175mW PHR (Ok, you can stop scrolling now... :angel:)
 

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Re: FS: >50mW Blu-Rays, two models... Any interest

interested in pen how much, i feel too lazy to PM you
 


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