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FrozenGate by Avery

SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

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SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

Hi All,

:eg:Review on Survival Laser's New Red Laser Called the SL-R.:eg:



>>>CLICK ME TO GO TO SurvivalLaser.com<<<

SL-R Stands For "SurvivalLaser - Red" if you are wondering but iam sure you all figured that one.LOL

He has 2 options For the SL-R that you can go for:

A complete laser bundle package witch is awesome and comes with many items that you need to get started. I recommend this For anyone that is New to lasers and dont have all the proper accessories to get started. Especially Laser safety Glasses. Even if your not new to laser it still is a great buy for what you get.:)
Survival Laser R 660nm Parts Bundle w/Accessories & Rechargeable Battery

He also sells one that is Just components only. In this option You will have to put the laser together yourself. Comes with a Detailed Instruction Sheet to put the laser together. It should Not take you more then 10 minutes to do.:p There is No Soldering neither with this Options. So All you Need to put this laser together is your 2 hands.
Survival Laser R 660nm Parts Bundle - Laser Components Only


Let me start off by saying Survival Laser is an Awesome store.:) Gary the owner is Active on the forum everyday.:) So you know that you will have Great Support. He is a Guy.:beer: I have Yet to Here anything Bad about him or His company or Lasers that he sells.:wave:

OK So I received this laser about a week or so ago and have been using it ever since.:) THis is not the same laser that i did the 3 mode Red In. Its a true Survival Laser SL-R. The other one in that video was DIY but with SL custom Anodized heatsink.

The Laser came to me Super Fast and Well Packaged. When i mean Super Fast i mean Super Fast 3 Days and he lives on the totally on the other side of the country then me. So that is pretty sweet to know if i need something i can get it quick. Since he also Sells other items too like Modules, Lens and Heatsinks.:beer:

The laser it self is SOLID. Feel Great in your Hand and well balanced. Especially with the battery in. It takes a SINGLE 18650 Cell. >>>DO NOT USE 2X CELLS IN THIS LASER YOU WILL KILL IT<<< It is designed to run off a single cell only. So please note this that its not same setup as his 445nm laser that used 2x Cells. I have yet to drain the battery in the 3 days that i have been using it. I use it every night for ~ 10-15 minutes of total ON time. Witch is a Protected AW 18650 2600mah cell.:D Cant go wrong with AW. THey are some of the best cells out there.

This Will bring me to the Heatsinking. Its Epic. The Red Color heatsink Match so good with the laser body itself and the Wavelength. It is one of the coolest things ever. Iam so glad that he Expanded the colors from his Blue 445nm Heatsinks to his Red laser and His New 12x 405nm laser with a Purple heatsink. They are One of a Kind and i think that its what makes this laser unique over all other C6 style laser. So :gj: on that SL. There was No flaws what so ever on the Anodizing or the host itself. This laser Does Not get Hot but barely warm after left on for 5 minutes. However i do not recommend you do this With your laser. Please fallow a reasonable duty cycle of 2 minutes on 1 minute off. So this means the lasers heatsink is doing its Job correctly and keeping the diode cool.

The SL-R is Sold as a 300mW Laser +/-20mW. My laser Reads in a little more then 300mW. "Look at LPM video below". Witch i can say that its up to Spec. It uses an AR Coated Acrylic lens that i must say is my favorite Red lens out there other then the G1 lens witch he also has avalible for this laser with a drop down window option. Its pretty rock solid stable to. It doesn't hit the peak power then starts dropping like crazy like our 445nm diodes do. So that is Awesome. You are getting a true Power laser.:wave: With the G1 lens you will get close to 400mW out of this laser. A Big Big Difference in Power for burning.

The Diode that is Used in his SL-R is The New LPC-826 diodes witch are rated Higher power then the LPC-815 Safely. SO you are going to get a long lasting laser.:wave: Iam a fan now of the LPC-826 diodes.:)


Iam Very Happy and Impressed With This Laser & The Service Behind The Laser. A product is only good when you have support behind it.:cool: Keep that in mind.

