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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Rick Trent Knife-edge Kit

Joined
Oct 26, 2007
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I recently purchased a knife-edge plate kit with copper modules from Rick Trent's eBay store.

The kit comes with 1x base-plate, 3x aluminum blocks, 3x copper modules, screws and springs for mounting, and also some articulate metal arms (more on this later). Though the eBay ad specifies that no mirrors would be part of the kit, I was pleasantly surprised to find 3x high quality dielectric mirrors thrown in as well, in addition a spare mounting screw and spring. Here's a picture of most of the parts in the kit:

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The aluminum blocks mount to the plate via long screws that have high-tension screws below to provide pressure. Here's a video of it in action from the eBay ad:


In order to prevent much wobbling, the springs need to be quite compressed:

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Unfortunately, this still does not prevent the blocks from shifting and twisting. The twisting is especially annoying, and no amount of tightening really fixes it. You can see here that the blocks are angled differently:

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The kit also comes with 3x copper modules. What makes these copper modules special is that they come with copper backs in addition to the lens-holder. This provides a large amount copper material to conduct heat away to the blocks. The copper backs are much better than the brass backs because they're not so hollow as well as can be seen in this picture:

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The amount of copper in these modules is pretty substantial for their size, and they have a nice weight to them. Very good value I'd say.

The copper modules fit into the aluminum blocks cleanly and are held in place with a set-screw. Unfortunately, despite the extras in the package, I could not find any set screws in the box. I'll have to see what I can scrounge up around here.

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Finally, the kit comes with a heap of little aluminum arms along with some screws to connect them together. The idea is that you can put a mirror or something else on the end of a chain of these articulate metal arms and position them in front of the beam for knife edging.

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In practice, the articulate arms don't work very well. They're not very solid, and very prone to vibrations and coming loose.

Analysis:

The kit has some good points and bad points. I like the fact that it comes with some nice copper modules and some decent-sized metal blocks. I also received some nice mirrors that I appreciate.

For a precision knife-edge setup, the kit isn't that useful. The real problem is that a knife-edge setup really requires a very solid, precise mount and positioning setup. While there are screws to give the blocks tension, the screws are too thin for the holes. This allows the blocks to twist and shift on their mounts.

The articulate arms, while an interesting idea, just don't do the job either. Knife-edging or beam combining really needs a hard-fixed mount, not a long and bending arm that is prone to being bumped. Just the fact that it would be very hard to even position the arms while tightening them down would make it really difficult to really use these even in an experimental fashion.

Potential Improvements:

Rather than some articulate arms, other metal parts would be useful. Notably, a bunch of washers would have been nice to prevent the screw from grinding on the top of the aluminum modules. I would also like to see some nuts provided in order to allow the user to tighten the springs down or fix the blocks.

Washers + nuts could go a long way towards making this apparatus more solid, but really the whole mounting strategy needs to be revamped. Having four different screws to adjust the blocks just doesn't work. A better setup would be to emulate those adjustable mirror mounts. The blocks could employ a ball-bearing at the location of one of the screw holes as a pivot, some springs to provide tension, and screws to do the fine adjusting. You'd lose some of the up/down motion, but the whole system would work a lot better for actual knife-edging. I've actually attempted this with some ball bearings I have, but unfortunately the springs take up too much room for the ball bearing to act as a good pivot. I also tried using some PCB board stand-offs but they didn't have compatible threading (maybe motherboard stand-offs would work?)

For actual knife edging, perhaps the center module could be replaced with a mirror mount, and the side-blocks could fire towards the middle. Then multiple plates/blocks could be stacked up and combined. Really crappy mock-up:

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I'd also like to see ways to mount heatsinks. The blocks of aluminum are nice and big, but there isn't a lot of surface area on them. For low-power reds this might be okay, but for higher powered lasers this may limit the overall power you can push through these. The screws on top also interfere with putting a big plate unless I want to mount the blocks directly to the heatsink.

As I can't really use the spring system without additional mods. I'll probably end up using these blocks without the springs and connect the base plate to a larger heatsink to help reduce the heating. For that it should be okay. This kit shows promise, but needs some extra work in order to be really useful.
 

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Joined
May 31, 2009
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Thanks for the great review...

I had hesitations towards this product for the exact reasons you mentioned above.... When talking about precision optics you really can't have them sitting out in space on an adjustable arm. Just doesn't look like it'll last very long.

It definitely has promise, hope he can work out all the kinks... I'll be in for one if he does.

-Adrian
 
Joined
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Oh another thing that would be nice on these blocks: the holes should be placed on 1"x1" or 25mm x 25mm grids (or some multiple) so that they're at least somewhat compatible with optical breadboards. Right now they're on about 7/8" x 7/8" inch grids (~22mm x 22mm), which is pretty odd.

Compatibility with "standard" screws would be good too (1/4"-20 or M6-1.0), though more for the plate itself than the precision mounted components.
 
Joined
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If the blocks were made out of copper and had tall copper fins would that help? Another item that might help with stability is to use viton o-rings instead of springs to give even support for all directions?

Copper is a bit pricey though.
 
Joined
Nov 28, 2010
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Some good new the cubs are 32mm by 32xmm the mass of them will let you run for 60 sec. on the 3w diode set at 2.4A with no need for fan if you run longer you would need to add cooler or fans .

On the holes they were set that way to keep away from module I needed as much mass around the copper module I could get.

The spring do not work good. I was looking in to o'rings or gaskets but on the 15w kit I made I did not use any thing. I am going to have some new arms mad that will work better like I used in the 15w kit they locked down good .
in the video. I was able to get 6 cubs on one base plat made 15w =2.5w per diode. With the new diodes I could see 5w each =30w easily and the way the base plates can be add to the next base plate you could get 60w easily and more look at all the video I have on youtube to get a better look and you can see the new arms I hope to have them for sale in the new kit I am working on. see video of what the new arms will look like . Ar15- 15w 445nm laser starting fire instantly - YouTube

video of 15w burning spring AR15 -15w 445nm module burning steel spring - YouTube

up close look at arms AR15 15w 445nm laser gun world record for handheld laser rifle - YouTube

Do not use in handheld to much power just for projectors



This is the cubes and base plates that I am putting on sale and you can add new arms as soon as they come in.
eBay item number: 321361398335 $89

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http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/w677/ricktrent4/DSC_0042_zps47614838.jpg






Oh another thing that would be nice on these blocks: the holes should be placed on 1"x1" or 25mm x 25mm grids (or some multiple) so that they're at least somewhat compatible with optical breadboards. Right now they're on about 7/8" x 7/8" inch grids (~22mm x 22mm), which is pretty odd.

Compatibility with "standard" screws would be good too (1/4"-20 or M6-1.0), though more for the plate itself than the precision mounted components.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 26, 2007
Messages
5,438
Points
83
That's some ridiculous power! I'd be afraid of wrecking the meter heat itself!

Copper's a nice material, but it's expensive, heavy, and ultimately you want to move that heat into the air so the fins end up being more important than the initial mass. Having those copper modules is nice to move the heat to other parts of the heatsink though, after which the surface area can take over.
 





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