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Old 11-04-2010, 09:48 PM #785
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pontiacg5 View Post
What exactly is not fitting right? I sent them all assembled and they all fit fine for me.

The threads are a non standard size, I'm not sure you'll be able to find a tap. I can't remember exactly but I think they are M20x1.25
I have tried every single unit and 97% of them have burrs on the intitial thread or something that makes it so it does not thread easily. I can't believe that these left your hands without you having seen how difficult it is to thread these heads if you can get them to go. I have found a tap of the size you have specified but I need to know for sure what the dimensions were supposed to be before I purchase them and start going over threads.

I have pictures of a few select heads and these are by no means "pick of the litter" I grabbed about 5 random heads and took pictures.

I even went to the public library to upload the pictures so that you and everyone could see it. CLICK ON THE PICTURES FOR BIGGER








this will get resolved folks don't worry about it.. it's just a speed bump. For those of you that have been on this ride before, you know that speed bumps happen and it takes a long time to get all these barrels finished from beginning to end. I however will keep everyone updated and nobody gets left in the dark (unless you don't monitor this thread.)



Last edited by Kenom; 11-04-2010 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 11-05-2010, 02:05 AM #786
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

That leading burr shouldn't cause a problem like that. The threads fit tight but every one of them I sent went together fine. You can't anodize the threads there because that would isolate the head (anodized aluminum does not conduct electricity.)

There is not a lot of thread to thread contact there. I don't know where you are seeing heads that won't thread on but those two pictures show all 100 grooves, all with heads threaded together. I believe the threads on the head should be tight which is why I made them that way. It's not a part that needs to be untreaded often, it has to hold tighter than the focusing ring otherwise you could unthread the head while trying to focus, and if it was to loose continuity during operation because it was too loose it would probably kill the diode.

If you chase them with a tap and die they will fit a whole lot looser than they do now, so much looser in fact that I would be afraid that it would cause a problem with continuity. A die will not hit that burr either, if you really want to clean that off you need to hit it with a file. A quick brush on a polishing wheel will knock them off too. I cut those threads with a single point bit, chasing those with a tap and die never works very good. I can't give you an exact thread size because I compensated the cutting point till I got a fit I liked but I started with the specs of a M20x1.25 thread. I don't know what the specs are supposed to be, but M20x1.25 was the closest even thread to match and fit the original you sent me.
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Old 11-05-2010, 02:44 AM #787
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Kenom ---

Every housing that I get from anywhere needs a little "touch-up" on the threads. Since they are often electrical connections, now sometimes ~ 2 AMPS, a tight fit is needed. I think Pontiacg5 explained it well and a touch with a needle file can remove a burr which was not found in machining.

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Old 11-05-2010, 04:25 AM #788
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

I have tried cleaning off the burrs and it did no good. I will try again however, I tried to get the tail section to screw into the same place and it wouldn't go either. I donno what to say other than the last batches I got from a different cnc shop worked smoothly with no issues directly from them so mikes argument that touch up needs to be done is not relevant in this case or they did the touch up before giving them to me. I would be happy to send one back to you and let you try to get it threaded. there is no physical evidence of misthreaded damage yet it won't fit on more than 1 revolution. I have even had others try and they couldn't do it themselves. I know they all arrived assembed and that's what makes it so weird. anywho, I will try to clean it up and see if that solves the problem.
also as to the de-threading when you adjust focus... the o-rings were added so that it had a nice tight fit making it so it didn't easily de-thread when focusing yet still allowing for a good electrical contact.

Last edited by Kenom; 11-05-2010 at 04:30 AM.
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:35 AM #789
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

If Pontiacg5 threaded all of them on, and you cannot Ken, maybe they only fit one end of the barrel? (just hopeful thinking)

But something doesn't sound right??
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:29 PM #790
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

I've still got at least 20 grooves here and not a single one has this problem and I kept the ones that were the tightest or roughest looking.

The tailcap won't thread into the head side of the barrell because I made those threads tighter. The head will thread into the tailcap side but it will be loose.

I do not think relying on an o-ring to keep the head from moving is a wise idea, especially when the focus ring uses a o-ring to keep a tight fit. That is one of the reasons I made those threads so tight.