Now For Some Pictures.:evil:





Pictures:


682_3175.jpg

The Laser itself.

682_3177.jpg

Side View.

682_3172.jpg

The Business end of the Laser.

682_3180.jpg

Back View of Clicky.

682_3185.jpg

Battery Contact Spring and tail caped Removed. Battery goes in + First. So + of the Battery goes in toward the head of the laser and - of the battery goes toward the tail cap, spring and click. "Note This"

682_3190.jpg

Closer Look at the Beautiful Red Heatsink and the AR Coated Lens that also came out nice looking in this Picture.

682_3192.jpg

Its a Perfect Size Laser. Fits in your Hand Nicely.

682_3196.jpg

Another angle of how it fits in your Hand.

682_3202.jpg

Laser On.

Beam Shots:
With Fog:


Lights On....
682_3239.jpg


682_3222.jpg


682_3225.jpg


682_3224.jpg


682_3208.jpg


682_3211.jpg


682_3218.jpg


Lights Off....
682_3228.jpg


682_3236.jpg


682_3235.jpg


682_3227.jpg


682_3213.jpg


Beam Shot Video:


Laser Power Meter Test Video:



Final Thoughts:

That laser itself is Awesome. I love it. THe Host is Solid and feels Like it will last a long time. Espacial the Anodization on the host. As well as his Beutiful Custom Red Anodized heatsink. Its Perfect and one of my favorite parts of this laser and why i bought it. The Threads are very smooth and i dont think there is any chance of cross threading them.


THe Laser is Up to Spec and some.:wave: The Laser Barely gets Warm when on for a medium to long period of time of 5 minutes. If you fallow a duty cycle of less then that you will feel NO HEAT.:)

Gary the Owner of SurvivalLaser laser is a Great guy. The Support is good and answer Pms Fast. For anyone that does not know His Forum Name is:

Garoq
&
You can Reach Him Here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/members/garoq/



So Overall I give this laser 2 thumbs UP.





:thanks:For Looking.!!!



Keep On Lazing.....
 
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Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

Thanks.:)

I Have His whole Line.;)
 
Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

Excellent review - much better than my attempt at one a couple of days ago. That was my first attempt at a review, anyway.

AND ditto on the laser. I got mine last friday. I can HONESTLY say that I think I like this one better then my 200mw Gatlin green, for some reason. I'm certainly "playing" with it more.

Agree on ALL points in this review.

When focused at infinity, the SL-R could still punch a hole in a brown/black plastic trash bag from across the room, and make some black-synth nylon material smoke.

I put a piece of black electrical tape... kind of "loop shaped"... on the inside of my front door. When focused at infinity, the laser can still punch holes in it from across the room.

After leaving it on for "minutes", the forward section of the host AND the heat sink just gets "a little warm".

Outside at night I used a building that is 250 meters away, to find the infinity focus point. From 250 meters away, it makes a beautiful red dot after focusing.

Questions & Points:
It uses an AR Coated Acrylic lens that i must say is my favorite Red lens out there other then the G1 lens witch he also has avalible for this laser with a drop down window option. Its pretty rock solid stable to. It doesn't hit the peak power then starts dropping like crazy like our 445nm diodes do. So that is Awesome. You are getting a true Power laser.:wave: With the G1 lens you will get close to 400mW out of this laser. A Big Big Difference in Power for burning.
Did you yourself get the G1 lens from Survival Laser, and meter it? Is it the G1 as purchased separately from his laser parts (call it "aftermarket"), or the G1 that is included as an option in the drop down box for the SL-R? (the reason that I ask is that maybe the G1 included as an option might be a "red" G1?, versus one that is designed for 405nm?)

=====

Note that with the SL-R and its default acrylic lens, or with ANY Survival Laser and the G1 lens, there will NOT be enough room for a lens spring. The room between the lens focus ring and the heat sink is too narrow for a lens spring when focused at infinity. The focus is very loose and it will wobble and bump easily.

