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FrozenGate by Avery

Odicforce Entry Level Laser Kits






Man that was like a year ago. Cant remember his name, but I remember he was posting pix of his kits. I think he was having issues with his drivers at the time.
 
This is great ! Just today my old dilda felt on the ground and stopped working. I disconnected the diode and measured everything. It's the same driver I was watching whole day. Pitty I did not noticed this before, cause I already have new style dilda ordered now for several days. Could be great first build.

PS: The diode is dead. Pins moved INSIDE of the diode and the 'unused' pin completely fell off with little ease, when I was inspecting why does it wiggle.
 
Morgan said:
2 x 3.0V RCR2s

M
:)
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Does it include the batteries?

If not, can you recommend some good Rechargeable CR2's I can get on Amazon?

Also, I'm getting a CR2 charger with my Rayfoss 405nm. It says that the laser runs at 3.7V. I assume this means that the included CR2 and charger are 3.7V. Does this mean that I couldn't use the charger from Rayfoss with a 3.0V CR2?
 
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No, batteries are not included but they are available (with or without a charger) on the OdicForce site for a very reasonable price. :yh:

Not sure about your charger though, sorry.
 
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agravlin said:
Does it include the batteries?

If not, can you recommend some good Rechargeable CR2's I can get on Amazon?

Also, I'm getting a CR2 charger with my Rayfoss 405nm. It says that the laser runs at 3.7V. I assume this means that the included CR2 and charger are 3.7V. Does this mean that I couldn't use the charger from Rayfoss with a 3.0V CR2?
Click to expand...

You can't mix voltages for 3.0V and 3.7V. The way Lithium batteries charge is different to other types. They are usually 2 or 3 stage chargers. Constant Current/Constant Voltage/Third one I think is trickle to reach 100% capacity. You normally find the cheaper chargers only use the first two stages and never quite become full unless you leave them charging past the point the light tells you they are fully charged, (if that makes sense!).

If you try to charge a 3.0V unprotected battery in a 3.7V charger it will try and charge to 4.2V and you run the risk of catastrophic failure, (explosion!). A protected battery will just shutdown and become damaged. Trying to charge a 3.7V in a 3.0V charger may be safer but next to pointless as you will never get the correct voltage for a full charge. In an emergency I can see it taking some useful charge but can't think of any emergency that would require me to try it.:tinfoil:

M
:)
 
Morgan said:
You can't mix voltages for 3.0V and 3.7V. The way Lithium batteries charge is different to other types. They are usually 2 or 3 stage chargers. Constant Current/Constant Voltage/Third one I think is trickle to reach 100% capacity. You normally find the cheaper chargers only use the first two stages and never quite become full unless you leave them charging past the point the light tells you they are fully charged, (if that makes sense!).

If you try to charge a 3.0V unprotected battery in a 3.7V charger it will try and charge to 4.2V and you run the risk of catastrophic failure, (explosion!). A protected battery will just shutdown and become damaged. Trying to charge a 3.7V in a 3.0V charger may be safer but next to pointless as you will never get the correct voltage for a full charge. In an emergency I can see it taking some useful charge but can't think of any emergency that would require me to try it.:tinfoil:

M
:)
Click to expand...

Well, that's lame. I wish the industries would standardize this stuff.
 
My kit arrived today :D

A little busy at work this week so it will have to wait for the weekend before I can put it together.

I'll take pics and try to do a review from a n00b perspective. ;)
 
This is bloddy anoying. :mad:
I got the 100mW kit, could not find my solderiron and brought the kit to work.

So there I was with an assembled laser, fits an AA battery, but gave no light.

The driver does not accept less than 3V, so I have dissasembled the clicky and run a cable in, one wire entangled in the spring, the other caught in the tread.
The other end holds 2 AA´s and some tape. (Pretty dot:drool:)

Ok, it is a nice kit, and simple to assemple, but it would have been nice to know what batteries it takes in advance.
Now I have to go ashore and try to locate two CR2´s somewhere.

ETA: I just found 2 LR1, small 1,5V alcaline, it works.
 
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That's a fair comment Toke. I think the instructions said the driver was a 6V one but specific details would help.

Glad you got it up and running though!

@wizzard67 - I look forward to seeing how a noob gets on with this kit. Be sure to but the driver right up the heatsink and get it square. This will make the screwing in easier and make sure the battery contacts properly with the spring that you have also installed squarely. ;) Good luck.

M
:)
 
Morgan said:
That's a fair comment Toke. I think the instructions said the driver was a 6V one but specific details would help.

Glad you got it up and running though!
Click to expand...

The 6V on the driver instructions were a bit of a clue, like the lack of anything coil-like on the driver. (It's just, I know that boost drivers are possible/exist and thought this was one.)

My biggest problem was not knowing that the CR2 battery existed. :yabbem:

I wrote to Odicforce and suggested a new headline for this kit.


A pair of CR2's will likely improve the performance. (3V > 6V)
 
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Morgan said:
@wizzard67 - I look forward to seeing how a noob gets on with this kit. Be sure to but the driver right up the heatsink and get it square. This will make the screwing in easier and make sure the battery contacts properly with the spring that you have also installed squarely. ;) Good luck.

M
:)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips Morgan, hopefully I'll start my build in the next week or so :)
 
I think I need a new camera.
3356t-imag0055.jpg


This is a beamshot from my new 100mW red kit.
There is smoke in the rooms.
 
^Yeah... Not a lot to be gleaned from such a small photo. YOu can post bigger ones using a free hosting site?

2 CR2 batteries will DEFINITELY improve your output. The driver probably isn't able to regulate the current properly at that voltage. You will likely see a vast improvement when you get them, not least in stability. Good call to suggest an added note to specify batteries though.

@ wizzard67 - No problem!

M
:)
 
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