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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Computer spec's

Joined
Jul 2, 2011
Messages
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What I have now

Intel Core 2 quad CPU Q8200 2.33GHz

4gb DDR2 Ram

NVIDA GeForce 9500 GT

500gb Hard drive

17" Monitor

Idk what power supply it has

What I would like to get when I have the money ($1,600)


Intel® Core™ i7-3770K Processor (4x 3.50GHz/8MB L3 Cache) - Intel Core i7-3770K (10% overclock)

8gb DDR3 Ram

NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 - 3GB - EVGA Superclocked - Core: 1046MHz

Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-V LX

1000 Watt power supply

120 GB ADATA S510 SSD (primary)

2 TB HARD DRIVE -- 64M Cache, 7200rpm, 6.0Gb/s (slave)

24" LED 1920x1080 -- Sceptre E246W-1080P

Liquid CPU Cooling System [SOCKET-1155] - ARC Dual Silent High Performance Fan

and noise reduction stuff

Thoughts, suggestions?




p.s. keyboard is Razer Lycosa and Mouse is Razer Deathadder



p.s.s. If you are having wrist pain and are on the computer a lot try a better quality mouse, it worked for me :D.
 





sinner

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Oct 27, 2011
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I think gadgets list would be great.. On the more relevant note, a 2-Yr old Ci3 Hp ProBook with stock 2Gigs of Ram does it for me!
 
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
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2tb 7200 sata hd
16 gb ddr 1600 sdram

6mbsmart cache
beats audio
companion 5 bose speaker sub
27 dell high def led monitor
 
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
3,181
Points
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2tb 7200 sata hd
16 gb ddr 1600 sdram

6mbsmart cache
beats audio
companion 5 bose speaker sub
27 dell high def led monitor
 
Joined
Oct 18, 2013
Messages
911
Points
63
ASUS G75VW with 17" 1080p 3D display.

2.4Ghz Core i7 quad core
12GB DDR3-1600
GeForce 670M 3GB GDDR5
240GB SSD + 750GB HDD
 
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
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Intel Core i7-4770 3.4 GHz Quad

Big ass heatsink and fan

Asus Maximus VI Hero ATx LGA1150

Corsair XMS3 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600

Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" SSD

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM

Asus GeForce GT 640 2GB

5x Courgar Turbine case fans

+wireless, optical drive etc.

Dual 22" Asus VS229H-P LCDs

Once you go dual, you'll never go back to one.

All for only $1.4k shipped
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2013
Messages
2,655
Points
63
LOL, this isn't a "show off your junk" thread. He's asking for tips on what he should get. :crackup:

Don't get a generic PSU. If that goes bad, it can potentially take the whole computer out with it. 1000W is big time overkill. I'm running a 6 core i7 on half that. It also has a GTX 460, 4x 2GB RAM, and lots of other peripherals. Just read some reviews on it before buying.

Also, on the motherboard I would recommend either Intel or Gigabyte.
 

NKO29

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Jun 6, 2013
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A good power supply is more about the efficiency. Just like laser drivers, the highest efficiency PSU (driver) will create less heat and last longer. Take a look at ratings... bronze silver gold etc.
 

SKeeZ

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Sep 2, 2013
Messages
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jSL1iDl.jpg


AMD FX 8350 @ 4.8GHZ
HD7970 GHZ Ed.
24GB ddr3 ram OC'd
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 Mobo
1TB Segate Baracuda that wont die
Full custom watercooling

Periferals:
2X 23in. Asus IPS panels
Corsair M65
dasKeyboard Model S (Cherry MX Blue keyswitches)
7.1 Surround Infinity Speakers W/ Yamaha RX-V730 Amp

Heaven DX11 benchmark score W/ max settings, tesslation dissabled @ 1920x1080:
3972

Sorry if i just stomped on everybody...
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Messages
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Yes, efficiency is important. Take a look at the ratings, but not just the efficiency ratings. Let's say we have 2 power supplies running at the same wattage. PSU A is a cheap generic 1000W Long Dong Schlong™ claiming to have a 95% efficiency rating. PSU B is a AssTech™ 500W model with high quality components and has an actual 90% efficiency. PSU A's real efficiency is actually 91%, but hey whatever it's still more, right? So we have 91% on PSU A and 90% on PSU B under current load conditions (and the same load on both). Now we run them for a while and whoops, the fan dies on PSU A because it was a cheap fan. Or perhaps maybe it never worked in the first place and nobody remembered to check? There is no alarm feature to warn of this condition. This is not something you are likely to notice either because fans these days are quiet and sometimes the CPU fan will cover the sound of the PSU fan. You would actually have to put your hand behind it or see it to know weather it was working or not.

