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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Review: Viasho 500mW 532nm VBP portable

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Dec 14, 2010
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Well, here it is.

I had suggested a price range, a few basics for what I was wanting to buy and actually left the decision up to the forum. After a little discussion and clarification of my needs, the forum suggested getting a Viasho laser. I connected with Frank via email, and here is the review of the laser itself.

Firstly, I have to give a HUGE thanks to Frank - he was the whole reason I'm super happy about getting this laser. His communication was superb, responses very fast, and wow - the shipping? It took 3 days from China and actually arrived here a day sooner than we both thought it would.

Incredible.

So anyway - I'll put a review for the company in the appropriate section shortly. In the meantime, LASER TIME!!!

Shipping : amazing. I had to pay $8.05 when it got here for processing/handling fees, not a big deal really. For getting it in 3 days from China when I'm used to waiting like 3 weeks... It's a joke really. I honestly couldn't be more pleased with how fast the shipping was. Kudos to DHL, and to Frank for using them.

Packaging: it was quite well packaged with bubble wrap, air "pillows" and it was in a decent box that made it here just fine.


The laser itself:
The overall build quality is fantastic. There are some very very minor wear marks along the edges but it looks like it would have been a case where the host was kept in a box with a bunch of other hosts. Not a big deal to me - I'm not picky; I'm a utilitarian in that the looks don't matter to me as much as how it works. If it works well, then I'm pleased.

The only complaint I have right now is the divergence. This laser I will actually take the time out to figure out what the divergence is because I fear it's abnormally high compared to my Sky-Lasers laser. (Which in retrospect, could be abnormally low lol)

As per normal for my reviews, it's picture time :)


sam0133.jpg


Here's the packaging - the box looks a little beat up, but I don't mind as long as the laser is protected. Yes, I removed all the personal information - now it looks like a package from the CIA! lol

sam0134r.jpg


Shot from the bottom.

sam0135t.jpg


Some pillowy action.

sam0136h.jpg


Ooohhhh! TOYS!

So I didn't realize that anything more than just the laser was coming, so I was a little surprised to say the least.

What is all this stuff?

sam0137z.jpg


Awesome - another charger. Now, mind you I have like... 7 chargers for the 18650's, but I actually DIDN'T have any chargers for the little rechargeable CR123A's which... I had been shopping for so this comes at a PERFECT time. (Before I spend money on yet another charger)

sam0138r.jpg

sam0139q.jpg

I had to make sure that the charger actually was compatible, but it shows on the back which batteries work with this charger. It actually... doesn't look too cheap either! It's not a high-quality brand name, but it works, and doesn't seem flimsy/junk worthy.

sam0141.jpg


Here's the cable, seems Okay. Actually wait... what's this?

sam0142t.jpg


The base is pulling away from the adapter itself. Doesn't look too bad though. I did manage to charge my CR123A with it though, and it charged just fine.

sam0143m.jpg


Just another shot of where the adapter plugs in.

sam0144p.jpg


Ohhh - helps if I can unlock it to turn it on right? The keys are generic keys, and are not actual keys - any of these style "hole" keys will work.

sam0145c.jpg

sam0146b.jpg


Yes - instructions. The English isn't perfect, but definitely much better than I HAVE seen in the past. These directions are actually readable and I don't have to re-read to understand what they were trying to say.

sam0148.jpg


Bubble-wrap is fun... green lasers are even more fun! Time to crack this open a little bit here...

sam0149i.jpg


ASD Bag - nice. I needed one of these...

sam0150e.jpg


There we go - first experience. It looks nice - quite solid and pretty heavy too. Looks well put together, and overall just feels like a solid piece of equipment.

sam0151q.jpg


Here's a direct size comparison to the Sky-lasers I own. The actual dimensions are:

8.5" wide by 1.5" high by 1.5" long.

sam0152u.jpg


This was just the inside of the laser. I wanted to see how they implemented the spring, because I've heard of some people that had issues with the spring falling off.