I know they all fit when I sent them and all of the remaining ones I have here still thread fine. I'm not sure what exactly you are doing to clean the threads up but I would bet that is causing the problem.
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Old 11-05-2010, 03:06 PM #791
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Maybe each unit is unique, each head only goes with the body it was made from?
Could you be mixing them up?
I had a matching R,G,V set of hosts from eghmus. All were made the same, yet the tail caps would only thread to the host it was made with.
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Old 11-05-2010, 04:08 PM #792
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

The older generation Groove that I got a few months ago from Kenom wouldn't work if you tried to switch the head and the tail. The threading was slightly different so one end wouldn't go all the way on. Of course they thread nicely when the head is on the front and the tail is on the tail.
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Old 11-05-2010, 05:10 PM #793
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

I'm wondering if Pontiac's shop is warm, and Kenom's place is cold, or vice-versa?

I believe BOTH of you, and that might account for what's happening here. Close tolerances, and some thermal expansion/contraction.

Kenom, try placing a host in the fridge, or someplace warm like atop a TV, or near the stove and see what happens.

Also, aluminum/aluminum interfaces can suffer galling. That would make everything tough to turn.

Kenom, have you tried just assembling with some fine lubricant?

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Old 11-05-2010, 07:51 PM #794
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

^ I was just gonna suggest that. The barrels were manufactured near the end of summer and now Kenom you said your garage is pretty cold. Maybe its causing a tight fit. I have a old aluminum 532 pointer and it always goes severely out of focus outside in the cold which i believe is from the aluminum head contracting/expanding
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:32 PM #795
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Good call AJ... that makes the most sense so far. I have total confidence that this will get worked out though. Both Kenom and Pontiacg5 are great guys to deal with. We just might need to state the minimum operating temperature is 90 degrees F <---- yes that is a joke for those that miss the
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Old 11-05-2010, 09:09 PM #796
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Personally, I don't care if you anodize mine and ship it as-is. After mine is anodized I'll make the threads fit myself if needed. Then again, most people don't work in a CNC facility and have a lathe & mill in their basement.

Sometimes I'll get tight class 3 threads and I have to go around them with a scotcbhrite wheel to take a little material off. Sometimes a polishing wheel isn't enough.

I like the above selections though... heat the barrel and chill the head/tail to increase clearances.
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Old 11-06-2010, 05:18 AM #797
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

While we are all waiting I decided to get the last generation Groove built that I bought off of Kenom a few months ago (about time I finally build something with it).

I didn't like the idea of the pressure from the head spring putting pressure on the driver itself. I was also trying to figure out how to make sure the head spring does not bend and short/touch the metal part of the host. I decided to use this as an opportunity to give my new lathe a workout and find out if I am able to make anything at all on it. The spring I was using on the head is the same ones on the tail clicky which are very stiff.

I made a holder to support the head spring. I machined it out of transparent 1" acrylic rod (I didn't polish it after machining so it is just translucent). I used acrylic because I figured it would be easier to machine for my first lathe project. I got the holder for the spring idea from what I have seen Ehgemus create in the past for his hosts.
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Old 11-07-2010, 01:07 PM #798
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

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Old 11-07-2010, 01:14 PM #799
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

@xStatiCa In picture #2 the diode does not look like its totally pressed into the head could just be the lighting in the picture though.
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Old 11-07-2010, 02:35 PM #800
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Default Re: The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tysonc1979 View Post
@xStatiCa In picture #2 the diode does not look like its totally pressed into the head could just be the lighting in the picture though.
It actually wasn't. I ended up pulling the diode out yesterday and noticed that. I fried it trying to solder the driver on a second time. I tried to put the pins of the diode through the driver pin holes for better strength and ended up leaving the iron on it way too long (I don't have a solder sucker or braid to remove the old solder which was in the way of the hole). I figured I killed it and sure enough I did. The new diode is much further in now.

I decided to not mount the driver directly to the diode anymore and just use some short wires attached to the diode. This will allow me to solder and unsolder the diode if I ever need to again without subjecting the diode to as high of temperatures and soldering wire on is much easier to do for me. I like this method a lot better now after doing both methods.

I ended up frying that diode because I didn't like mounting the driver to the diode directly.
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The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.-firstlatheproject2.jpg   The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.-firstlatheproject1.jpg   The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.-diodepressed.jpg  

Last edited by xStatiCa; 11-07-2010 at 02:49 PM.
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