On my SL-R, when focused to infinity, there is only about 2mm clearance. I used a 12mm x 3mm o-ring between the lens focus ring and the heat sink. I don't think this laser will ever heat up enough to damage the o-ring. This o-ring holds a NICE tight focus at infinity, and it STILL holds well enough through a good range of burning distances (at least with the default acrylic lens). When I defocus enough for a "soft spot" to safely spin a radiometer, then I have to disengage the lens ring from the o-ring a little.

THIS way, you don't have to fool around with teflon tape.
 
Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

Excellent review - much better than my attempt at one a couple of days ago. That was my first attempt at a review, anyway.

AND ditto on the laser. I got mine last friday. I can HONESTLY say that I think I like this one better then my 200mw Gatlin green, for some reason. I'm certainly "playing" with it more.

Agree on ALL points in this review.

When focused at infinity, the SL-R could still punch a hole in a brown/black plastic trash bag from across the room, and make some black-synth nylon material smoke.

I put a piece of black electrical tape... kind of "loop shaped"... on the inside of my front door. When focused at infinity, the laser can still punch holes in it from across the room.

After leaving it on for "minutes", the forward section of the host AND the heat sink just gets "a little warm".

Outside at night I used a building that is 250 meters away, to find the infinity focus point. From 250 meters away, it makes a beautiful red dot after focusing.

Questions & Points:

Did you yourself get the G1 lens from Survival Laser, and meter it? Is it the G1 as purchased separately from his laser parts (call it "aftermarket"), or the G1 that is included as an option in the drop down box for the SL-R? (the reason that I ask is that maybe the G1 included as an option might be a "red" G1?, versus one that is designed for 405nm?)=====

Note that with the SL-R and its default acrylic lens, or with ANY Survival Laser and the G1 lens, there will NOT be enough room for a lens spring. The room between the lens focus ring and the heat sink is too narrow for a lens spring when focused at infinity. The focus is very loose and it will wobble and bump easily.

On my SL-R, when focused to infinity, there is only about 2mm clearance. I used a 12mm x 3mm o-ring between the lens focus ring and the heat sink. I don't think this laser will ever heat up enough to damage the o-ring. This o-ring holds a NICE tight focus at infinity, and it STILL holds well enough through a good range of burning distances (at least with the default acrylic lens). When I defocus enough for a "soft spot" to safely spin a radiometer, then I have to disengage the lens ring from the o-ring a little.

THIS way, you don't have to fool around with teflon tape.

THank You for the Kind Words and wirte up>:)

To Answer your question on the G1. No I dint get it from SL. I had a G1 for a long time. Its a 405-G-1 lens. it will still also work with Red lasers Just fine.:)

Iam Pretty sure but Not 100% that both the one in the drop down wind and the one in the Accessory/Parts is the same lens. The 405-G-1 Lens. I WILL CONTACT HIM FOR YOU AND FIND OUT FOR YOU. OK.?

Both the 405-G-1 lens & the 650-G-1 lens both work Great for Red diodes. However you will get slightly more power with the 650-G-1 lens then the 405-G-1 lens.

I am unsure to this day as to how much of a difference as i have never purchased a 650-G-1 lens.

So ill let you know what he says.:)
 
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Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

Lazeerer; Thats ok, I have a PM into gary on the subject...

I hope he doesn't get "miffed"; I had 3x PMs loaded with questions, LOTTA words, but I AM a n00b, and good n00bs ask questions so that they aren't n00bs anymore.

... so with your "405" G1 you got close to 400mw... interesting... and I've been advised in another thread that I would get a "thinner, better, more attractive beam" with a G1.

I am awaiting word from Gary as to whether he carrys "red" G1s. He is out of town right now and he will answer my (too wordy) questions when he gets back.

Again, thanks.
 
Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

OK Got it. He Might be away for the Weekend since its 4th of July weekend.

Yes the G1 will give you a thinner beam but i find it starts to diverge more After 50 or so feet.

Yes close to 400mW. ~380mW.
 
Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

Another excellent kit laser from Survival Lasers. It looks like the LPC-826 diodes are turning out to be excellent performers. :gj:
 
Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

I got two packages in the mail today, to use with my Survival Laser SL-R 660nm: (1) The jayrob 650-G-1 Lens, from Jayrob (2) A tube of Ceramique 2 thermal compound and a lens spring, from Survival Laser.

