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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Computer Design

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So I'm getting a bunch of money in the very near future, and I've decided to build myself a high end computer for doing gaming as well as some 3D animation and video editing work. I'll lay out the parts I plan on getting:

Intel Core i7-4930K 3.4Ghz 6 Core (Ivy Bridge, LGA2011)

ASUS Sabertooth X79 LGA2011 Motherboard

Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB (4X4GB) DDR3-1600 Low profile ram
(4 sticks for quad channel, low profile so it fits with the CPU cooler I've chosen)

EVGA GeForce 780 TI Superclocked 3GB

Samsung 840 Pro 512GB SSD

SeaGate Barracuda 3TB 7200 RPM HDD

LG Blu-Ray Writer

Arctic Freezer i30 CPU Cooler

Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste

Corsair HX1050 1050 Watt modular PSU

Antec Twelve Hundred V3 case (blue)

So, while I consider myself very proficient with computers, theres definitely people out there with more experience with me, so if your one of those people and you have any suggestions or comments then I would greatly appreciate any feedback!
 
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Zeebit

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Why that particular cpu cooler? A premade closed-loop liquid cooler is better than the top performing air coolers. Get an H100i or something similar and you can OC that cpu to make it a little more futureproof. You can also use high profile RAM if you go liquid.

Just my two cents, I don't like the looks of Antec cases. I much prefer Corsair.
 
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Liquid cooling is way more work than I want to do for cooling. I chose that particular cooler because it has the best rating on NewEgg (I'm ordering everything from there just to keep it all in one order) and its supposed to keep CPUs plenty cool while being quiet.

Also I don't plan on overclocking. Seems like too much risk on a 600$ CPU just for a few Mhz performance gain.
 

Zeebit

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Your choice.

Actually, it is not difficult to install a closed loop liquid cooler. You don't have anything to fill and prime. Just mount the radiator and the waterblock. Done. Its also quiet. Much quieter than most of the cheaper air coolers.

Its a shame that you don't want to OC that beast of a cpu. Its not necessary but you can squeeze more performance out of it when the time comes it becomes slow for the softwares of the time.
 
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Hmm I guess they don't look too difficult to install. I think a lot of it is paranoia about having liquid inside an expensive electronic device. :p
 

Zeebit

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Its closed loop. Nothing to worry about.

You could get away with something like a 600W-700W PSU then spend the extra on the liquid cooler. If you don't plan on doing a multi-monitor setup, a 2GB card is more than enough.
 
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Money is no issue. I'll keep the same setup and just substitute the Arctic cooler.
Was looking at the Cooler Master Seidon 240M closed loop water cooler. It has a large dual-fan radiator (I checked, it will fit inside the case I chose) and it seems to have excellent reviews.

EDIT: seems like on all the different brands of closed loop coolers that theres a few reviews by people who have had problems saying that customer support is terrible.
 
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Zeebit

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H100i all the way. You can swap the stock fans with SP120 fans. These produce more static pressure and are quiter. Or you could get Noctua fans which are made for maximum static pressure. I forgot the model. Those look fugly but its the best fans you can get.

You also get the Corsair Link. Its a pretty neat software.
 
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H100i Looks nice. Though according to the specifications the stock fans have a higher static pressure than the SP120 fans.
 

Zeebit

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Most folks replace the stock fans with SP120s. That might be an error on the specs but I've seen test on youtube that the SP120s perform better. You probably won't need these unless you are overclocking the crap out of your CPU and need better fans. The stock ones are fine for the most part.
 
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Says "Dual SP120L fans" lol. But regardless it seems to keep big hot AMD CPUs cool so it should have no trouble keeping the i7-4930K cool.
 
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Edit: TL;DR: you can use warranty length as ameasure of drive quality, and personally I dislike Seagate, but that's based on my experiences.


You might consider raid, or a nicer hard drive, enterprise class. Lately, it seems desktop drive quality has been lacking, and in my limited experience, I've had 3-4 times as many seagate drives go out as western digital.

To be fair, lots of our old equipment came with seagates, because they are cheap. But as an example, we have a handful of seagate raid 1 blackarmor nas boxes. both drives in several units have failed, and a couple of the RMA replacements have failed already as well. We've lost data on one of the devices and no longer use them for important data.

We bought a synology at around the same time, loaded with WD Red, which are supposed to be noisy, but somehow optimized for NAS use (I still think that's marketing, but I digress). Hasn't failed yet, been going on 3 years 24/7/365.

Basically, I personally dislike seagate, but more so, I think I really just hate how consumer drives, green drives, nas drives, etc., are built to low standards, when the manufacturers have the ability to make a better product. So, just get a 5yr warrantied drive. I think the barracudas are 1yr warranties. Same with WD green (bleh). Blue used to be 3 years, and black used to be 5 years. But just like seagate, WD has to make money and cut losses too.
WD Support / Warranty Services / End User / Worldwide Warranty Policy and Limitations < WD puts their warranty policy on their website. Seagate you need to go digging, and I've run out of lunchtime.
 
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1050W is overkill for your setup, especially if you're not going to overclock.

22h9.png


Since money isn't an issue, you could take down the wattage a few notches for a really high quality PSU with a Platinum or Titanium rating.
 

Zeebit

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I don't think bard drive brand matters. In fact, my 500GB and 80GB WD HDDs just died a few months ago. Right now I'm on 40GB :eek:

If you look at the stats, the failure rates between brands are very close. Just choose the cheapest you can get.
 
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hmm. I'll stick with the PSU purely because I like a large overhead on my power capabilities, and because in the future I'll likely want to add another 4X4GB of ram, possibly a 2nd GeForce 780 TI (For using GPU renderers in Maya), and possibly a RAID 10 setup for the HDD's. Also I don't think that PSU calculator is accurate because the i7-4930K is 130 Watts plus the 780 TI is 250 so thats 380 there plus all the other components and the amount of cooling fans the case has.

Interesting though about the SeaGate HDD's and HDD's in general. I'll do some more browsing and see if I can find one with a better warrenty, perhaps get 2 decent ones and set them up to mirror each other for redundancy in case one does fail
 
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definitely stick with ~1000w PSU if you are opting for SLI 780ti cards, although 800w would be more than sufficient. i went through this debate with my SLI GTX 780 cards, but opted for FSP 1000W Gold+ rated supply as i have quite a hefty overclock on CPU, GPUs and RAM.

Can your application support 6 cores?
 




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