The only part that actually *IS* a problem is the fact that the battery tube is offset. I'll explain in a bit, but basically when you look at the head of the back part, it's centered to touch the actual center of the battery... if the battery were mounted in the very middle but it isn't.

sam0153m.jpg


See how the endcap contact terminal is centered? The battery itself isn't when in the laser, which causes an issue for certain cells, particularly the AW18650's, because they have a lip that is flush with the positive terminal.

Anyway, different cells seem to work just fine, it just takes some fiddling to make it work, that's all.

sam0154o.jpg


This is the endcap with my sexy leg. Oohhhh sexy jean leg!

sam0155o.jpg


Whoever put this label on was clearly only using their remaining good eye. It's a touch crooked but I don't mind. I know it's dangerous lol

sam0156ww.jpg


Business end - Shutter closed.

sam0157s.jpg


Business end - Shutter opened.

sam0158jr.jpg


So the shutter assembly does come off, to allow you to see the focusing lens. You can see that it's pretty glued up, in that it looks like the aluminum brace is threaded so you can adjust the focus... but then it's epoxied in place so you can't. I really wanted to adjust this, however 2 things:
1 - I don't have epoxy to lock it back in place/I don't want to mess it up somehow.
2 - I don't want to mess with the warranty at all. I have 3 months if something goes wrong and while I don't think anything will... At the end of the 3 months if the divergence still bothers me, I might take the epoxy off and try and focus it a little better manually. Until then, I can deal with it.

I did email Frank and asked about the divergence - I'm really curious to know if the poor divergence is a function of the diode used, the crystals, or simply the focusing point. I have some lasers that stay little forever (My IQS lasers have the best divergence I've seen with the exception of my Sky-lasers laser), where others (My boblasers's laser divergence sucks. Not bad, but not great)

I also asked about an IR filter. I didn't see anything when I was looking around the laser, and didn't remember seeing any in the documentation itself but I can only assume that with this level of quality, it should have an IR filter.

sam0159x.jpg


This is just showing that when you have a battery in, the light shows up green, but it's a different green than the laser color itself and is still very visible through my safety glasses (which is good). The LED then changes to red when the laser is active, to let you know that it's active.

The physical button is large, and there is a solid CLICK when you push it in. It's really nice because the other lasers I've owned have itty bitty buttons and you can turn them on accidentally pretty easily.

This one, you can't unless you depress the button quite a bit, but it's a rock-solid click and there's no driver board/movement whatsoever.

sam0160d.jpg


Bam! Laser! The first thing I did was LPM it - the next few pics are in succession of when I did my first LPM readings.

sam0161w.jpg

sam0162x.jpg

sam0163kn.jpg

sam0164n.jpg

sam0165s.jpg


I don't have beamshots yet - it came in the daytime, and while you *CAN* see the beam in direct sunlight (Crazy, I know) I'm going to wait until it's dark to take some pics. My brother is coming over and we'll work together to get some nice shots :)

In the meantime I do have a couple of videos too.


Lighting a match after doing a laser reading

WARNING!!!!!!
At 2:45, I blow out the match but didn't realize that the mic was on the BACK of the camera instead of the front, which means it's loud because I talk quietly through the video.

Please be aware you should turn down the volume if you don't want to be startled or blow your speakers. Or ears. Or worse.



Melting a hole in my CD spindle


Doing another LPM reading over the period of about 2 minutes I think.



About the divergence.

I'm going to come back and edit this post once I calculate the divergence because I don't have the algorithm right with me, but the measurements seem pretty easy.

sam0170j.jpg


This isn't going to work with a camera but with the laser glasses it's easy to see the exact dot.

I traced it here:

sam0171f.jpg


The dot fits completely on the inside of that circle, and the actual diameter of the visible beam is <1.5mm, though the dot itself on the page is showing 5mm.

sam0172g.jpg


This is the same laser, at 915cm. Why 915? Well, I have a measuring stick that is 61cm. I thought it was 60, and hit 15 lengths, so thought it was 900cm or 9meters. Well, turns out it was 61cm long, making it 915cm away.

