bobhaha
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This is a review and tutorial all rolled into one..
Ok lets get started,
I saw this module on o-like's site, and they looked pretty good so I thought I would give it a go.. turns out to be a very easy build, looks great and works perfect.
The package arrived in about 6 days (standard shipping). It was very well packaged and I was impressed with the condition of the module. The module is a 50mW green module bought from o-like ($28 + $4 shipping)
Link: www.0-like.com
It is approx 12mm in diameter and 61.5 mm in length. It has two options for set up.. one is case positive where the host is the positive contact or there is another option for positive and negative leads to attach onto (see picture 1)
The module is of very high quality, the dot has very little scatter and is sharp and bright. It has adjustable focus (use of special tool required). But with the use of the Rayfoss lens the scatter does become a little worse.. Also another con about this module is that it is NOT ir filtered so you may wanna invest in some good saftey goggles if you wanna start playing around with this laser!
In this picture you can see the module press fitted into the middle section of the host this acts as the positive contact to the module... you can also see the solder points if leads were to be attached!
The next part of the build was the Rayfoss Waterproof Host! I stumbled apon this website by accident but I don't regret ever looking at their hosts! Thier hosts are breath taking, not to mention very much within my price range for this build! Rayfoss has these host for $16 + $2 shipping! $18 all up for a complete host. This host can carry one (1) cr123 battery.
Link for the host: Rayfoss
This host has its pros and cons, just like any other host does, but the pros way out weigh the cons!
Pros:
Looks great!
The host is WATERPROOF! (all joints are sealed with an o-ring)
The top part of the host, has a built in lens (could also be a con!)
Host is well built and fits together nicely
Easy to press fit a module into the host (good design!)
Is heavy in you hand and feels good to hold
Nice, good quality click on/off switch (options click on, momentary off, click off)
Avalible in three color options, chrome, grey or black
Cons:
Top part of the host wobbled abit in its thread (put a bit of teflon tape around it and woorks great!)
Top part of the host has an in built lens which creates a lot of scattering
Battery wobbles around abit in the host (but not that bad)
This is a picture of my host all assembled!
TUTORIAL!
Ok this is the tutorial part of my thread!
The only thing you will need to fully assemble this laser kit is:
1) A vice (or other tool that squeezes and that can be controlled!)
2) A scrap metal plate
3) Block of old wood
4) Soldering iron
5) Solder
6) Small wire peice
7) Hot glue (and hot glue gun DUH!)
8) About 15 mins of your time!
Ok first things first, set up your solerding iron and wait till it gets hot, next as its warming up cut a small peice of wire and strip the ends. At this point you must solder the wire across the switch to bypass it. Meaning you do not need to click the switch in order for the laser to turn on or off! You do this by placing a small blob of solder on to the end of your soldering iron and then placing the wire on to the already solid solder on either side of the switch. You then touch the solid solder with the blob on the soldering iron and then remove the heat to solidify the blob of solder. Next clean up the contact and repeat for the opersite side!
Here is where you have to solder the two ends of the wire to!
Once you have bypassed the switch please make sure you insulate the connections after checking the whole module will fit through the hole in the middle section of the host. This can be done with a dab of hot glue on the solder points as seen in the picture above. Or otherwise remove the switch and make a direct bridge connection without the switch, you can safe keep the switch elsewhere.
The next step is to press fit the module into the host (you may like to test the module by hooking up a battery to it making sure you bridge connection is working correctly!). In order to press fit the module into the host I recommend taking as much time as possible to get it right the first time! That means make sure the module is aligned while beening pressed into place and that you press it slowly and carefully. As you press fit it, you should have a metal plate and a block of wood handy, set the metal plate at one end of the vice and a wood block at the other. Next place the module (lens side) towards the metal plate and the end of the barrel (with just the end of the host removed, thats the clicky on/off part!) then begin to press it into place.. you should make sure the front of the host is able to screw into place and that the battery is able to touch the negative contact and the on/off switch as well...
If that has been done correctly you now have a brand new 50mW green laser pointer!
Oh yes and how could I forget about the beautiful beam shot that can be achieved with this build!
Btw if any one need a link to some cr123 batteries here is a link at DX
DealExtreme: $6.44 Soshine 3.0V CR123A Batteries with Translucent Protective Case (2-Pack) (rechargable, no charger included, but would suggest paying a bit more for better quality ones!)
Hope this review/tut was helpfull, any questions or comments please feel free to ask!
Ok lets get started,
I saw this module on o-like's site, and they looked pretty good so I thought I would give it a go.. turns out to be a very easy build, looks great and works perfect.
The package arrived in about 6 days (standard shipping). It was very well packaged and I was impressed with the condition of the module. The module is a 50mW green module bought from o-like ($28 + $4 shipping)
Link: www.0-like.com
It is approx 12mm in diameter and 61.5 mm in length. It has two options for set up.. one is case positive where the host is the positive contact or there is another option for positive and negative leads to attach onto (see picture 1)
The module is of very high quality, the dot has very little scatter and is sharp and bright. It has adjustable focus (use of special tool required). But with the use of the Rayfoss lens the scatter does become a little worse.. Also another con about this module is that it is NOT ir filtered so you may wanna invest in some good saftey goggles if you wanna start playing around with this laser!
In this picture you can see the module press fitted into the middle section of the host this acts as the positive contact to the module... you can also see the solder points if leads were to be attached!
The next part of the build was the Rayfoss Waterproof Host! I stumbled apon this website by accident but I don't regret ever looking at their hosts! Thier hosts are breath taking, not to mention very much within my price range for this build! Rayfoss has these host for $16 + $2 shipping! $18 all up for a complete host. This host can carry one (1) cr123 battery.
Link for the host: Rayfoss
This host has its pros and cons, just like any other host does, but the pros way out weigh the cons!
Pros:
Looks great!
The host is WATERPROOF! (all joints are sealed with an o-ring)
The top part of the host, has a built in lens (could also be a con!)
Host is well built and fits together nicely
Easy to press fit a module into the host (good design!)
Is heavy in you hand and feels good to hold
Nice, good quality click on/off switch (options click on, momentary off, click off)
Avalible in three color options, chrome, grey or black
Cons:
Top part of the host wobbled abit in its thread (put a bit of teflon tape around it and woorks great!)
Top part of the host has an in built lens which creates a lot of scattering
Battery wobbles around abit in the host (but not that bad)
This is a picture of my host all assembled!
TUTORIAL!
Ok this is the tutorial part of my thread!
The only thing you will need to fully assemble this laser kit is:
1) A vice (or other tool that squeezes and that can be controlled!)
2) A scrap metal plate
3) Block of old wood
4) Soldering iron
5) Solder
6) Small wire peice
7) Hot glue (and hot glue gun DUH!)
8) About 15 mins of your time!
Ok first things first, set up your solerding iron and wait till it gets hot, next as its warming up cut a small peice of wire and strip the ends. At this point you must solder the wire across the switch to bypass it. Meaning you do not need to click the switch in order for the laser to turn on or off! You do this by placing a small blob of solder on to the end of your soldering iron and then placing the wire on to the already solid solder on either side of the switch. You then touch the solid solder with the blob on the soldering iron and then remove the heat to solidify the blob of solder. Next clean up the contact and repeat for the opersite side!
Here is where you have to solder the two ends of the wire to!
Once you have bypassed the switch please make sure you insulate the connections after checking the whole module will fit through the hole in the middle section of the host. This can be done with a dab of hot glue on the solder points as seen in the picture above. Or otherwise remove the switch and make a direct bridge connection without the switch, you can safe keep the switch elsewhere.
The next step is to press fit the module into the host (you may like to test the module by hooking up a battery to it making sure you bridge connection is working correctly!). In order to press fit the module into the host I recommend taking as much time as possible to get it right the first time! That means make sure the module is aligned while beening pressed into place and that you press it slowly and carefully. As you press fit it, you should have a metal plate and a block of wood handy, set the metal plate at one end of the vice and a wood block at the other. Next place the module (lens side) towards the metal plate and the end of the barrel (with just the end of the host removed, thats the clicky on/off part!) then begin to press it into place.. you should make sure the front of the host is able to screw into place and that the battery is able to touch the negative contact and the on/off switch as well...
If that has been done correctly you now have a brand new 50mW green laser pointer!
Oh yes and how could I forget about the beautiful beam shot that can be achieved with this build!
Btw if any one need a link to some cr123 batteries here is a link at DX
DealExtreme: $6.44 Soshine 3.0V CR123A Batteries with Translucent Protective Case (2-Pack) (rechargable, no charger included, but would suggest paying a bit more for better quality ones!)
Hope this review/tut was helpfull, any questions or comments please feel free to ask!
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