lazeerer
0
- Joined
- May 25, 2010
- Messages
- 3,655
- Points
- 0
Red 251mW 650nm LCC in Black UltraFire Cree C3 Host "Blackout" Review/tutorial + Pics
Hey All,
:eg:Review On 650nm LCC Red Laser in a Black UltraFire Cree C3 Host.:eg:
Let me tell you Guys that this is such a COOL little host.
I have this exact same host in the Stainless
Steel version that has my 12x in and i also have another one of these black UltraFire Cree C3 host with the
Extension tube to hold 2x 14500 cells in my PHR-803T Budget build. So iam a BIG fan of the Cree C3 Host.
This build iam using a LCC "Long Closed Can" From the GGW-H20L Sled that i got from Scopeguy20.
I already have an LOC "Long Open Can" LPC-815 but some thing that i dont like about these diodes is that you
can see the Reflection of the diode internals on the wall when you are pointing it withing 10-15 feet and not as much
at around 20-25 feet as well as it has a line that looks as its coming out of the dote that seems to get larger
the further away you point the dot.
This is why i wanted the LCC from the GGW sled as it doesn't have this effect.
^Edit: Correction after further testing the wings are there just like any Red laser out there that i have seen in person. Not sure if any red diodes exist with out the wings. but i sure would like to get one. Any advice will be appreciated.
The Host sells for $10.00 >HERE<. You also get a nice holster that has Ultrafire written on it that seems well made.
The Host has a Nice smooth feel to it and came with no Imperfections on it.:wave: It has a Nice Black Reverse Clicky Switch
and comes with 2 Red Washers to prevent dust and dirt getting into the host. I will not replace the clicky cover to a
GITD one because i like the Blackout look. Some Have stated that they had to mod the tail clicky in order for the
Light to work/ Turn on. I have not had this Issue on any of my C3 Hosts. If you have this issue here is a Great Post that i saw on how to fix the Problem if you run into this situation Fix Tail Clicky The Threads Seem very good on the main body but on the removable head and tail the Aluminum is
Very thin so the threading is still good and screws together perfect, but i can see someone Cross threading them one time and
Damage them bad because of it being thin. So just be alittle careful.
I got the Heatsink From Mohrenberg when he was doing my 445nm 2.05W Heatsink. He did a :gj: on it Like always. Iam using an
Aixiz 650nm Glass Full Threaded lens and my New Modded Driver that i found out works Great for Red Lasers. The Driver can Handle
Up to ~700mA with a Single 14500 cell and ~1100mA with 1 18650 cell. But ONLY for Red lasers. This Driver will not work with 1 cell for 445nm. You will need to use 2X 3v or 3.6v cells to run a 445nm diode. I have not tested this driver yet with blu-ray "405nm" but i assume
it will work fine, but still not test so iam not going to say its works fine for me. I have Set the driver to 410mA. This Host is for
an AA size battery so i am using 1 Ultrafire 14500 3.7v cell.
So Overall I am Very Happy with this Build.
:thanks:Again Morgenburg & Scopeguy20 for the Heatsink and Sled.
Now for the Pictures & Tutorial...
This is Everything you will need to comeplete this build. There is the C3 Host, Sled witch contains the diode, Heatsink, Driver, 14500 Cell, 650nm Glass lens, Aixiz Module and Flaminpyro Wire.
You can see me pointing to the LCC "Long Closed Can"Diode. You will need to cut the Ribbon with some seizers and then wiggle the diode + its heatsink out of area thats its in. Becareful not to do this by holding the ribbon and wiggling this will most likely damage the pins. You can use a small screwdriver to get it out, But its pretty loose in there wiggling the diode in its heatsink with your finger should do it.
You will have something that looks like this. The diode is still in its heatsink.
Unfortunately i did not take picture of me extracting the diode out I new it would be to hard to explain, here is exactly how i did it. I fallowed Morgenburgs way that he does his LPC-815 Diode. The also Great thing that i found out about the GGW Red LCC diode that it has some type of clear protective sticker in front of the window so when you are doing this method that Morgenburgs is showing there is no chance anything will get on the window because of the clear sticker. I left it on in the next picture so you can see it if you look closely.
Now You have Extracted the Diode you will have something like this. As i said above if you look closely you can see the clear sticker in front of the window. This need to be removed. Remove the stick by simply peeling it off.