I know. I'm a genius. lol

Anyway, so here's what I put into the calculator:

At .1 meters, the beam's diameter is 5 millimeters.
At 9.15 meters, the beam's diameter is 20 millimeters.

When calculated, the divergence comes out to be: 1.65745 mRad

It's quite above the Beam Divergence (full angle, mRad) 1.2±0.2 listed online.

Hrmm... I don't know how to address this but it's good to know. I figure the lens is actually just not focused properly but I either A: won't find out for 3 months or B: will see what Frank says and possibly get another laser with better divergence.


Does this laser warm up?

Warm up: YES. After about 2 minutes it gets warm to the touch just below the heat sync, near the switch and LED. Not hot enough that I can't keep holding it, but more like... Imagine you were holding the case without it on for a few minutes - the warmth of your hand would warm it up that much.


What is the current draw from the laser?

I don't know - I've heard other models very similar to this one use 1.85A but I don't want to put in a multi-meter in fear of voiding the warranty.

How long does it take to get upto the 450-500mW range?

The 450-500mW range is within 30 seconds (depending on if the laser is cold or not). It's FAST getting upto measure, and stays there. It floats around and won't "flatline" until about the first 45 seconds, but once it warms up a little bit, it's as solid as a rock and doesn't have much movement after that.

How much did I pay?

550$ USD INCLUDING shipping to Canada. **WELL** Worth the money. (Despite the slightly higher divergence)


Please let me know what questions you all have about the review :)
 
Last edited:





anselm

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Very nice, but.....
Can it pop a balloon?:D:D

Seriously though, what a great laser!
I like this style very much, IMHO it's the most "professional" kind of style for a laser pointer.:drool:
Does it warm up much after prolonged use?
Could you please measure current draw at the battery, temporarily replacing the
tailcap with your DMM set to the 10A range?
How long is the warm up period until it hits the 450~500mW?
 
Joined
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Now thats a beast. You have a Great laser. Wished i could drop the money on something like that right now.:)

Great Review. + :beer:
 
Joined
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Very nice, but.....
Can it pop a balloon?:D:D

Seriously though, what a great laser!
I like this style very much, IMHO it's the most "professional" kind of style for a laser pointer.:drool:
Does it warm up much after prolonged use?
Could you please measure current draw at the battery, temporarily replacing the
tailcap with your DMM set to the 10A range?
How long is the warm up period until it hits the 450~500mW?

Hey!

I love this style too - if ALL of my lasers were like this, I would be totally okay with that.

I haven't tried popping a balloon. I don't think it'll pop them though. ;-)

Warm up: YES. After about 2 minutes it gets warm to the touch just below the heat sync, near the switch and LED. Not hot enough that I can't keep holding it, but more like... Imagine you were holding the case without it on for a few minutes - the warmth of your hand would warm it up that much.

I don't know about the current draw of the laser - I've heard similar models are around 1.85A - I don't want to void the warranty though.

The 450-500mW range is within 30 seconds without question. It's FAST getting upto measure, and stays there. It floats around and won't "flatline" until about the first 45 seconds, but once it warms up a little bit, it's as solid as a rock and doesn't have much movement after that.

How much did I pay?

Wait for it...

550$ USD INCLUDING shipping. **WELL** Worth the money. (Despite the slightly higher divergence)

leodahsan: It's likely that your ISP doesn't have the correct DNS entries for displaying the pictures... They're all the exact same host, so it's possible that it just hasn't updated your ISP yet, but who knows. (Just guessing at random but I'm sure it's something stupid like that.)

