** BluRay Diode GB **

So were I to order a few... how long before you get the next batch do you think?

Well... I'm ordering a few extras for people who would like to get some more... I am not sure how long it would be before we can get enough orders to fill in the minimum again... ;D

--DDL

I'm drooling ! I already have SO many of mine earmarked for other projects ! I hope I remembered to keep one back for me ! LOL !!!

BlueFusion said:

But hey. When you say the diodes are 3 in one, does this mean the red in it is a pointer red or a burner red? and the IR? I assume they are red+ir+violet. Sorry bout the noob questions but ive never done anything with bluray's before.

Click to expand...

I wouldn't bother trying. As mentioned already, you wouldn't be able to have it collimated for both at once, you'd have to re-focus each time you switch wavelengths. ALSO, there's a heat issue if you try to run both at once.  

That is the major downfall of this stacked design. One optic is on top of the other one and so pushing the BluRay will kill it so much quicker because it has to rely on the other optics to transfer the heat out of the diode ;D

I wish they had the plain violet diode like the one I used in that pointer I sold already...

--DDL

Re: BluRay Diode Hey am I too late to order a diode? If I send $ right away, how much shipped to 91765 California) I can only hope to assemble one into a blu-ray laser after I study the process more. Please let me know ASAP Thanks! -Glenn

Which one is on the bottom of the stack?

Afaik IR and red together, and on top the violet one.


Suppose one would open the diode and flood it with some fluid (non-aggressive, non-corrosive, non-conductive) to aid with heat transfer, would the diodes survive that?

The diode may survive, but you would change the optical properties due to the change of index of refraction of the liquid vs air.

philguy said:

Afaik IR and red together, and on top the violet one.


Suppose one would open the diode and flood it with some fluid (non-aggressive, non-corrosive, non-conductive) to aid with heat transfer, would the diodes survive that?

Click to expand...

So would I still get a beam? Maybe I'm gonna try that with a DVD-ROM diode, or even a GB diode

Would pure ethanol work? deionised water (or whatever you call the ion-free nonconductive water)? Maybe get creative and try "unconventional coolings" like sulphuric acid

Ok, back to seriosity: Any chance a clear thermal compound/glue might work? Or any idea of a liquid that would effectively increase cooling (and thus maximum load )?

I should think if there was such a compound readily available, they would already be using it in diodes. So I don't think there's such a thing. yet.

It's like those cheap dome leds where they coat the whole junction with some clear plastic or sth which also acts as a lens. Might work for leds but for lasers it seems to be a different story. coating the end facet might easily destroy it unless you have some serious deposition equipment. Even then I think they already have some form of protection there. I will also change the optical properties as mentioned, especially at the end facet. Might make it more reflective or transmissive and distrupt the optical cavity they may have carefully designed.

Besides I don't think it is really about the cooling since these things run at say 5-20mW. But the difference in thermal conductivity of GaN and GaAlAs is significant so running them at the same time might damage one or both diodes. IIRC there was some guy who did rig up his ps3 diode to run both red and violet diodes at the same time. Can't remember what happened though.

Well, the ideal fluid imho would be butane well, you'd need to pressurize the module, but isn't that a challenge?

Once thought about constructing a butane cooling system for my CPU but then it was too dangerous for me, but a bit of Butane in the tip of a laser pen - why not?

Dang it, why won't these GB diodes arrive?

How bout a bit of mineral oil? I think that's non-conductive. But it seems like if anything foreign would be in there then it wouldn't lase to begin with. But maybe someone can try it out on a 2$ key chain laser. Maybe even try vegetable oil just to test the theory, I know optics would suck.

philguy said:

So would I still get a beam? Maybe I'm gonna try that with a DVD-ROM diode, or even a GB diode

Would pure ethanol work? deionised water (or whatever you call the ion-free nonconductive water)? Maybe get creative and try "unconventional coolings" like sulphuric acid

Click to expand...

You probably would get an output, but it may not be as tight a beam. I recommend against using deionized water. DI does very, very poorly when in contact with metals. If you have to use water, try distilled instead. Alcohol might not be wise. I'm not sure how much heat the laser diodes produce inside, but it would only take a slight spark to result in fire. You need a stable, transparent, low-density fluid for best results.

Well, mineral oil is aggressive, I think (though we might have some acid-free oil somewhere).

I did mean distilled water, just got the wrong word then

about alcohol: So what? If a 3$ diode starts to burn on my metal-surface desk, away from other flammable things, during a test run? But still I'm not too thrilled of the alcohol idea.


Now I do remember that some years ago I took a 2$ pointer and cooled the "diode" in liquid butane (~-20° C, or -4°F). I did still see a red glow, but don't know if it was lasing. Anyways, that was not your conventional diode, but just two metal plates stuch onto each other, no housing or anything.

Optics would be another thing, but that should be correctable.

Just wanted to make sure you got my 2nd order quite a few days back.
I wanted to get an extra one, and you can keep the extra 5$ shipping as a tip.
Thanks.