Now it is time to Press fit your diode into the Aixiz Module. I use a simple pluming piece that i got from Homedepot in the plumbing section for a few bucks. Flaminpyro sell a Great diode Press s well Diode Press Tool .
Now you will have something like this.
Now its time to set up your driver. I first modded the driver Like in this thread Here so iam able to run it at a lower current with a pot. I will have these drivers Available Modded already For a small fee if anyone is interested in one just PM me. There will be 2 Ranges LOW ~0 - ~1000mA & High ~1000mA to ~2A. Check the Thread for Updates. This is in Low Mode in this build. Then i simply just changed the Red & Black Wire to Flaminpyro Awesome wire Blue & Black. Blue is + to diode Black is - to diode.
Now your going to want to take your driver and heatsink and run the wires through as such.
Now you are going to want to were i am pointing to solder 2 tabs on either side. I want to mention that to use this Driver For Red diodes you have to insult the Aixiz Module from the heatsink it self. The reason for this is that in Red diodes they use the Case negative pin on the diode for its negative and its not insulated like the + - is on a 445nm/405nm diode. Because the Body of the host is case negative that would make it connect straight to the diode case negative pin witch will not work due to it not being insulated and this will cause the driver to short with the Diode case Negative pin and over driver the diode. So my solution to there is i used some thin thin thermal tape that Morgenburg sent me for my 2W 445nm build that i had some left over to fit just enough to fit in between the heatsink and Aixiz Module to insulate it from the case of the host. It was a very tight fit as i dint take into account to as Morgenburg to make me the heatsink alittle bigger. I also want to mention that see no less heat transfer performance with the thermal tape in between the Aixiz Module and Main Heatsink. So you have no worries with that.
So when having Morgenburg or anyone make you the heatsink make sure to tell them to make the Aixiz Module hole on the heatsink to allow you to insulate the module with some thermal tape. The thermal tape that Mo sent me is Amazing Stuff. I have it in my 2W 445nm build and it transfer the heat From the Heatsink to the body of the host amazingly, So that was a Great Find Mo.
If you are no experienced enough to do this Please do not attempt to use this driver with a red diode. I would say the best would be if you dont feel comfortable doing this in a host, this driver would work perfect with a Lab setup as the Driver would be external and not connected to the heatsink/Aixiz Module.
You will have something like this. Push the wires through the other side as well.
Now you will have something like this.
After Doing the above step i hooked it up to a test load and turned the pot on the driver to 410mA is where i wanted to set this build at. You can choose any mA you like but i would say keep it under 420mA for a long life as most have said this.
Now you want to Rub the Blue and Black + & - leads that go to the diode together a few times to discharger the capacitor on the driver then you want to solder your 2 lead to the diode. Before doing this Cut 2 1/3 inch size shrink tubing and run them up the wire. Solder the Blue Wire to the + of the diode and solder the Black Wire to the - of the diode.
Here is the Pin out of A Red Diode.
Now push up the shrink tubing and rub your soldering iron on them. Dont use the tip but the part of your iron that does not get as hot. Like the Neck of it. Push the diode in and sucure it with the Taped Hex Screw.
Now you will have something like this.
Now take your New Aixiz 650nm Full threaded glass lens and spring and install it by simply screwing everything together.
You will have something like this. Your Module is Done. All that is left is to push the Heatsink/Module into the Host head and Screw it together and it is Complete.:wave:
Gets My Thumbs Up...
Beam Video:
Jan.25 Update New Video:
2W 445nm with 251mW LCC 650nm Beam in Some fog:
LPM Reading:
Jan. 25 Update New Video:
Long Laser Power Meter test to see Stability of laser:
More Outdoor Night Shots coming.:evil:
Final Thoughts:
Iam very happy with this build. There is something about Red Laser that makes me fall in love with the Wavelength. By far 650nm is one of Favorite wavelength. When a Red laser is in a black host it makes it also look so much cooler to me and is why i chose to go with the Black UltraFire Cree C3.
The 14500 3.7v cell is still reading in at 4.12v and i have been messing around with it since yesterday. So i would say battery life is Great. The Heatsink does a Great Job in keeping the diode COOL. There is no Duty Cycle at all. I have ran this laser for ~5 minutes and its pretty stable with power and heat."Look at Long LPM test Above to see what i mean about it being very stable". The laser gets a little warm but then stays at that and does not increase in temperature. I usually fallow the 1 min on 1 min off Rule for all my laser unless iam making a video or test.
