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| | #26 | ||
| Class 3R Laser Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: curr. Vienna, AT
Posts: 1,016
Rep Power: 34 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
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![]() but... talk about a serious amount of effort... o_O
__________________ Traveller - Geneva * Melbourne * Miami * Vienna lasers * Reviews * PhotoGear * Blades Last edited by Traveller; 03-02-2010 at 12:50 PM. | ||
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| | #27 |
| Class 3B Laser Join Date: May 2009 Location: Lost somewhere in the EU mess ;)
Posts: 2,983
Rep Power: 178 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ^ Heh, i know ..... unfortunately, the one that have blocked the threads, used Loctite threadblocker, strong type, and it's one of the worse glues to take away, this one ..... it start to loose at 150 C, but at this temperatue, you damage also the crystal and diode, and the glue that hold the expander ..... so, the only way for do this, is to reach first to detach the tube from the crystal assembly, and then heat it a bit more .....
__________________ High Impulse Multipath Neutron Laser (mark 9 ) (LOL)
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| | #28 | |
| Class 2 Laser Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bosnia and Herzegovina
Posts: 459
Rep Power: 14 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
It's almost impossible to not damage module. What is the best divergence you managed to get from this module? Can you achieve better divergence than it was before when it was glued?
__________________ My lasers: Homemade Red laser @410mA LOC + AixiZ glass lens Homemade Blue-Ray laser @ 100mA PHR-803T O-like Green (532nm) 150mW module in UF WF-501B host 808nm 1W Homemade IR portable laser 3 motor spirograph (Homemade) | |
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| | #29 |
| Class 3B Laser Join Date: May 2009 Location: Lost somewhere in the EU mess ;)
Posts: 2,983
Rep Power: 178 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
@ ReNNo: i don't have a secure way for measure divergence, actually (must invent something, first or after ), and the modification was made, mainly, for try to make the module "focusable at short distance for burn" ..... can say you only this, about focusing it on distance:As new, the dot, looking at it with a telescope, was covering at least one meter of diameter, shined on the wall of a church that i use as target for these tests (is at 3600 meters away, in line with one of my windows, and at night, there's absolutely none in the line of sight )After the modification, i reached with a lot of patience, to obtain a spot that was looking at least the half of the original one, on the wall, but not better ..... also a very little movement is enough for unfocus it again, when it's on the edge of the maximum focus, and i still don't know exactly why ..... probably, starting from a focusing lens with just 5,5mm of useable diameter, there's no way for obtain anything better, also if basically the assemble expander/collimator work like a beam expander (too much low diameter, i guess) I have also wondered to try and "sacrificate" another 50mW one, for make a different experiment (putting a tube with an additional negative lens just in front of the original expander, then using a 10mm focusing lens, for try to build a "pseudo beam expander" directly inside the focusing assembly), but then i had lots of other problems, and this idea, like a lot of other things, suffered a stop ..... and don't know when i can try it, actually, sorry .....
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| | #30 | |
| Class 3R Laser Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,269
Rep Power: 18 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
FS: DIY Green Kit! Host, Heatsink - Easy Assembly! I'm assuming you were talking about that pic. | |
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| | #31 |
| Class 2 Laser Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bosnia and Herzegovina
Posts: 459
Rep Power: 14 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Burning is not what I'm interested in at this moment but must admit that you did great job because it's risky. I calculated that dot at 3600 meter must be at least 5.5m in diameter (1.527mRad) .... not even close to one meter. In my case dot at 3600 meter is at least 8 meters. The easiest way to measure divergence is to put white paper at distance of about 10 meters and measure dot's diameter with safety glasses. It's not the most accurate method but it will tell you approximate value. That idea with additional negative lens is great but difficult to get done if you don't have access to CNC so you can make everything that you need. I really want to know what is the lowest divergence that you can get with 150mW O-Like module. When you focus your module to infinity what is beam diameter at few millimeters from aperture? EDIT: @ZRTMWA I'll ask him about divergence by private message....I don't see any of these information at his topic.
