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Old 03-31-2014, 03:44 AM #993
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

That's what I was saying it sounds like he needs to call the power company and have them come out and take a look before something burns up.




Quote:
Originally Posted by the lightning stalker View Post
That doesn't seem right. Where you're at there should be a dedicated transformer on the
pole just for you and it should be fairly close to the house. I have seen the crimp
connectors on the service entrance go bad. One time during a really hot summer i
remember seeing someone's overhead wires actually catch fire where they were crimped
near the weather head. The lineman installed a new crimp terminal and everything was
lovely once again. Wonderful


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Old 03-31-2014, 03:54 AM #994
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Double post

Well impossible not, check this out>








Quote:
Originally Posted by ionlaser555 View Post
in the UK they are impossible to get ...... :/

For now 3.6Vac @ 1000 Amps will have to do : P
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:58 AM #995
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Would love one of these but I'd like a more portable system lol. I didn't just realize 3 phase is pumped all over the place. They just tap alternate phases per house to even the load. I want to get a ladder and go steal one
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:07 AM #996
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

They are portable didn't you look under the pig


You can find them in the strangest places if you look, there was an old building in town they were tearing down a
year ago and it had 3 of them in it and I could have gotten them for a song and a dance I'm sure as they went away
in the back of a dump truck to salvage.
Look around if you really want one I bet theirs one out there with your name on it


Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy78 View Post
Would love one of these but I'd like a more portable system lol. I didn't just realize 3 phase is pumped all over the place. They just tap alternate phases per house to even the load. I want to get a ladder and go steal one
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:12 AM #997
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flaminpyro View Post
Wow sorry to hear that maybe there is something wrong in your area, or maybe you are at the end of the power transmission line ?

It almost sounds like the drop to your house may be too small of gauge of wire, you should have the power company come check your situation out !

I'm out in the country and our voltage is usually around 119 volts but in the evening I have seen it drop to 114 volts, when every ones cooking or taking showers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Lightning Stalker View Post
That doesn't seem right. Where you're at there should be a dedicated transformer on the
pole just for you and it should be fairly close to the house. I have seen the crimp
connectors on the service entrance go bad. One time during a really hot summer I
remember seeing someone's overhead wires actually catch fire where they were crimped
near the weather head. The lineman installed a new crimp terminal and everything was
lovely once again. Wonderful
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flaminpyro View Post
That's what I was saying it sounds like he needs to call the power company and have them come out and take a look before something burns up.
I'm pretty far out in the country but I know I'm not at the end of a transmission line. We have our own pole pig about 150ft from the house and we're "supposedly" on 200A service, though I doubt that. The only devices on 220 are the clothes dryer, water heater, and stove, and they're all underperforming. As they're all mostly resistive loads it doesn't really bottom out the voltage too bad, but when we turn our 12A vacuum cleaner on (being an inductive load) it resets all the clocks in the house, lol.

I'd called them out to take a look a while back and they said it was fine, though I was complaining about RF noise being made and not voltage dropout. I'll see about giving them a call again soon. I do remember something strange though, I had talked to one of the linemen when they came out and asked what the potential was on the HV side, he said only 7200V. It is two phase transmission line (three conductors), so I'm not sure if he meant 7200V between phase and neutral which would be normal (14400 phase to phase) or of it is only 3600V between phase and neutral (7200 phase to phase). If it is only half the normal HV side voltage though that would partially explain why we see the voltage drops we do here, as the transmission lines aren't heavier gauge than normal.

Oh, and the house wiring is all 12ga solid copper, so it shouldn't see huge voltage drops at relatively small loads.

A good example though; the only thing on in the house now is a small modern tv, my pc (drawing only 110W at idle), and maybe 150W of fluoro lights; voltage is 120.2V. If I turn on my 1200W space heater the line voltage drops to 113.5V. That's 6.7V drop for only a 9.85A load, or over 680mOhms impedance.
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Old 03-31-2014, 11:07 AM #998
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flaminpyro View Post
Double post

Well impossible not, check this out>

Ok , not impossible , but practically nearly impossible . I have more chance of getting a multi-coloured unicorn over one of them :P
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Old 03-31-2014, 12:20 PM #999
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

I would print out what you just said to here and give it to them, when they see it in writing maybe it will have a positive impact and they will come out with the right
equipment to see what is going on, if your home when they arrive you can demonstrate for them your problem.

You causing a brown out to your own equipment is not right and can lead to premature equipment failure especially inductive loads and it should not bother restive loads.

Yep send em a letter with every word of this info included



Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigurthr View Post
I'm pretty far out in the country but I know I'm not at the end of a transmission line. We have our own pole pig about 150ft from the house and we're "supposedly" on 200A service, though I doubt that. The only devices on 220 are the clothes dryer, water heater, and stove, and they're all underperforming. As they're all mostly resistive loads it doesn't really bottom out the voltage too bad, but when we turn our 12A vacuum cleaner on (being an inductive load) it resets all the clocks in the house, lol.

