The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

Well, half are done!

That is indeed awesome! Can't wait to start anodizing.

i got a boner :yabbem:


those look awesome keep up the good work.

CrossOut said:

i got a boner :yabbem:


those look awesome keep up the good work.

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HEY HEY! keep it in yer pants...

SMIDSY said:

I think a more pressing matter is bloody drivers.... anyone know when Dr Lava will have some new V5s or a worthy substitute?!

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I spoke with drlava on 9/1 and on that day he went ahead and initiated another batch order for V5 FlexDrives due to popular demand!

He said it would be a month or so. Hopefully that means about 3 weeks from today...

In the mean time, there's nothing wrong with the Micro BoostDrives.

Even in a Kryton build, (with a blu-ray or a 445), you can use the diode case pin, and an isolated third wire that can feed the negative input of the driver...

OHH about that 3rd case pin, is it necessary to use? the previous lasers i built dont use them..

So you're saying you could wire the third pin back to the negative input on your driver board? I had not thought of that!

I was wondering how I was going to connect the negative input on my microboost to Aluminum....

How do others do it?

If you have a build that is easy to get your negative feed from the pill of the host (most flashlight modifications), then that is the way to go...

But if you have a host (like a Kryton), that does not have a pill that is threaded to the host for a path to negative, then you can use the case pin of the diode. (blu-ray or 445 diodes - floating pin diodes) Or in the case of a red build, the case pin is the negative... (but the Micro Boost is not for a red)

For a Kryton/MicroBoost/445 or 405, you must use an isolated third wire that connects to the negative input of the Micro Boost... (with a FlexDrive, the case pin can solder to the negative pin, and both can connect to either negative connection on the driver, but with a Micro Boost, it must be an isolated wire from the case pin to the driver negative input)

Here's a picture to illustrate:



With most blu-ray and 445 builds, you don't need to use the diode case pin...

But sometimes that case pin comes in handy! (like with a Kryton build, and some others)

Take a look at my tutorial that shows how I used the diode case pin to wire my dual flashlight/laser modification that is a case positive host: (in that situation, I used the diode case pin to power the driver positive input)
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/tutorial-blu-ray-laser-flashlight-combo-schweet-45385.html


One note:

It should be mentioned, that if you solder jump the larger resistor, then this connects the negative input with the negative output, and they will be the same trace...



But even so, I'd still recommend connecting the negative feed, only to the negative input when using a MicroBoost driver...

I always take the case pin and bend it so that it is in contact with the negative pin. Then when I solder the negative pin to the driver, it makes the case pin a negative connection as well.

Kenom said:

I always take the case pin and bend it so that it is in contact with the negative pin. Then when I solder the negative pin to the driver, it makes the case pin a negative connection as well.

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Just to avoid confusion, and to warn others...

This cannot be done using a Micro Boost driver... It is different than a FlexDrive...

Which is why I went through the whole explanation about the isolated wire to feed the negative input mumbo jumbo...

Never connect the Diode - to the battery -. ever
I use the case ground to connect to the battery - on a Microboost.
Why do I know? I did it .............. I learn the hard way every day.

HMike

Hemlock_Mike said:

Never connect the Diode - to the battery -. ever
I use the case ground to connect to the battery - on a Microboost.
Why do I know? I did it .............. I learn the hard way every day.

HMike

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Yes exactly what I was explaining Mike... (for a Micro Boost)

And with a Kryton, the easiest way to get to the 'case ground', is via the diode case pin. But it must be an isolated wire. And it must go to the Micro Boost negative input...

I've mentioned this in other threads, and for some reason every time I bring it up to try to help, there is a lot of confusion?? Probably just because everybody is so used to the FlexDrive, and don't realize that the Micro Boost is different. (negative must feed the input side only)

Using the diode case pin with an isolated wire to feed the driver negative input is needed for a Micro Boost/Kryton/445 build. (easiest approach anyway)

Ok, so having never used the microboost, what happens if you do connect the diode like listed above?

Kenom said:

Ok, so having never used the microboost, what happens if you do connect the diode like listed above?

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You mean if you connect the case pin of the diode to the negative pin?

Then it is just like by-passing the driver. (Micro Boost) But there may also be other things happening with the the driver itself. It is not supposed to get the battery negative connected to the negative output.

So it will most likely damage the driver...

Actually, I don't know for sure exactly what will happen. Because I have never connected it improperly...

But for sure it will not work...

Thanks for the visual jayrob.

It's what I thought you meant, but I appreciate the confirmation!

I was in a serious head-scratch mode as to how I was going to connect the negative input of my microboost to anodized aluminum. Solder would not stick very well.

AJ_Dual said:

Thanks for the visual jayrob.

It's what I thought you meant, but I appreciate the confirmation!

I was in a serious head-scratch mode as to how I was going to connect the negative input of my microboost to anodized aluminum. Solder would not stick very well.

Click to expand...

Getting power fom the case (in clean fashion) on my dual power pointer seemed like my biggest hurdle. I tried drilling a hole and tapping it for a brass/copper screw. It's harder to solder to a screw than you would think because all the heat sinks away from it into the surrounding material. :scowl: So on my dual power pen build in my sig, I drilled a hole that the case wire gets crushed into. Worked but it wasn't pretty, imo.

Wish I would've had Jayrob's insight into using the diode case pin. It seems so simple that I feel like an idiot for not realizing the diode had a ready-made solder point on it. Kinda comical actually... going through all the work and trouble wiring up a Flexdrive for dual power and then not realizing the case connection is the simplest problem to solve ever. :banghead: