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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Pontiacg5 Machined Host

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I was recently sent a host machined by Pontiacg5 for review. This will be done in stages as I build it into a 445 powerhouse.

The housing is made of aluminum and designed for an 18650 cell. It is controled by a side switch and has a front focus ring. Fit and finish are very good with clean threads important to good electrical connection.
The housing weighs 3.2 oz without the switch assembly. The diode mount and focus ring weigh 1.1 oz together. It measures 0.994" Dia x 5.155" Long.

3207-ponthousing-1.jpg

1. The focus ring is grooved and has 9mm threads for Aixiz style lenses. It has a good smooth fit to the diode mount portion.
2. The diode mount is threaded for the lens assembly and has a pocket for the standard diode package.
3. The switch housing came with a switch assembly built-in and a metal actuator button. The assembly is easily pressed out. The installed switch may be a little light for 1+ Amp applications but other switches are being considered. The switch assembly also has a battery contact spring and a wire lead for connection to a driver. (Note: In this and all my builds, when there is a long spring, I add a rubber grommet around the spring to prevent shorting in case the spring bends. I found this early with small cells.) The switch mount has a machined half circle area for a small driver assembly. I recommend the use of small (26-28 AWG) stranded wire in all lasers like this to prevent breaking diode leads.
4. The battery holder portion is just that and it has a good finish. I would recommend leaving a high spot in the bottom of this portion of the housing during machining to make for better cell contact.
5. A note about the lens threads. When Pontiacg5 built this prototype, he didn't have a metal Aixiz style lens and used the plastic assembly for the build. This model will not accept a metal lens assembly like a 405-G-1. I will correct this when I find a tap. The problem is noted and will be correct for future builds.

More later as I build.

HMike
 
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Well lucky you Hemlock_Mike, thats a sweet host.
I'm interested to see how the button is mounted to the switch, or how it is kept in place from falling out. Keep us posted:)
 
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Rpal ---
The button (actuator) is inserted first into the host and then the switch assembly is pushed in so it alligns with the actuator. The machined plastic switch holder maintains position.
It's very similar to the green pen method which we all got to know too well! This slides in with finger pressure.

HMike
 
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Pontiacg5 -- we need to talk.

The small space for a driver is a problem in this design as I told you. I even milled a bigger pocket. Even with small stranded wire, I broke both wires off the new 445 diode in assembly. 8 turns in that small space is a killer as I suspected. I can't figure a better way --yet.

HMike
 

daguin

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Pontiacg5 -- we need to talk.

The small space for a driver is a problem in this design as I told you. I even milled a bigger pocket. Even with small stranded wire, I broke both wires off the new 445 diode in assembly. 8 turns in that small space is a killer as I suspected. I can't figure a better way --yet.

HMike


I think that we are going to have to use a little longer wires between the driver and the diode.

The leads must be long enough to reach from the diode, THROUGH the switch housing, to the driver which is mounted on the plastic "platform" which is still OUTSIDE the switch housing.

The completed circuit would simply have the wiring run through the switch housing.

Then we can simply screw the front on, with the driver switch assembly turning freely. After the front is screwed down tight, THEN we can push the switch assembly into the switch housing, allowing the wires to "fold smoothly" into the pocket.

It will be a bit awkward, but I think that will work

Peace,
dave
 
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Dave -- Try it.
I tried it that way and even with my 26AWG stranded wire, the driver board kept tipping and blocking full closure of the two sections. Damn -- I really want this to work but I need to try again. I even machined more material from the switch mount which is a nice feature.

HMike
 
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daguin

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Dave -- Try it.
I tryed it that way and even with my 26AWG stranded wire, the driver board kept tipping and blocking full closure of the two sections. Damn -- I really want this to work but I need to try again. I even machined more material from the switch mount which is a nice feature.

HMike

In my mind it works fine. I NEED more than 24 hours in the day right now :tinfoil:

Peace,
dave
 
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Dave -- I used 26 AWG stranded - almost 3" per lead and with double heat shrink for strain relief -- 28 Awg will still handle 1+ Amps. If you have that - use it. I may try again with 30 AWG solid. The microboost still has to fit in there.
HMike

My Old School books rate 30 AWG at 0.143 Amps but look at a 1 Amp fuse and tell me 30 AWG won't handle 1+ Amps!!!!
 
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daguin

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Dave -- I used 26 AWG stranded - almost 3" per lead and with double heat shrink for strain relief -- 28 Awg will still handle 1+ Amps. If you have that - use it. I may try again with 30 AWG solid. The microboost still has to fit in there.
HMike

My Old School books rate 30 AWG at 0.143 Amps but look at a 1 Amp fuse and tell me 30 AWG won't handle 1+ Amps!!!!

I sent a clearer explanation in PM. I'll try to get to it. I have three other jobs in front of it :(

Finals are this week and then some more time off :)

Peace,
dave
 
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Dave ---
You are getting me back to my original assembly attempt. Maybe a gleam of light here with your input. This will be a nice housing when finalized.
Thanks -- HMike
 
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I've made some adjustments to the design, namely adding more space for a driver.

I've got the thread situation figured out, there are practically no M9x0.5 taps and there are no bottoming taps. After measuring the pitch and thread depth on a variety of aixiz lenses I believe I have the issue worked out, but if you go over to this thread (http://laserpointerforums.com/f41/aixiz-lasers-445-lens-coating-mistake-52980.html) you can see all of the different lenses aixiz has sold, and each one is slightly bigger or smaller. Its a fine line to dance when cutting the threads because I want them to fit snug, but I need them to fit a wide variety of lenses.

The method I used for the focus adapter on this revision is not the best, it relies on one thread gripping the lens tighter than the other side. That works fine if the lenses are consistent, but that is not the case. If I cut them to fit a metal lens the plastic lens won't focus anymore. If I cut them for a plastic lens the glass one won't fit (sigh!) I have this problem worked out though and everything should be good, another testing round will confirm that for sure!

The problem with having to solder the wires to the diode and then thread the assembly together was noted when I made the host. The solution is fairly easy, and the finished model will use the same method as this. I find that twisting the wire around a screwdriver gives it a spring like quality and stresses it less in a situation like this. I will make an entire assembly video before any hosts are sold depicting the process.

(my paint skills have left me tonight, hopefully this is understandable!)
assembly.jpg


(please excuse the typo, I don't know of any way to "slder" wires!)

I've changed the style of the head a little bit and added more mass to the head, quite a bit more to be exact. Solidworks pegs the head assembly by itself in at 37.6 grams, but that is without threads, so the real figure will be slightly lower. I've added some appearance features to make it look a little less boring, but I still haven't decided on a final color or name.

Here is the web page from my temporary website dedicated to the host, there is a little more info on there that I didn't post here.

18650 Host


Dave and Mike, I think I've got what I was after from these test hosts. If you would like to continue with the build that would be awesome, but since I've made some changes to the design it makes less sense to build on an outdated model. It seems the flaws of these first prototype hosts are pretty good grounds to discontinue a build by themselves. So consider yourselves off the hook :D

Thanks again guys! I leaned a few things from this testing I wouldn't have without your help!
 
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daguin

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I've made some adjustments to the design, namely adding more space for a driver.

I've got the thread situation figured out, there are practically no M9x0.5 taps and there are no bottoming taps. After measuring the pitch and thread depth on a variety of aixiz lenses I believe I have the issue worked out, but if you go over to this thread (http://laserpointerforums.com/f41/aixiz-lasers-445-lens-coating-mistake-52980.html) you can see all of the different lenses aixiz has sold, and each one is slightly bigger or smaller. Its a fine line to dance when cutting the threads because I want them to fit snug, but I need them to fit a wide variety of lenses.

The method I used for the focus adapter on this revision is not the best, it relies on one thread gripping the lens tighter than the other side. That works fine if the lenses are consistent, but that is not the case. If I cut them to fit a metal lens the plastic lens won't focus anymore. If I cut them for a plastic lens the glass one won't fit (sigh!) I have this problem worked out though and everything should be good, another testing round will confirm that for sure!

The problem with having to solder the wires to the diode and then thread the assembly together was noted when I made the host. The solution is fairly easy, and the finished model will use the same method as this. I find that twisting the wire around a screwdriver gives it a spring like quality and stresses it less in a situation like this. I will make an entire assembly video before any hosts are sold depicting the process.

(my paint skills have left me tonight, hopefully this is understandable!)
assembly.jpg


(please excuse the typo, I don't know of any way to "slder" wires!)

I've changed the style of the head a little bit and added more mass to the head, quite a bit more to be exact. Solidworks pegs the head assembly by itself in at 37.6 grams, but that is without threads, so the real figure will be slightly lower. I've added some appearance features to make it look a little less boring, but I still haven't decided on a final color or name.

Here is the web page from my temporary website dedicated to the host, there is a little more info on there that I didn't post here.

18650 Host


Dave and Mike, I think I've got what I was after from these test hosts. If you would like to continue with the build that would be awesome, but since I've made some changes to the design it makes less sense to build on an outdated model. It seems the flaws of these first prototype hosts are pretty good grounds to discontinue a build by themselves. So consider yourselves off the hook :D

Thanks again guys! I leaned a few things from this testing I wouldn't have without your help!

Nice drawing :)

There is actually enough room on the switch assembly, driver "platform" for the driver to be set sideways in the host. This leaves even more room for the wires to be "folded" into.

We came up with another couple of ideas as well. Since I don't have to build a tutorial on how to use this prototype host, I may experiment a bit more ;) I'll let you know how it turns out :san:

Try Victor machinery Exchange for the bottoming tap

Metric Taps - Taper, Plug, Bottoming, and Spiral Point - millimeter sizes.

About 60% down the page. You are looking for:

TAMB-9-5 -- 9mm x .5 HS Bottoming Tap

Peace,
dave
 
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Well guess what! The "new" aixiz 445 coated lenes fit this host.

I swear, this lens situation will drive me up the wall before this is all figured out :D

I am currently building a 445 into this host, just because I have all the parts. I'll post some results later.
 




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