I'd called them out to take a look a while back and they said it was fine, though I was complaining about RF noise being made and not voltage dropout. I'll see about giving them a call again soon. I do remember something strange though, I had talked to one of the linemen when they came out and asked what the potential was on the HV side, he said only 7200V. It is two phase transmission line (three conductors), so I'm not sure if he meant 7200V between phase and neutral which would be normal (14400 phase to phase) or of it is only 3600V between phase and neutral (7200 phase to phase). If it is only half the normal HV side voltage though that would partially explain why we see the voltage drops we do here, as the transmission lines aren't heavier gauge than normal.

Oh, and the house wiring is all 12ga solid copper, so it shouldn't see huge voltage drops at relatively small loads.

A good example though; the only thing on in the house now is a small modern tv, my pc (drawing only 110W at idle), and maybe 150W of fluoro lights; voltage is 120.2V. If I turn on my 1200W space heater the line voltage drops to 113.5V. That's 6.7V drop for only a 9.85A load, or over 680mOhms impedance.
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Old 04-04-2014, 12:31 PM #1000
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigurthr View Post
I'm pretty far out in the country but I know I'm not at the end of a transmission line. We have our own pole pig about 150ft from the house and we're "supposedly" on 200A service, though I doubt that. The only devices on 220 are the clothes dryer, water heater, and stove, and they're all underperforming. As they're all mostly resistive loads it doesn't really bottom out the voltage too bad, but when we turn our 12A vacuum cleaner on (being an inductive load) it resets all the clocks in the house, lol.

I'd called them out to take a look a while back and they said it was fine, though I was complaining about RF noise being made and not voltage dropout. I'll see about giving them a call again soon. I do remember something strange though, I had talked to one of the linemen when they came out and asked what the potential was on the HV side, he said only 7200V. It is two phase transmission line (three conductors), so I'm not sure if he meant 7200V between phase and neutral which would be normal (14400 phase to phase) or of it is only 3600V between phase and neutral (7200 phase to phase). If it is only half the normal HV side voltage though that would partially explain why we see the voltage drops we do here, as the transmission lines aren't heavier gauge than normal.

Oh, and the house wiring is all 12ga solid copper, so it shouldn't see huge voltage drops at relatively small loads.

A good example though; the only thing on in the house now is a small modern tv, my pc (drawing only 110W at idle), and maybe 150W of fluoro lights; voltage is 120.2V. If I turn on my 1200W space heater the line voltage drops to 113.5V. That's 6.7V drop for only a 9.85A load, or over 680mOhms impedance.
in Straya, the standard residential has 16mm2 mains good for 80A single phase.

All power points are are wired in 2.5mm2 and all lighting points are 1.5mm2

we also run a MEN link which links the neutral and earth bars to the same potential

We call your GFCI RCD's :S

Also our wiring standard the AS3000 says we can have a maximum of 5% voltage drop, so 11.5V on 230VAC
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Old 04-04-2014, 01:52 PM #1001
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiddy View Post
in Straya, the standard residential has 16mm2 mains good for 80A single phase.

All power points are are wired in 2.5mm2 and all lighting points are 1.5mm2

we also run a MEN link which links the neutral and earth bars to the same potential

We call your GFCI RCD's :S

Also our wiring standard the AS3000 says we can have a maximum of 5% voltage drop, so 11.5V on 230VAC
UK we have 2.5mm2 for a socket ring final backed by 32A , 2.5mm2 socket radial backed by 20A or 4mm2 when backed by 32A

In the UK we have either TN-S where the live , neutral , earth are all separate ( neutral and earth are tied together at the sub transformer ) and the newer one is the TNC-S system where the neutral and earth are combined from the sub transformer and onwards and called a PEN conductor
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Old 04-04-2014, 02:41 PM #1002
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Standard service here is two phase 120V (single phase 240), being three conductors of around 4ga from the pole pig; Live, Antiphase Live, and Neutral. The Neutral line is tied to earth at the household junction box. Some installations also tie it to earth at the pole pig (but not ours). Household interior wiring can be one of three sizes; 10ga for 25A, 12ga for 20A, or 14ga for 15A. Lighting runs are typically done in 14ga, and most houses have 12ga for general sockets and appliance runs. If the appliance is to need more than 20A the practice is to design it for 240V and use a stepdown transformer at the product so that the wiring never sees more than 20A. Since only single phase 120 is delivered to most outlets the loading of the two phases is to be balanced by evenly splitting and distributing the circuits among the two phases. Three conductors are all that is ever used in US household standard wiring: Live Neutral Earth for 120V and Live Antiphase-Live Neutral for 240V. Some nonstandard and legacy systems have four conductors for single phase 240 though; Live Antiphase-Live Neutral Earth, but it is frowned against as this is the standard for single phase 480V or two phase 240V.

I believe the modern specification for voltage drop is that it has to stay above >91V, which is a 24.2% drop in voltage. This is the rating we have to design products for anyway, and the point at which UPS systems kick in.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:23 AM #1003
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Wink Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Woa, 2 phase 120Vac and single phase 240Vac in North America I had no idea parts of the US had that system...
In my original home in Canada we have single phase 120Vac and what is often referred to as "dual" phase 230/240Vac at 30A as a standard. Single phase 240Vac is what we've got here in S.Korea at 25A, with some newer homes (Apt) going up to 30A. This is the same as UK, China and many parts of Europe.