* First; I "retrofitted" my SL-R with Ceramique 2 between the red LD and the heatsink, and between the heatsink and the host. YES, I know that disassembling a Survival Laser after it has already been assembled violates the warranty, but I did this carefully and without incident. The wires were not broken, there was no damage. I know that this laser probably doesn't "need" thermal compund, but I figured that it couldn't hurt; and this ALSO provided "practice" for when I get a Survival Laser 405 and a SL 445. I've never had reason to use thermal compound before; I read many tutorials on the web (with pictures) about thermal compound -> CPUs. I apparantly used JUST the right amount (very THIN layer), and it went well.

I was very pleased to see that a lens spring will fit under the lens focusing ring / 650-G-1 when the laser is focused to infinity, and also thru a wide focusing range, including burning ranges. This is due to the "recessed design" of the 650-G-1, which places the lens closer to the diode and leaving more thread-space to work with for focusing. With the default SL-R acrylic lens, there isn't enough room for a lens spring when focused to infinity. The lens spring with the 650-G-1 holds just the right amount of tension (in my opinion); WITHOUT using teflon tape.

The beam looks MUCH improved over the SL-R default acrylic; a PERFECTLY clean beam.

Outside in pre-twilight, I focused the laser to ~ infinity using a target that is ~ 60 meters away, and again with a target that is ~ 260 meters away. I got a beautiful, small red dot/spot. The G-1 lenses are supposed to impose more divergance over default lenses, but I didn't notice this. Even at ~ 260 meters, the red spot somehow looks "better" than with a default lens.

Indoors the beam is simply beautiful. No splash or artifacts; JUST the bright red dot, and the red line. When viewing the dot through safety glasses, it is a perfect little dot.

My one MINOR disappointment; When I ordered my SL-R, I also ordered the "Blue Anodized Extended Focus Ring"; basically more of a short metal cylinder than a ring. It makes focusing a lot easier. But, the lens focus ring on the 650-G-1 was installed MUCH more than "finger-tight"... it is VERY tight. Looking at illustrations, pictures, the information sheet that came with the 650-G-1 reveals why... the custom inner sleeve and other inner components. It looks like MAYBE I could, say, use a pair of pliers flat down on a kitchen countertop (probably on top of a clean sheet of typing paper), using the pliers as a vise, and then with a screwdriver MAYBE loosening the 650-G-1 focus ring enough to install the Survival Laser Extended Focus Ring. BUT the 650-G-1 lens is recessed pretty far back... a screwdriver MIGHT damage the lens (I didn't look with a magnifying glass - there MIGHT be enough room to use a screwdriver without scraping the lens). Also, if I loosened the assembly, thus loosening the inner components, I MIGHT get the lens wedged in wrong (due to my inexperience); the optic might get "out of wack".

So, I will leave this 650-G-1 with it's default lens ring.

I intend to order a jayrob 405-G-1 whenever I get around to ordering a Survival Laser 405 and a SL 445. I will probably contact jayrob... if I send him Extended Focus Rings in the mail, he can probably install these on his 405-G-1. I don't think it will be necessary to ask for this with my SL-R, it isn't that critical.
 
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Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

If you are Looking for A clean Dot area Stick with the Aixiz Red Lens or the AR Coated Acrylic.

If you are looking for more Power Stronger Sold beam Go with the G1.

The Wings next to the dot Kill it for me with the G1. But i do Not Mind it to much as iam always looking at the beam. not the dot.

This only applies with Red 650nm/660nm Lasers as they are the only diodes i have seen that Create Wings like that with a "405-G-1 lens".

I have yet to own a 650-G1 lens. So results might be diffrent with a 650-G1 lens.

But i will alway choose if i had an Option and the funds to use a G1 lens over any other lens because iam a beam Guy.:D

You Say ~260 meters and its a "small red dot/spot". I find that Extremely Hard to believe. Even a Beam Expender Will have trouble to do that.

Can you Explain More.?
 