Its a great little Host and iam glad to have added it to my collection.
:thanks:For Looking.!!!
Hey All,
:eg:Review On 650nm LCC Red Laser in a Black UltraFire Cree C3 Host.:eg:
Let me tell you Guys that this is such a COOL little host.
I have this exact same host in the StainlessSteel version that has my 12x in and i also have another one of these black UltraFire Cree C3 host with the
Extension tube to hold 2x 14500 cells in my PHR-803T Budget build. So iam a BIG fan of the Cree C3 Host.
This build iam using a LCC "Long Closed Can" From the GGW-H20L Sled that i got from Scopeguy20.
I already have an LOC "Long Open Can" LPC-815 but some thing that i dont like about these diodes is that you
can see the Reflection of the diode internals on the wall when you are pointing it withing 10-15 feet and not as much
at around 20-25 feet as well as it has a line that looks as its coming out of the dote that seems to get larger
the further away you point the dot.
This is why i wanted the LCC from the GGW sled as it doesn't have this effect.
^Edit: Correction after further testing the wings are there just like any Red laser out there that i have seen in person. Not sure if any red diodes exist with out the wings. but i sure would like to get one. Any advice will be appreciated.
The Host sells for $10.00 >HERE<. You also get a nice holster that has Ultrafire written on it that seems well made.
The Host has a Nice smooth feel to it and came with no Imperfections on it.:wave: It has a Nice Black Reverse Clicky Switch
and comes with 2 Red Washers to prevent dust and dirt getting into the host. I will not replace the clicky cover to a
GITD one because i like the Blackout look. Some Have stated that they had to mod the tail clicky in order for the
Light to work/ Turn on. I have not had this Issue on any of my C3 Hosts.
If you have this issue here is a Great Post that i saw on how to fix the Problem if you run into this situation Fix Tail Clicky The Threads Seem very good on the main body but on the removable head and tail the Aluminum isVery thin so the threading is still good and screws together perfect, but i can see someone Cross threading them one time and
Damage them bad because of it being thin. So just be alittle careful.
I got the Heatsink From Mohrenberg when he was doing my 445nm 2.05W Heatsink. He did a :gj: on it Like always.
Iam using anAixiz 650nm Glass Full Threaded lens and my New Modded Driver that i found out works Great for Red Lasers. The Driver can Handle
Up to ~700mA with a Single 14500 cell and ~1100mA with 1 18650 cell. But ONLY for Red lasers. This Driver will not work with 1 cell for 445nm. You will need to use 2X 3v or 3.6v cells to run a 445nm diode. I have not tested this driver yet with blu-ray "405nm" but i assume
it will work fine, but still not test so iam not going to say its works fine for me. I have Set the driver to 410mA. This Host is for
an AA size battery so i am using 1 Ultrafire 14500 3.7v cell.
So Overall I am Very Happy with this Build.
:thanks:Again Morgenburg & Scopeguy20 for the Heatsink and Sled.
Now for the Pictures & Tutorial...
This is Everything you will need to comeplete this build. There is the C3 Host, Sled witch contains the diode, Heatsink, Driver, 14500 Cell, 650nm Glass lens, Aixiz Module and Flaminpyro Wire.
You can see me pointing to the LCC "Long Closed Can"Diode. You will need to cut the Ribbon with some seizers and then wiggle the diode + its heatsink out of area thats its in. Becareful not to do this by holding the ribbon and wiggling this will most likely damage the pins. You can use a small screwdriver to get it out, But its pretty loose in there wiggling the diode in its heatsink with your finger should do it.
You will have something that looks like this. The diode is still in its heatsink.
Unfortunately i did not take picture of me extracting the diode out I new it would be to hard to explain, here is exactly how i did it. I fallowed Morgenburgs way that he does his LPC-815 Diode. The also Great thing that i found out about the GGW Red LCC diode that it has some type of clear protective sticker in front of the window so when you are doing this method that Morgenburgs is showing there is no chance anything will get on the window because of the clear sticker. I left it on in the next picture so you can see it if you look closely.
Now You have Extracted the Diode you will have something like this. As i said above if you look closely you can see the clear sticker in front of the window. This need to be removed. Remove the stick by simply peeling it off.
Now it is time to Press fit your diode into the Aixiz Module. I use a simple pluming piece that i got from Homedepot in the plumbing section for a few bucks. Flaminpyro sell a Great diode Press s well Diode Press Tool .