__________________ My lasers: Homemade Red laser @410mA LOC + AixiZ glass lens Homemade Blue-Ray laser @ 100mA PHR-803T O-like Green (532nm) 150mW module in UF WF-501B host 808nm 1W Homemade IR portable laser 3 motor spirograph (Homemade) Last edited by ReNNo; 03-02-2010 at 07:53 PM. |
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| | #32 | |
| Class 3R Laser Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,797
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I have improved divergence of an O-Like module by replacing the expander lens to get more expansion. Is that what you were talking about? An additional negative lens will obstruct the beam path and will result in less power, so I think replacing the lens rather than adding another one is a more efficient method. The problem with these modules is that the expander lens does not allow the beam to get any wider than ~0.8mm at the final collimating lens so the final divergence is usually larger than 1.2mRad. Aligning the expander lens was a real pain in the ass, though and took a LONG time to get perfectly centered. Loosening the collimator lens to adjust it for the new expander is very difficult also. The tube that houses the collimator lens, however can be easily removed with some pliers. Considering the amount of effort and time it takes to modify one of these, it's really not worth it. If you happen to get a decent one, you may as well just leave it. I have trashed a good module trying to get better divergence (<1.2mRad).
__________________ DIY LCC 655nm 210mW Lens Review DIY Pen 635nm 7mW No 589nm Yet CNI Chrome Pen 532nm 130mW PGL-III-C 532nm 650mW Review PGL-III-C 473nm 140mW Review DIY 445nm 980mW Media 12X 405nm 480mW Media For Sale? Check out my Flickr for pictures of my collection! << Make your own laser warning stickers! << | |
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| | #33 |
| Class 3B Laser Join Date: May 2009 Location: Lost somewhere in the EU mess ;)
Posts: 2,983
Rep Power: 178 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
@ ReNNo: no, i actually don't have access to CNC or tools, also for this it's all stopped ..... i really have no free time, in this period, and don't know when i can try, too. @ RA_pierce: what expander have you used ? ..... the original one is already a damn high dioptry lens ..... That what i mean, basically, is this: ![]() The first scheme is a standard module, where the expander enlarge the beam just few degrees ..... i was planning to add a piece of tube with a second negative lens, for expand it more, and substitute the original 6mm collimator with a 10mm lens in a second tube (so it come out from the front and can be focused), making the beam more "fat" at the start, but, hopefully, making it work like a "built-in beam expander", with the possibility to collimate it better at distance ..... i know that this probably cause a little loss of power, from the second negative lens, it was just an idea for an experiment, anyway .....
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| | #34 | |
| Class 3R Laser Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,797
Rep Power: 126 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
It improved minimum divergence slightly but not enough to have been worth the time aligning it. Regarding the second diagram, I have done exactly that with my X105 years ago. I have lots of spare parts and disassembled modules... this thread has inspired me to experiment with this...
__________________ DIY LCC 655nm 210mW Lens Review DIY Pen 635nm 7mW No 589nm Yet CNI Chrome Pen 532nm 130mW PGL-III-C 532nm 650mW Review PGL-III-C 473nm 140mW Review DIY 445nm 980mW Media 12X 405nm 480mW Media For Sale? Check out my Flickr for pictures of my collection! << Make your own laser warning stickers! << | |
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| | #35 |
| Class 2 Laser Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Bosnia and Herzegovina
Posts: 459
Rep Power: 14 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Collimating lens that comes with O-like module is 5mm in diameter and beam that this lens collects is <1mm in diameter. Maybe you can find another diffuser that can make beam fatter (maybe 3mm). Or you can use collimating lens with longer focal point so you can put lens few millimeters more away from diffuser... it will also make beam fatter that means better divergence.
__________________ My lasers: Homemade Red laser @410mA LOC + AixiZ glass lens Homemade Blue-Ray laser @ 100mA PHR-803T O-like Green (532nm) 150mW module in UF WF-501B host 808nm 1W Homemade IR portable laser 3 motor spirograph (Homemade) |
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| | #36 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 18
Rep Power: 0 ![]() |
o-like sells you a module that's obviously a reject and it's suppose to be a good place to buy? hmmm. they sold me a 100mw module which is definitely underpowered, (compared to a certified 100mw and a 50mw). the module rip off by the likes of o-like and similar continues until people are willing to pay a bit more for guaranteed power and quality. how can these rejects ever have passed QC???
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| | #37 | ||||
| Class 3R Laser Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: curr. Vienna, AT
Posts: 1,016
Rep Power: 34 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Quote:
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