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Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

I got two packages in the mail today, to use with my Survival Laser SL-R 660nm: (1) The jayrob 650-G-1 Lens, from Jayrob (2) A tube of Ceramique 2 thermal compound and a lens spring, from Survival Laser.

* First; I "retrofitted" my SL-R with Ceramique 2 between the red LD and the heatsink, and between the heatsink and the host. YES, I know that disassembling a Survival Laser after it has already been assembled violates the warranty, but I did this carefully and without incident. The wires were not broken, there was no damage. I know that this laser probably doesn't "need" thermal compund, but I figured that it couldn't hurt; and this ALSO provided "practice" for when I get a Survival Laser 405 and a SL 445. I've never had reason to use thermal compound before; I read many tutorials on the web (with pictures) about thermal compound -> CPUs. I apparantly used JUST the right amount (very THIN layer), and it went well.

I was very pleased to see that a lens spring will fit under the lens focusing ring / 650-G-1 when the laser is focused to infinity, and also thru a wide focusing range, including burning ranges. This is due to the "recessed design" of the 650-G-1, which places the lens closer to the diode and leaving more thread-space to work with for focusing. With the default SL-R acrylic lens, there isn't enough room for a lens spring when focused to infinity. The lens spring with the 650-G-1 holds just the right amount of tension (in my opinion); WITHOUT using teflon tape.

The beam looks MUCH improved over the SL-R default acrylic; a PERFECTLY clean beam.

Outside in pre-twilight, I focused the laser to ~ infinity using a target that is ~ 60 meters away, and again with a target that is ~ 260 meters away. I got a beautiful, small red dot/spot. The G-1 lenses are supposed to impose more divergance over default lenses, but I didn't notice this. Even at ~ 260 meters, the red spot somehow looks "better" than with a default lens.

Indoors the beam is simply beautiful. No splash or artifacts; JUST the bright red dot, and the red line. When viewing the dot through safety glasses, it is a perfect little dot.

My one MINOR disappointment; When I ordered my SL-R, I also ordered the "Blue Anodized Extended Focus Ring"; basically more of a short metal cylinder than a ring. It makes focusing a lot easier. But, the lens focus ring on the 650-G-1 was installed MUCH more than "finger-tight"... it is VERY tight. Looking at illustrations, pictures, the information sheet that came with the 650-G-1 reveals why... the custom inner sleeve and other inner components. It looks like MAYBE I could, say, use a pair of pliers flat down on a kitchen countertop (probably on top of a clean sheet of typing paper), using the pliers as a vise, and then with a screwdriver MAYBE loosening the 650-G-1 focus ring enough to install the Survival Laser Extended Focus Ring. BUT the 650-G-1 lens is recessed pretty far back... a screwdriver MIGHT damage the lens (I didn't look with a magnifying glass - there MIGHT be enough room to use a screwdriver without scraping the lens). Also, if I loosened the assembly, thus loosening the inner components, I MIGHT get the lens wedged in wrong (due to my inexperience); the optic might get "out of wack".

So, I will leave this 650-G-1 with it's default lens ring.

I intend to order a jayrob 405-G-1 whenever I get around to ordering a Survival Laser 405 and a SL 445. I will probably contact jayrob... if I send him Extended Focus Rings in the mail, he can probably install these on his 405-G-1. I don't think it will be necessary to ask for this with my SL-R, it isn't that critical.

Glad you like it! :)

About the focus ring, it is hand tight. But I have kind of strong hands, and I crank it on very tight. So that the focus ring will not get loose when trying to focus...

You can take off the focus ring without affecting the lens mount. It is held in with a separate little threaded ring:

650%203.jpg
 
Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

If you are Looking for A clean Dot area Stick with the Aixiz Red Lens or the AR Coated Acrylic.

If you are looking for more Power Stronger Sold beam Go with the G1.

The Wings next to the dot Kill it for me with the G1. But i do Not Mind it to much as iam always looking at the beam. not the dot.

This only applies with Red 650nm/660nm Lasers as they are the only diodes i have seen that Create Wings like that with a "405-G-1 lens".