I used to work with an electrician while in my 2nd-5th years at University btw.


btw, a little off topic, but related, I've seen countless electrical fires here, as many buildings are still using aluminium wiring or are illegally sharing breaker boxes or modifying the breaker panels.
18ga wiring makes a wonderful stove top element with a 30A draw..


Our local gym burnt down 2 months ago from a running short. They hired a
cheap electrician who used thin ga wiring and ran along the ceiling carrying 3x the current rating of the wires.
One cold afternoon in January on Saturday while patrons were working out, the ceiling caught fire. Good thing there were no fatalities.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Sigurthr View Post
Standard service here is two phase 120V (single phase 240), being three conductors of around 4ga from the pole pig; Live, Antiphase Live, and Neutral. The Neutral line is tied to earth at the household junction box. Some installations also tie it to earth at the pole pig (but not ours). Household interior wiring can be one of three sizes; 10ga for 25A, 12ga for 20A, or 14ga for 15A. Lighting runs are typically done in 14ga, and most houses have 12ga for general sockets and appliance runs. If the appliance is to need more than 20A the practice is to design it for 240V and use a stepdown transformer at the product so that the wiring never sees more than 20A. Since only single phase 120 is delivered to most outlets the loading of the two phases is to be balanced by evenly splitting and distributing the circuits among the two phases. Three conductors are all that is ever used in US household standard wiring: Live Neutral Earth for 120V and Live Antiphase-Live Neutral for 240V. Some nonstandard and legacy systems have four conductors for single phase 240 though; Live Antiphase-Live Neutral Earth, but it is frowned against as this is the standard for single phase 480V or two phase 240V.

I believe the modern specification for voltage drop is that it has to stay above >91V, which is a 24.2% drop in voltage. This is the rating we have to design products for anyway, and the point at which UPS systems kick in.
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Old 04-05-2014, 06:00 AM #1004
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

The problem with Al is that it has to be done right, which often times it is not. There is a special grease
that needs to be applied to prevent corrosion and then wire brushed to remove the oxide layer. Generally,
it isn't even used anymore here in the US, except for very heavy gauges. I had to run some 3/0 to the
garage because the price of copper is so out of control.
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Old 04-05-2014, 02:12 PM #1005
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seoul_lasers View Post
Woa, 2 phase 120Vac and single phase 240Vac in North America I had no idea parts of the US had that system...
In my original home in Canada we have single phase 120Vac and what is often referred to as "dual" phase 230/240Vac at 30A as a standard. Single phase 240Vac is what we've got here in S.Korea at 25A, with some newer homes (Apt) going up to 30A. This is the same as UK, China and many parts of Europe.

I used to work with an electrician while in my 2nd-5th years at University btw.


btw, a little off topic, but related, I've seen countless electrical fires here, as many buildings are still using aluminium wiring or are illegally sharing breaker boxes or modifying the breaker panels.
18ga wiring makes a wonderful stove top element with a 30A draw..


Our local gym burnt down 2 months ago from a running short. They hired a
cheap electrician who used thin ga wiring and ran along the ceiling carrying 3x the current rating of the wires.
One cold afternoon in January on Saturday while patrons were working out, the ceiling caught fire. Good thing there were no fatalities.
30A standard service ? are you referring to what the mian incoming fuse is rated at ? , In the UK they are commonly 60 , 80 or 100A service heads in the house @ 230V . We have a 80A service head in my house

Then large buildings are 100A Plus with 400V 3 Phase / 230V single phase , Voltage is a allowed to be +10% , -6% and when running cables , maximum voltage drop is 3% on lighting circuits - 6.9V and 5% on power circuits - 11.5 volts .

They began using AL for a while now on the TNC-S supply systems in the UK with 2 core concentric AL cable to supply each house from the feed in the street .
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:54 PM #1006
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Red face Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ionlaser555 View Post
30A standard service ? are you referring to what the mian incoming fuse is rated at ? , In the UK they are commonly 60 , 80 or 100A service heads in the house @ 230V . We have a 80A service head in my house

Then large buildings are 100A Plus with 400V 3 Phase / 230V single phase , Voltage is a allowed to be +10% , -6% and when running cables , maximum voltage drop is 3% on lighting circuits - 6.9V and 5% on power circuits - 11.5 volts .

They began using AL for a while now on the TNC-S supply systems in the UK with 2 core concentric AL cable to supply each house from the feed in the street .
whoops, no the main breaker in my house in Canada is fused for 250A.
In the Apt here in Seoul it is 80A rated

Sorry ..should have been more clear.
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Old 04-06-2014, 01:00 AM #1007
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

It is amazing the power ranges across the world. I know I was speaking to a coiler in Russia who was asking why all my coils are <5kW, and he couldn't understand why I hadn't done any "normal" 7kW coils. I had to explain how if I tried to pull 7kW from a single phase (one half my distribution panel!) my house would catch fire.
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:28 AM #1008
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Default Re: Tesla Coil Build Thread

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