I'll include this info all in the original post as well for the review. Good questions :)
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Hmm other thread pics show up, and don't show up. It is changing everyday.
The videos load tho, very cool laser ;)
 
Joined
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Very nice, but.....
Can it pop a balloon?:D:D

Seriously though, what a great laser!
I like this style very much, IMHO it's the most "professional" kind of style for a laser pointer.:drool:
Does it warm up much after prolonged use?
Could you please measure current draw at the battery, temporarily replacing the
tailcap with your DMM set to the 10A range?
How long is the warm up period until it hits the 450~500mW?
No, PLEASE DON"T try measuring current without the tailcap, the tailcap has an impedance load and bypassing this current limiting load can fry the diode.
I've had 2 RPL customers who ruined their diode by doing this. If it doesn't out right fry it, it will cause damage that will reduce it's life time.

Jack
 
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oh well here he goes again... something that wikipedia didn't teaches is how to properly measure a RPL style current..
 
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oh well here he goes again... something that wikipedia didn't teaches is how to properly measure a RPL style current..
Yea, actually I posted on how it can be measured accurately a few years back.
It's in my 3rd paragraph of this post
http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/shedding-some-light-rpl-auto-shut-off-29989.html#post298923

The reason a regular amp meter can't be used accurately is because the RPL of which the Viasho electronics share in common with each other is a very low impedance / high current device. so when the system impedance is so low and current is high, the added impedance of meter itself adds a great amount of impedance percentage wise. The two current probe leads also a great deal, thus reducing the actual current by a fair percentage as well.

I myself am not capable of performing this current measurement on these as the LeCory DC current probe (which is non-invasive to the circuit was on loan to me from LeCroy and costs at least 3-4k last time I checked. It might be possible to pick one up cheaper on the used market now as that was several years ago or in a pinch, I might be able to get them to let me demo one again.
 
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@bootleg2go
I'm not talking about you. You didn't give misinformation to anyone :yh:
 
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I just got a response to my question from Frank about the divergence being so high, and also about the IR filter and here was his quite fast response:

"Hi,dear Dave

Well,it is not easy to reach 1.2mrad for such a powerful laser. If power is lower,it will be easy to get 1.2mrad.

Yes,this laser has the IR filter.

Best regards."


My only question: Why? If it's not the optics, it must be the diode itself, or the KTP/YAG crystals... Just curious what the theory behind this is. :)
 

plexus

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^^ larger crystals = larger beam = more heat dispersion = happy crystals
 
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That doesn't answer my question though. I realize a larger crystal set will have a larger beam typically but that doesn't address the divergence in question. Why would a higher output result in higher divergence?

Typically, a larger beam is easier to keep a low divergence on than a tighter beam from my personal experience... Though my old #100 from IQS had the smallest beam and lowest divergence I've ever seen in a laser.

Anyway, was just curious about why higher power results in lower divergence, in a slightly more scientific approach.
 
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the law is:
fatter beam: lower divergence
thinner beam: bigger divergence

So you're kinda stuck. Is it THAAT bad really?
 
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That doesn't answer my question though. I realize a larger crystal set will have a larger beam typically but that doesn't address the divergence in question. Why would a higher output result in higher divergence?

Typically, a larger beam is easier to keep a low divergence on than a tighter beam from my personal experience... Though my old #100 from IQS had the smallest beam and lowest divergence I've ever seen in a laser.

Anyway, was just curious about why higher power results in lower divergence, in a slightly more scientific approach.

A higher power may not only require a larger crystal set, the amount of resonant medium used may also be greater.

The end result may mean that a fat beam is produced, and to meet the output beam diameter specification, a higher-power final objective lens may be used. The job of this lens is to recollimate the output of the laser after it has been expanded once it leaves the cavity.

To meet the beam diameter specification, this beam will need to be expanded, and then recollimated- this is part of the cavity layout, the intracavity beam is extremely thin, albeit extremely divergent.

In any case, this beam will need to be re-collimated. Different lenses may be used, and if the original beam is already large, less expanding (and reduction of divergence) will take place.

The other explanation would be the quality (M2 factor) of the intracavity beam itself, which in turn reduces the effect of the expansion and recollimation.

In any case, 1.6mRad isn't too flashy, but at least your power output is stable.
 




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