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CNI GB 6th round!

Moptsp

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Thanks for the ideas guys! Right now what I have done, (though it's probably just temporary), is take some copper wire and from a spring. Then put it between the cap and the lens metal plate. So it's kinda like an aixiz module, (A spring is used in one, right?).

I think I got it adjusted pretty good. I shined it outside at some what far distance to see how it looked. The spot was probably about the size of an average drinking cup at the distance of about (I'm guessing here....) 180-200ft. Does that sound pretty good?

P.S. Lit my first match with a laser today. :D I know you all are way past this, but we all have our first!!!

@Glenn, Yeah. It's ok. It could have been rough shipping to get it outa wack.
For your image, sorry I didn't comment on it. I was a bit freaked about my laser lol.

That picture/setup probably goes to the top of your picture list! That blue is amazing. You sure know how to set up the laser beam angles!

I'm going to have to get a 473nm some time.

-Moptsp
 
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You can use pretty much anything. Just make sure it is something that will not get on the lens or melt or anything like that. I use a 2 part epoxy on most my lenses if I adjust them but If I think that I may want to fiddle with it later on then I use just a small dab of hot glue.

I would stay away from hot glue and epoxy. The aluminum sucks the heat away quickly so the glue dries before it has time to bond the lens nut in place unless you use a good amount, but that can get messy.

Epoxy works well but is permanent and can be problematic if you make a mistake.

I would recommend either a dab of silicone thermal adhesive or a drop of the rubbery fabric paint that can be found at Michael's or any other crafts store for about $1.89 per tube. And they come in colors... fluorescent yellow dries quickly under a violet laser.
Both adhere very well but can be removed easily if needed.

It helps to have one person at the end of the beam (longer distance is best) to tell you when the beam is at it's smallest.


Edit, careful with the spring. You don't want to scratch the lens!
 
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mfo

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Well, I just learned one thing about this laser. It uses a lot of juice. I already killed a CR2 :D
 

jayrob

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Mine draws 750mA's...

I'm sure that would be less than an hour. But an awesome hour! :cool:
 

mfo

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Here is a beam shot. I used an eight second exposure. It's a huge pic, so I posted it as a link instead.

http://chrishug.com/DSCF0314.JPG

Oh yeah Jay, how did you figure out how much current it's drawing?
 
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jayrob

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You just measure the current draw from the battery by taking the tail cap off, and measuring between the battery positive and the host.

This will work the same way in a case negative build if you want to measure battery current draw...
 
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mfo

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Hmm, mine says .51 so I guess that's 510mA? I wonder why such a difference...

Thanks for the info though! I never knew that hehe.

Edit: How many mW is yours putting out? We're talking about the same laser, right? The GLP 473?

Or is this the old model you received from Glenn a while back that made me salivate?
 
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Moptsp

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Nice beam mfo. Yeah, I think the green makes dead batts pretty fast too, well faster than a 5mw, anyway! Anyone know of some good rechargeable batteries that would work well? Currently I'm using non-rechargeable Energizer AAA which seems to work good. Though I tried some fully charged rechargeable AAA, and the laser looked to only be putting out 40mw lol. Maybe they are not giving the mA's needed?

-Moptsp
 

mfo

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Nice beam mfo. Yeah, I think the green makes dead batts pretty fast too, well faster than a 5mw, anyway! Anyone know of some good rechargeable batteries that would work well? Currently I'm using non-rechargeable Energizer AAA which seems to work good. Though I tried some fully charged rechargeable AAA, and the laser looked to only be putting out 40mw lol. Maybe they are not giving the mA's needed?

-Moptsp

I'm using the trustfire 3.0V CR2's I purchased from modwerx.com. Andrew also happen to have a charger for them too, which he sold me for an additional $5. However they're all gone now so if you want them within a reasonable time frame, get them from eBay make sure it's a US seller.
 
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Get AAA ENELOOPS from jacksonck08, in the B, S, & T section of the Forum. I'm gonna keep buying them until I have enough for all my lasers that use AAA. On my FLUKE DMM, the day AFTER I took them out of the charger, they were reading anywhere from 1.39 to 1.43 volts. I just picked up some AA ENELOOPS from KENDALL at HIGHTECHDEALZ for my Digital Camera. From what I heard, they will hold a full charge for almost TWO YEARS, & are supposed to be great in high drain devices (like lasers)
 
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mfo --- Not this weekend yet. The PO is busy as crap. It will get here and I will review it along with my super yellow laser. They will look good together.
Another thanks to Glenn.

Merry CHRISTmas.

HMike
 
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Hey guys with Phoenix77's PGL R/G and D.G.'s 100 mW blue, a little fog and a difraction grating from bryce007 I made a couple of pics:
1589-cni-bright-beams-r-g-b-010.jpg
1587-cni-bright-beams-r-g-b-008.jpg
 
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Moptsp

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Glenn is having some fun. :D He deserves it though. :p

@phoenix77 -- Thanks for the suggestion. I would rather pick some up at the store if possible, though I don't have too. I saw some energizer at 850mAh. Though I didn't buy them because I wasn't sure. Maybe I should post a thread asking what others have used? (also, so I can keep it out of this GB thread)

P.S.
What I did to fix my lens, or at least seems to be working now, is take some silicon lubricant like stuff (I believe it was originally used for sink rings) and got it into the threads. It's still adjustable as the stuff never seems to completely dry, but it's thick to keep the plate secured. It was not easy at all!! I was so scared I was going to hit the lens taking a thin wire down into it to place the silicon. :O But I think I did it with a good lens still. :)

-Moptsp
 
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