I have yet to own a 650-G1 lens. So results might be diffrent with a 650-G1 lens.

But i will alway choose if i had an Option and the funds to use a G1 lens over any other lens because iam a beam Guy.:D

You Say ~260 meters and its a "small red dot/spot". I find that Extremely Hard to believe. Even a Beam Expender Will have trouble to do that.

Can you Explain More.?

Okay... sorry for my syntax... I don't mean a "tiny red dot". I mean a small, compact, clean, bright red spot *as seen from ~ 260 meters away*. I can't explain why, exactly, but it SEEMS brighter and more "pure", more focused, more "TEM00", then using the default acrylic.

My default AR coated acrylic had a weird artifact. "Dim halo around the bright dot, halo looked like it was full of bubbles, streaks, spots... think 'red alligator skin'".

I am "sold" on this lens - I love it. The beam is thin, pure... I DON'T mind the "wings", because the OTHER artifacts that were there with the acrylic are gone.

Glad you like it! :)

About the focus ring, it is hand tight. But I have kind of strong hands, and I crank it on very tight. So that the focus ring will not get loose when trying to focus...

You can take off the focus ring without affecting the lens mount. It is held in with a separate little threaded ring:

Okay; I will (carefully!) try later to swap lens rings. - Thanks

((the air conditioning went out in my apartment this afternoon, inside temp is approaching 80 degrees... have to log off soon and STAY off until I can cool my apartment again... might not be able to respond till ~ monday or so)
 
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Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

Okay... sorry for my syntax... I don't mean a "tiny red dot". I mean a small, compact, clean, bright red spot *as seen from ~ 260 meters away*. I can't explain why, exactly, but it SEEMS brighter and more "pure", more focused, more "TEM00", then using the default acrylic.

I am "sold" on this lens - I love it. The beam is thin, pure... I DON'T mind the "wings", because the OTHER artifacts that were there with the acrylic are gone.

You must have some Great Eye site. At that distance i can not tell the difference between 3 feet and 10 feet witch is more like the size of the Spot.

It is indeed a Superior lens. The G1 Is a Favorite of All of Us. However the price for the Ar acrylic Lens and for where it stands they are second Best to the G1.

They are both Good Lens.

I have Many G1 lenses.;)


What artifact did the Acrylic lens have. ? I have used these AR coated acrylic lens for some time now and have not seen any artifacts around the Dot other then the Little Line that comes off the Dot and the Wings.:thinking:

Maybe you gota bad lens.?
 
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Re: SurvivalLaser.com Red Laser "The SL-R" Review "Pictures & Video"

They replaced a large capacitor on the air conditioning motor. Fortunately it was just the capacitor; if the air conditioning motor had burned out, I would have had to wait until monday for repairs.

=====

lazeerer; Maybe I did get a bad lens (?) (default AR acrylic), I don't know. Indoors with the acrylic, I would get a bright red dot, surrounded by a dim red halo; the dim halo is full of dim irregularities. The appearance is like reptile-skin. The 650-G-1 just gives the the red dot and the "wings". The overall appearance is very clean.

=====

At ~260 meters, the red spot is considerably LESS then 3 to 10 feet. I realize that the divergence will be different than with my 200mw Gatlin, BUT; with my 200mw Gatlin @ ~ 260 meters, and examining the green spot through binoculars, the green spot was slightly wider than an automobile license plate, when focused down as small as possible. That is *about* ~ 30 centimeters. Using these divergence calculators:
pseudonomen137's JScript mRad Calculator
pseudonomen137's JScript Diameter Calculator
... and using generic values for 532nm lasers, I got a calculation of 38.x centimeters @ 250 meters. I didn't examine the RED spot through binoculars, but I can tell that it is very dense, bright and compact @ ~ 260 meters; comparable to the GREEN spot in size, visually.

=====

I DID manage to swap the lens ring for the extended lens ring. It took > finger pressure. I carefully used a "thin" pair of pliers and a wide-bladed thin-bladed screwdriver to loosen the default lens ring. Swapped out just fine.
 
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