Kryton GB round 3! MULTIPLE HOSTS!

I've updated the first post with the true picture of the Block as it's been designed thus far.

Zom-B said:

When not built right (right as in the rckstr adj driver), you're going to loose 0.7V (0.3V if shottky) of the battery power. With linear drivers this is not harmful for the efficiency, as they work on current, not voltage. For switched drivers, the efficiency will go down a lot, as they work with power conversion.

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Hope you don't mind my adding my 2 pennies worth here...
Hmm. Not sure what you mean exactly. No matter what kind of driver you use, the power lost across the diode is being dissipated as wasted heat and ultimately results in some shortened battery life/run time and increased heat overall.
I have often wished that more of the hosts were built to make it mechanically impossible to reverse the battery - no diode needed. Of course this means you would have to have one version for neg ground and a different one for pos ground systems...
How about a Kryton reverse-proof host?

I honestly can't think of a way to accomplish this without making it extremely difficult. I'm open to suggestions but I think it will just be a wasted effort when you can accomplish this with a diode, voltage drop can be accounted for and overcome.

For a negative ground system, like blu's and reds, the spring would protrude from the tailcap end, and there would be an insulator disk, say ~.025" thick with a hole in it to only allow the battery button through to contact a flat contact below the driver PCB (or ecthed on the bottom of the driver PCB). SO when the battery is but in backwards the flat end (-) could not touch the contact through the hole. It might not even require any changes to the basic host, just the tailcap switch and driver assy. But then I don't have one to work with, I could be wrong about the difficulty... :-?

I got two flashlights from Ultrafire that do something similar.  It's just a really small lip which prevents the negative from making contact.



Note: This is not from the tailcap.  It goes between the head and the battery compartment.

Edit: Two Ultrafire flashlights from DX

sorry if this has already been asked, but the est price for the pocket($30), that can't include the flexdrive, can it?

robjdixon said:

The $30 won't include a flexdrive will it?

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Heh I don't think so! At $20 a pop, that would bring the price of the host down to less than $10. The only way I could achieve that kind of price would be if I produced thousands of them!!!

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Kenom said:

I've updated the first post with the true picture of the Block as it's been designed thus far.

Click to expand...

Good job Kenom, its much easier to see the updates without having to trudge thru hundreds of posts, especially when the thread gets up past 20 pages!

Ted

phoenix3200 said:

I got two flashlights from Ultrafire that do something similar. It's just a really small lip which prevents the negative from making contact.

Note: This is not from the tailcap. It goes between the head and the battery compartment.

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Yeah, That's the ticket! This can reduce the power dissipation in higher power reds by over 1/4W.

BTW, Kenom, these ARE some really beautiful hosts!

Thanks. I try to remain on cutting edge as far as function and aesthetics are concerned.

Kage said:

It might not even require any changes to the basic host, just the tailcap switch and driver assy.

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This could easily be accomplished in the Kryton Groove with a sandwich of 2 pcb's at the positive end.

One board's outer diameter is exactly the inner diameter of the barrel; and it has a central hole just slightly greater in diameter than the + battery button. This board has no copper.

The second board's outer diameter fits exactly in the hole in the Kryton's inner battery-retention wall. This one has copper on both sides - minus an insulating ring around the outside - for battery+ and driver+ connection. Gold-plate the battery side?

The two are sandwiched together, which forms a simple standoff insulator with a central terminal. It can be glued in to the barrel; or with another piece of pcb and judicious placements of copper and solder, securely soldered in place. (or simply held in place by the battery if you must)

works great in my Big Red and Ponderous Purple!

crude drawing supplied on request...

DanQ

Hey, Ken, for the Groove Barrels, can you update just the top screw on Aperture cap aswell?? just so it looks more sleek and professionally built. That would be great, and i think alot of people would be interested.








Tommy

Kage said:

[quote author=Zom-B link=1227146655/120#128 date=1228777706]When not built right (right as in the rckstr adj driver), you're going to loose 0.7V (0.3V if shottky) of the battery power. With linear drivers this is not harmful for the efficiency, as they work on current, not voltage. For switched drivers, the efficiency will go down a lot, as they work with power conversion.

Click to expand...

Hope you don't mind my adding my 2 pennies worth here...
Hmm. Not sure what you mean exactly. No matter what kind of driver you use, the power lost across the diode is being dissipated as wasted heat and ultimately results in some shortened battery life/run time and increased heat overall.
I have often wished that more of the hosts were built to make it mechanically impossible to reverse the battery - no diode needed. Of course this means you would have to have one version for neg ground and a different one for pos ground systems...
How about a Kryton reverse-proof host? [/quote]


What I mean is that if you use a linear driver to drive a 5.5V diode with 7.2V batteries at 100mA, then 1.7V will be absorbed by the driver. The batteries will be drained at a rate of 100mA. If you were to put a reverse polarity protection diode in series with the driver, the diode will absorb 0.7V and the driver 1.0V. The driver will still regulate 100mA and the batteries will still drain at the same rate. No extra heat is generated. It's just that the ratio of where power is dissipated as heat, has shifted partially to the diode.

When you use a switched driver (assuming 100% efficiency for simplicity), driving 100mA at 5.5V will require 100*5.5/7.2=76mA at 7.2V. The batteries drain at a rate of 76mA. Now, if you put the reverse polarity protection diode in series with the driver, then the driver will get 7.2-0.7=6.5V, at which point the driver will require 84mA. As you see, only with switching drivers, the batteries will drain faster.

With the 'right' kind of reverse polarity protection, you don't use a diode but a MOSFET to switch the driver on when the polarity is right. When the polarity is wrong, the MOSFET will just block current. The MOSFET usually creates a series resistance of between few ohms to less than one ohm in series with the driver, which is so small it can usually be ignored. Finding the right MOSFET at a reasonable price and size is the difficult part, and it seems rckstr succeeded at that.

For your beast are you also thinking of the idea of high W because I just bought a nice 3W IR c-mount and that beast would be niceeeeeee.

any idea when i can pay

yeah I was thinking a 3W or 5W would be nice in a handheld beasty. Hehehe.

You can pay me anytime you want but until I get some definitive prices, it's not going to do you any good unless you for sure wanna get a Kryton Groove. Those I will have more of soon.

Ken