Quadcopter Builds

Yeah your TX range shouldn't be an issue unless you're doing really long range missions and stuff. I've heard of anywhere from 1-3km range. FPV drops out long before that without amplification.

I'd honestly rather have remote high res photos than FPV and with the extra channels on that radio kit and the huge payload I think I'll be able to do that easy.

Didn't realize the 9x had such range, the cheap Txs barely got 50meters.

If you don't have a smaller, lightweight camera capable of remote triggering, have a look at the CHDK project. It can run on many cheap, lightweight Canon point and shoot cameras, and allows you to remote control them by applying 5V to the USB power pins. I have my camera set up on the camera trigger port of the APM, but you could just use a relay on one of the RX/TX channels to trigger it.

Ya I figured an unused channel could probably support a few mA draw and I'd just DIY a relay or one shot switch.

I'll look into that project, thanks! I don't have a cam but just figured on grabbing one at some point. I figure they've got to be on the market now if standalone FPV units are.


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As you're probably aware, the output from the RX is PWM, so you'll need a microcontroller to decode the PWM and provide a simple on/off to drive the relay. Pretty sure you can get prebuilt modules to do this really cheap too.

Is the PWM signal always active? I was thinking it would be triggered by a signal from the Tx as else the quiescent current would be much higher than necessary. A simple low pass filter directly yields a usable TTL signal.

But a neat off the shelf unit is even better! Pop it in and bob's your uncle!


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Yeah it's always active, you'll need a uC to do it unfortunately.

I picked up a controller from eBay for like 30$. Supports a decent current draw with a wide range of voltage inputs. It's what turns my led on.

Turnigy TX Controlled Relay Switch

Will do nicely.

Ah, look at that simple and cheap! Very nice.

Silly way to engineer the channels on a limited power device (having always on channels) but I guess no one misses <50mA on a 2Ah cell.

Now I really can't wait to get my tax return, heh.

Realistically compared to the power draw of your motors, the RX basically doesn't exist to the batteries

Even at a steady hover without anything extra attached my copter will draw about 20A or so.

Aye, but I would think it matters a lot in the micro/nano world with 100-300mAh cells!

The micro/nano copters typically have the receiver built right onto their main control PCB. Having the extra channels active but not actually driving anything wouldn't add much extra power draw.

I just ordered one of those SK450 quads, keen to see what it's like

Update to the flying lawn mower. Added a tilt mount for the gopro. Will be switching this to a board camera soon so there isnt that much stress on the servo. Also will allow me to finally put my gopro back in its case and just have it sitting up above the avionics rack for filming and the board camera for FPV.

Don't mind the large quantity of zip ties! This is still temp.


Camera doesn't pick up that screen very well but you should be able to see how smooth it works and also see the camera staying level.

Best part is I can adjust it with the Chn 6 pot so during flight I can slew the camera down or up. It will remain where I leave it as if it were level so if its down and I tilt the copter forward it will remain facing down instead of facing aft.

Nice work on the camera mount, Speedy! What FPV package is that?

Ordered the Hubsan X4 H107L today. I wanted an good indoor quad as it will be about three months before it is dry outside (downside of living up here.. after nine months of snow there's up to two months of mud).

I'm putting away about $400 to be used on a full size outdoor quad (+ charger, +LiPos, + radio). I still like that IFLY4 by Ideafly and the Turnigy 9x radio system best so far, but I'm concerned the ESCs used on it are insufficient. The replacement motors are rated at 16A peak but only 10A ESCs are used.... There don't seem to be reports of problems though. It has even been tested to easily handle a 500g payload, which is right up my alley. The frame easily supports any batteries or payload I want to use and has nice extended landing gear - huge pluses in my book. Does anyone know what all is involved in changing out ESCs? I probably won't have to but it is good to explore all avenues.

I'm tempted by the SK450 Things posted as it is really nice Motors, frame, and ESCs, but I looked up info on the FC and it seemed overly complex to tune/calibrate and couldn't find if it was 6axis (like the IFLY FC) or only 3 axis. Also, the frame won't fit the 6Ah or 6Ah cells I plan on using. Does anyone have any input on the KK2.0 Flight Controller? Any idea about the payload weight of the SK450? I could mod the battery compartment and buy extended landing gear, but it isn't really worth it unless the payload and FC outclass the IFLY-4's.

Its the Boscom 500mW 5.8 transmitter with a generic receiver. (soon to upgrade antennas for better distance and signal quantity. Hooked to the gopro (obviously) and then feeding a 5 inch lcd on my radio. The ESC rating is average rating. Mine are 20A but can easily run 40 or so amps for short periods. Most of the time you will be in a hover and not full throttle so you will remain below your 10A rating. I have at 40A which is 6.6A per ESC. Changing esc's is as simple as the plugging in some wires. If the prop doesn't go the right way you revers two wires and viola.

My buddy has the kk2 on his tri. If you went that rout get the programmer because the stock firmware blows. It works but autolevel is terrible. He flys in aero mode. So when you release the sticks it stays in that configuration. I can only fly in aero in fpv. Im not that great flying like that los to the copter.