Possible First Car

GSS said:

Wow, thats a bummer I wonder if thats true here in MA. I thought the workers actually enjoyed doing it, it got them out of the store for a bit. Did they explain why? Also as far as you know the converter isnt showing signs of an exhaust leak right?

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No it isn't, haha. My mom suggested I take it to another shop to have it inspected, but I don't really want to spend another $120 to have the same problem told to me twice

-Alex

LeHap said:

No it isn't, haha. My mom suggested I take it to another shop to have it inspected, but I don't really want to spend another $120 to have the same problem told to me twice

-Alex

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There has to be someplace to check the code for free. No super rush just take your time and ask along

GSS said:

There has to be someplace to check the code for free. No super rush just take your time and ask along

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Well the place actually is going to cost me $1300 to get it fixed(I already paid for diagnostics so that saves me $200).

I asked if the engine couldn't be the problem that caused it & they said there isn't really a way to check

-Alex

Hope you get it sorted , I had a code read once and was told what I all ready knew was the problem in the first place :/


Is the CAT overheating or just flagging up and error ?

In some cases if the engine is burning oil it can cause the CAT to heat up more than normal too .

LeHap said:

Well the place actually is going to cost me $1300 to get it fixed(I already paid for diagnostics so that saves me $200).

I asked if the engine couldn't be the problem that caused it & they said there isn't really a way to check

-Alex

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Lehap just dont rush yet. Yes its not good to drive a car a long time with the check engine light on but you have time as it just came on. Listen to your mom and take your time. Plus wait for repleys here. OB2 readers are dirt cheap at Harbor Freight tools "something to think about" Always go with a 2nd opinion;;Also tacking on the $200 diagnostic check to a job they want to do on top of the $1300 just doesnt sound right

GSS said:

Lehap just dont rush yet. Yes its not good to drive a car a long time with the check engine light on but you have time as it just came on. Listen to your mom and take your time. Plus wait for repleys here. OB2 readers are dirt cheap at Harbor Freight tools "something to think about" Always go with a 2nd opinion;;Also tacking on the $200 diagnostic check to a job they want to do on top of the $1300 just doesnt sound right

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Well I paid $112 for a level 1 diagnostic check & which would cancel that amount off the price if I get it fixed at their location.

I can't really afford to drive to different places to get it checked out to see if it really is the problem or not. They told me it failed the temperature test and was partially clogged or somethin....

-Alex

LeHap said:

I went to AutoZone & they stopped doing check engine light test unfortunately, they only sell the device to read the codes.

-Alex

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Well, then, it's time to buy one. I have this.....Amazon.com: Actron CP9180 AutoScanner Plus Diagnostic Code Scanner with Live, Record and Playback Data Capability and O2 Monitor Test for OBDII Vehicles: Automotive, but it's no longer available. That's ok, as it costs almost as much as a power window.

But lesser models are available , e.g. the 9125 for under $60. There are other suitable brands too.

Now why am I suggesting that you buy your own scanner? Pretty much for the same reason I suggested earlier that you buy a service manual for your car. To learn about it.

Scan tools are great. While they don't fix the car and only tell you what codes are in the computer <--- that's the point. They tell you what's in the computer. On my last car purchase I told the sales man that I needed to read the codes in the computer before I would buy the car.

Now that doesn't always work, as codes can set anytime. And the dealer can clear the codes before you see the car, but I felt better doing it anyway.

The really good thing about scanners/readers is that they can 'clear' codes too. Why would you want to 'clear' a code? Well to see if the problem is really there or maybe it was just a fluke. (I would need a few paragraphs to explain the 'fluke').

There is a caveat here, that on some cars "Honda's" in particular (ask me I know) only a dealer should clear the codes. The generic scanner/reader is a bit of a brute force tool and it will clear ALL of the codes in the Honda computer. Even the ones that make the car driveable. Honda has layered it's memory and only a Honda reader/scanner can separate the layers. Grrr. a Honda scanner is about $8000.

But even at that, I can verify that there really is the code in there and that I'm not being railroaded. Not to say you are.

So now, a question for you. How did you come to realize there was a problem? (1) did a warning light come on, on the dash? (2) did you notice a problem driving, idling, etc? (3) was it the repair man?

If you plan to keep this car - (1) buy a service manual (2) buy a scanner (3) join a Volvo forum or two.

Thanks for your input^

It started about 2 days ago when I started the car & saw a check engine light come on. The next day, I went to an Chevron Xpress Lube & they pulled up a 420 code catalytic converter. The person at the station instructed me the car was fine to run for awhile(years) with that I left.

I then went over to have a diagnostic level 1 done at the garage which fixed the alternator and they told me the CAT is failing the temperature test and is getting pretty hot underneath & this could be a partially clogged CAT. The car runs fine, but it seems to have pretty bad MPG(although that may be my imagination).

I was then told labor with a new part would run me about $1300 since I only need the upstream part of the CAT or something....



-Alex

It's pretty easy to determine if the exhaust system is partially blocked. Think of the CAT like a muffler.

A collapsed muffler will restrict the exhaust flow and hurt performance. The car may feel sluggish where it didn't before. This is most noticeable when accelerating or at highway speeds when you ask for some speed to pass a car. Your mention of poor gas mileage (if true) is a clue of something not being right.

Does your car exhibit any of this?

Since the muffler is downstream of the CAT, be sure it's not the muffler. As a restricted muffler will cause a back pressure in the system and upset the flow of exhaust through the CAT as well. Is your muffler newish?

Also verify that the oxygen sensors are good before you deep six the CAT. They are expensive, but way way cheaper than a CAT replacement.

On some cars you can check an oxygen sensor with an ohmmeter (I have done it), but that's where the pesky service manual comes into play.

I would like to add this youtube video. It's very very informative. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VZ5K8n5jj0

Buy an electric car and mod it to take a few solar panels and bam! You will have more laser than gas for your car.