Now PSU A and B are both the same size, so it doesn't matter that PSU A has a higher wattage rating than PSU B. The same heat is being produced in the same area (actually more in the case of B, but only because of lower efficiency, NOT because of the lower wattage because they are both running at 450W.) So anyway, PSU A overheats and fails in a spectacularly horrific way, taking whatever it was powering with it, while the "underdog" continues churning away with no problems. This does happen. I have seen it happen.

Now I can hear someone whining, "well that's not fair because the fan was still working on PSU B." Well, okay then let's up the Antec. Say later on that now the fan in PSU B fails. Sure even high quality components can fail. I'll admit that. But PSU B does not fail! Why not you ask? Well, PSU B had provisions to detect this failure and shut itself down before any damage could occur. So that a double fail on PSU A.

Let's keep going. Let's say that it did not have this provision, or that the circuitry involved was nonfunctional, or your cat spilled kitty litter on it, or there was kitty litter at the factory when they were soldering it, or some kitty litter got caught in the fan and projectiles of kitty litter were thrown at the circuit board and disabled it. Maybe that explains how the fan failed in the first place. So you say Ha Ha! But I say Ha Ha, because PSU B also has a thermistor to detect the overheat condition and still shuts down safely. Triple fail.

Let's go one more. Let's say that all the aforementioned safety provisions in PSU B are nonfunctional. PSU B overheats and dies. However, all of the things attached to it are still safe because PSU B was very well designed and such a failure was anticipated and compensated for.
 

SKeeZ

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Did i just read all that... Yep i think i did and ill go with PSU B. But lets say PSU A and B are equal eff. Of 90% But psu A is 1000W and B, 500W that means PSU A has to get rid of 100 watts of heat and PSU B has to get rid of just 50. Hmmm. Maybe those figures are a bit high but it makes PSU B look even better :)
 
Joined
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SKeeZ your claim is not correct: the amount of power wasted is based on the power that you use -- not the maximum power rating of the PSU. These are switched power supplies -- like those step up/down (buck/boost) drivers of lasers. They only deliver the power that is needed, and the efficiency reflects how much power actually gets delivered and not wasted. A 500W PSU providing 300W of power at 90% is the same as a 1000W PSU delivering 300W at 90%.

All things equal, you should choose a PSU based on the average power loads your system uses. You want your PSU power rating to be about 1.5x the average power you utilize in your computer. This is because near the low and high end of the PSU power range the efficiency drops as depicted in the graphs of this article. The extra headroom also accounts for the power needed during peak performance such as when you're playing games that utilize your GPU(s).

I find that my system (sans monitors) uses only about 250-300W on average (using a Kill-a-Watt, so there are some efficiency calcs missing), and maybe 450W peak if I'm playing a stressful game. Still, I actually ended up buying an Antec 750W TP-750 Blue, because it has at least 82% efficiency over loads from 25%-100%, lots of power for me to expand, and most importantly, it is very quiet!

I was using a Seasonic 600W before and it was a very nice and quiet PSU, but needed a PSU for a server, and opted to just hand-me-down the one from this machine to the server and buy a new one. The Seasonic went into the server, but I had to replace its dying fan with a new one. Though the Seasonic is a good brand, a half decade of near-constant use will kill any fan. Ironically, it's probably my server that has the worst efficiency of all the systems, as it is only using 60W total power before conversions at the PSU, but using a 600W PSU.

Will that TP-750 Blue ever pay for itself in efficiency over a cheaper supply? Not sure. Most cheap supplies are actually pretty decent, around 75% in efficiency. At 7cents/kWh, each watt I save translates into about 60 cents saved per year. I don't know if that 7% extra efficiency really justifies the cost of the better supply in the not-so-long run at 350W average power use. Maybe after 10 years it'll pay for itself -- assuming I use the PSU that long. I'd probably get more being more diligent about turning off lights. Certainly the efficiency of the Seasonic wouldn't justify the new PSU, as it already had > 80% efficiency.
 
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Never skimp on a PSU.

I'd rather get a good and well reviewed 500-650W PSU instead of a 1000W AssTech PSU. Voltage spikes and poor regulation are fatal to power sensitive components.

I'd also get a good 500-650W PSU instead of a good 1000W PSU just because of the sheer price.
 
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
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Agreed go for a good PSU , I skipped that part on my PC and it died not long after folding with 2 HD 7950's ,
 




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