The REAL Kryton GB round #3. Taking payments now.

xStatiCa · Aug 10, 2010

Has anyone seen a bigger laser somewhat close to the beast as bare polished before? It is very difficult for me to get a mental picture of the beast bare and polished.

psi seeker 34 · Aug 10, 2010

I really wanted a groove and I had the money for one as well but my mom found a really good price for my first car ($250) so untill I can use that car to get a job I'm out of money. :cryyy: So i think I'll have to drop out of this GB and wait for the next round unless it's possible to pay later. :yabbem:

xStatiCa · Aug 10, 2010

I am posting this because it is making me almost reconsider getting bare polished hosts.

I assumed that polished bare would operate cooler(without someone holding the laser) than black. This would be under the assumption that heat getting obsorbed because of the black color would be the biggest factor. I did not realize that emissivity (radiating of the heat away from the heatsink) is the biggest factor for cooling the host and a black host radiates the energy away from the host much better than a polished host. Am I the only one here that is surprised by the results of the first test below?

http://www.molalla.net/members/leeper/coatbar.htm

I had to read it twice before believing the results.

Kenom · Aug 10, 2010

this is pretty widely known. A black surface allows for better thermal transfer to air than a bare one. Adding an anodized surface makes that even better. So a black anodized surface is the best for transferring heat to air than a bare aluminum host.

When it comes to his testing with the polished vs. the rough surface this can easily be explained by added surface area with the blemishes and pits that are present in a non-polished surface. Surface area on the exposed surface plays more of an important role in effective heatsinking than mass. If an aixiz module were finned and not coated, but still had the same mass, it's heatsinking would be far superior.

LazyBeam · Aug 10, 2010

In general, speaking in terms of emissivity, most metals are piss poor IR emitters (radiant shedding of heat). That is why a chrome bumper, despite being so reflective, gets scortching hot sitting in the sun... it can't shed heat like polymeric coated metallic items.

If you want to help the emissivity of a metallic item (by about a factor of 10+) add an extremely thin (sub .001") layer of a polymer. The thinner you keep you keep the polymer, the less you hurt conductive and convective heat transfer.

AJ_Dual · Aug 11, 2010

To go with the build, I just ordered this AixiZ lens:

AixiZ

And I got the "full threaded" version so it would work with the external focus adapter bezel, this is what I want, correct? Then I'll just thread on the focus adapter and put a tiny drop of thread locker or RTV silicone so the lens moves in and out of the head/heatsink where the diode has been pressed in.

Everything sound kosher? Am I missing something? (I also asked them to verify it was the right 405/445nm coating in the order notes, mentioning I was an LPF member.)

Xtrm2Rick · Aug 11, 2010

AJ_Dual said:
To go with the build, I just ordered this AixiZ lens:

AixiZ

And I got the "full threaded" version so it would work with the external focus adapter bezel, this is what I want, correct? Then I'll just thread on the focus adapter and put a tiny drop of thread locker or RTV silicone so the lens moves in and out of the head/heatsink where the diode has been pressed in.

Everything sound kosher? Am I missing something? (I also asked them to verify it was the right 405/445nm coating in the order notes, mentioning I was an LPF member.)

i always use a little extra teflon tape on the focus knob side of the lens instead of threadlock, makes it hard to twist the lens in the focus knob or adapter but also hard to twist it out. and if you ever want to take the lens out you can stil get it out...with a little bit force

Kenom · Aug 11, 2010

sounds like you've got a good grasp on all that's needed.

AJ_Dual said:
To go with the build, I just ordered this AixiZ lens:

AixiZ

And I got the "full threaded" version so it would work with the external focus adapter bezel, this is what I want, correct? Then I'll just thread on the focus adapter and put a tiny drop of thread locker or RTV silicone so the lens moves in and out of the head/heatsink where the diode has been pressed in.

Everything sound kosher? Am I missing something? (I also asked them to verify it was the right 405/445nm coating in the order notes, mentioning I was an LPF member.)

Pontiacg5 · Aug 11, 2010

Xtrm2Rick said:
i always use a little extra teflon tape on the focus knob side of the lens instead of threadlock, makes it hard to twist the lens in the focus knob or adapter but also hard to twist it out. and if you ever want to take the lens out you can stil get it out...with a little bit force

I second this, Teflon is better than threadlocker. If you use threadlocker the lens will tend to sit on one side of the threads, it won't be perfectly concentric with the threads. That makes it rub up against the other threads, the diode pocket side, a little hard at one spot in a revolution. That can lead to a little unnecessary wear and tear and crap in or near the lens. Teflon does not do this, with the added bonus of being 100x easier to remove.

I will be cutting the threads on the tight side of the thread tolerance on the focus adapter side and a as loose as tolerances provide on the diode pocket side. On some lenses (plastic, some older 405nm coated, red glass lenses) you won't even need any Teflon or threadlocker. But the new 445 coated lens is a little smaller, so it might not need any Teflon, but be prepared to use a little.

AJ_Dual · Aug 11, 2010

I've got plenty of teflon tape. I'm from the "keep wrapping until it does not leak" school of DIY plumbing.

And I've got my Micro-Boost drive pre-set to 1000mA on order, as well as a 2600mAh 18560 Pila and charger from Lighthound. And some 370-560nm glasses from O-like coming with the 200mw 405 new-style Dilda I've got on order. (As a tide-me-over until I can assemble this Kryton. )

Uranium · Aug 12, 2010

I've got a Q.

What driver can I use with two 18650's in series? I can only find ones with a 5.5v input limit. Zener diodes and lm7805's aren't very good at handling current without heating...

Kenom · Aug 12, 2010

anything above 5.5v I would recommend going to the lm317 based drivers. tlv1117, lm350 etc.

Some pre-assembled drivers are already made that utilize these chips.. The rkcstr, the groove2..

xStatiCa · Aug 12, 2010

I think you should put some bare polished and anodized marble pics on the first post to intro people into the grooves. IMHO the 2 groove colors you show on the first post do not show the groove in a good color scheme

.

Uranium · Aug 12, 2010

Neither of those can handle 1A. I may have found a problem you oversaw. 0_0

Pontiacg5 · Aug 12, 2010

Uranium said:
Neither of those can handle 1A. I may have found a problem you oversaw. 0_0

There is enough room in the beast to run a full LM317 driver, there will be no problem finding a driver to use in the beast. It is also possible to run the batteries in parallel for a 3.6V supply for a boost driver with double the capacity of a 18650.

I am also working on a switchmode buck driver that would let you run almost any voltage you want. It will not be small enough to fit in any other host, but it will work nicely for the beast.

Uranium · Aug 12, 2010

No idea how you would run the batteries parallel in a tube. Still 1A is a lot of current for an un-heatsinked 317. Plus i was planning on buying a preset driver, because I cannot afford to blow a diode. Ugh, looks like a beast may be a no-go...

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