Now you will have something like this.
Now its time to set up your driver. I first modded the driver Like in this thread Here so iam able to run it at a lower current with a pot. I will have these drivers Available Modded already For a small fee if anyone is interested in one just PM me. There will be 2 Ranges LOW ~0 - ~1000mA & High ~1000mA to ~2A. Check the Thread for Updates. This is in Low Mode in this build. Then i simply just changed the Red & Black Wire to Flaminpyro Awesome wire Blue & Black. Blue is + to diode Black is - to diode.
Now your going to want to take your driver and heatsink and run the wires through as such.
Now you are going to want to were i am pointing to solder 2 tabs on either side. I want to mention that to use this Driver For Red diodes you have to insult the Aixiz Module from the heatsink it self. The reason for this is that in Red diodes they use the Case negative pin on the diode for its negative and its not insulated like the + - is on a 445nm/405nm diode. Because the Body of the host is case negative that would make it connect straight to the diode case negative pin witch will not work due to it not being insulated and this will cause the driver to short with the Diode case Negative pin and over driver the diode. So my solution to there is i used some thin thin thermal tape that Morgenburg sent me for my 2W 445nm build that i had some left over to fit just enough to fit in between the heatsink and Aixiz Module to insulate it from the case of the host. It was a very tight fit as i dint take into account to as Morgenburg to make me the heatsink alittle bigger. I also want to mention that see no less heat transfer performance with the thermal tape in between the Aixiz Module and Main Heatsink. So you have no worries with that.
So when having Morgenburg or anyone make you the heatsink make sure to tell them to make the Aixiz Module hole on the heatsink to allow you to insulate the module with some thermal tape. The thermal tape that Mo sent me is Amazing Stuff. I have it in my 2W 445nm build and it transfer the heat From the Heatsink to the body of the host amazingly, So that was a Great Find Mo.
If you are no experienced enough to do this Please do not attempt to use this driver with a red diode. I would say the best would be if you dont feel comfortable doing this in a host, this driver would work perfect with a Lab setup as the Driver would be external and not connected to the heatsink/Aixiz Module.
You will have something like this. Push the wires through the other side as well.
Now you will have something like this.
After Doing the above step i hooked it up to a test load and turned the pot on the driver to 410mA is where i wanted to set this build at. You can choose any mA you like but i would say keep it under 420mA for a long life as most have said this.
Now you want to Rub the Blue and Black + & - leads that go to the diode together a few times to discharger the capacitor on the driver then you want to solder your 2 lead to the diode. Before doing this Cut 2 1/3 inch size shrink tubing and run them up the wire. Solder the Blue Wire to the + of the diode and solder the Black Wire to the - of the diode.
Here is the Pin out of A Red Diode.
Now push up the shrink tubing and rub your soldering iron on them. Dont use the tip but the part of your iron that does not get as hot. Like the Neck of it. Push the diode in and sucure it with the Taped Hex Screw.
Now you will have something like this.
Now take your New Aixiz 650nm Full threaded glass lens and spring and install it by simply screwing everything together.
You will have something like this. Your Module is Done. All that is left is to push the Heatsink/Module into the Host head and Screw it together and it is Complete.:wave:
Gets My Thumbs Up...
Beam Video:
Jan.25 Update New Video:
2W 445nm with 251mW LCC 650nm Beam in Some fog:
LPM Reading:
Jan. 25 Update New Video:
Long Laser Power Meter test to see Stability of laser:
More Outdoor Night Shots coming.:evil:
Final Thoughts:
Iam very happy with this build.
There is something about Red Laser that makes me fall in love with the Wavelength. By far 650nm is one of Favorite wavelength. When a Red laser is in a black host it makes it also look so much cooler to me and is why i chose to go with the Black UltraFire Cree C3.The 14500 3.7v cell is still reading in at 4.12v and i have been messing around with it since yesterday. So i would say battery life is Great.
The Heatsink does a Great Job in keeping the diode COOL. There is no Duty Cycle at all. I have ran this laser for ~5 minutes and its pretty stable with power and heat."Look at Long LPM test Above to see what i mean about it being very stable". The laser gets a little warm but then stays at that and does not increase in temperature. I usually fallow the 1 min on 1 min off Rule for all my laser unless iam making a video or test.Its a great little Host and iam glad to have added it to my collection.
:thanks:For Looking.!!!
Last edited:
