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- Oct 9, 2010
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Thanks goes out to:
AixiZ Lens est. 1.8W
405-G-1 Lens est. 2W
I'll be finishing this with a full review, but for now here is a preview (typical burning video) using the AixiZ 445 lens
YouTube - 445nm Maglite 4D host 3x26650 lithium ion 1.72A est. 1.8W AixiZ 445 lens
Another: 10ft beam burning light colored wood (Actually it was more like 8 ft, woops) AixiZ 445 lens
YouTube - 445nm Maglite 4D est. 1.8W distance burning test
Another: Close up light colored wood burning AixiZ 445 lens
YouTube - 445nm Maglite 4D est. 1.8W burning close
Another: ((15FT!!)) burning hole through cd case AixiZ 445 lens
YouTube - 445nm est. 1.8W Maglite 15ft burn!!!
Another: ((405-G-1 2W)) Even faster burning times
MOV01307.mp4 video by LiquidLife949 - Photobucket
Burn through at 45ft in about 30 - 35 seconds (The large, line shaped melted depression) AixiZ 445 lens
REVIEW
I won't be taking any pictures for this review as Jayrob already did that! His pictures are actual pictures of what he sent me.
I've always liked the looks of Maglites, shiny and well built. I chose this host for my first complete laser project because it has ample space for batteries behind the switch and plenty of space for a heatsink and the P3 driver in front of the switch. The switch is insdustrial strength and can be re-used and is ON-OFF-(ON).
I thought about the design and thought it would be perfect to mirror DTRs Franken electrical design.
So I emailed Jayrob back and forth and ended up shipping the 4D maglite over to him.
Jayrobs skills and reputation preceed him, so I had no worries. I went ahead and bought a 3D maglite while waiting for Jayrob, and decided to take apart the swtich assembly, and mentioned to Jayrob that the front of the assembly (the part that holds the LED or bulb) can be sawed off allowing much more room, and that's where it all began. After Jay saw this, he went into overdrive and got me the kit back within a couple weeks I think, very very fast for a custom build, so he must like the maglites too :beer:
I also mentioned to him in one of our many conversations that he could build a custom sleeve to hold the batteries, but I can't take credit for that, it was all just un-realized ideas on my part, except for the switch assembly.
Jayrob was always there to answer my questions, we talked a lot. I actually held back, as I didn't want to bother him, but this is what he does and he loves doing it, so he was always going the extra mile.
His kit came to me with the leads attached to the - + terminals as shown above, perfect as I didn't feel like doing it myself, hehe.
I bought and shipped the batteries that he recommended for this build so that he could create the custom fiberglass sleave and spacer, and otherwise complete the build.
As you can see from the pictures he put some solder blobs on the + ends of the batteries as they are flat.
I'm the type of person who wants the best, and doesn't settle for anything less. After reading up on the forums, all things pointed to Jay.
I read the manual for the P3, and the heatsink that it comes with is good for up to 400mA and 5.5V if I remember correctly. Well I'm pushing 1750 mA so it's not gonna be good enough, obviously. So to cool that baby down, and the diode as well, Jay created the heatsink of heatsinks.
After 1 minute of constant beaming, the heatsink gets warm, but not hot.
Perfect quality. The hole in the front of the heatsink is for a small 1.5mm allen screw that when tightened holds the AixiZ module in place. (I have problems messing around with stuff, I just can't stop. I ended up using Arctic Silver around the module to improve heat transfer, overkill really. If you do this make sure you only use a littlebit so it doesn't leak onto the diode or anything else for that matter.)
Also you can see on the second picture down a threaded hole for the P3 heatsink. (The threads are smooth as hell, well done!)
As this is my first project, I wanted to make sure I didn't screw it up, so I opted for Jay's FlexModP3 'Hot' option. Jay did all the soldering for me (except for soldering leads together for the input and the output), as shown below.
The diode is being supplied with 4.5V (for 1.75A), as I tested using a multimeter. He shipped it over to me with current set at 1.62A. Well I'm much like DTR, with less time and money probably. :crackup:
So I had to mess with it, and ended up cranking it up to 1.75A based on DTRs diode test results, and what his Franken is set at.
I purchased the diode from daguin, with the diode pressed into an AixiZ module and leads attached. Shipped quickly, and he even soldered the - + leads together to prevent accidental electrical damage!
Jayrob even sent me printed instructions to make sure I had what I needed to complete the kit without destroying the driver/diode.
Look at this quote from Jay's FS: post, he really goes out of his way to make sure you get the most out of your kits.
There's nothing I don't like about Jay's quality of service. Thanks Jay for helping me every step of the way, and sending me the prototype of the beast. YEY, I got the first one every made! :worthy:
P3 Information from Jayrob
- Jayrob, for his outstanding design and metal work (did most of the work on the driver also)
- DTR for his P3 build on his 2W FrankenLaser
- daguin for his soldering and diode pressing skills (and prompt shipping)
AixiZ Lens est. 1.8W
405-G-1 Lens est. 2W
I'll be finishing this with a full review, but for now here is a preview (typical burning video) using the AixiZ 445 lens
YouTube - 445nm Maglite 4D host 3x26650 lithium ion 1.72A est. 1.8W AixiZ 445 lens
Another: 10ft beam burning light colored wood (Actually it was more like 8 ft, woops) AixiZ 445 lens
YouTube - 445nm Maglite 4D est. 1.8W distance burning test
Another: Close up light colored wood burning AixiZ 445 lens
YouTube - 445nm Maglite 4D est. 1.8W burning close
Another: ((15FT!!)) burning hole through cd case AixiZ 445 lens
YouTube - 445nm est. 1.8W Maglite 15ft burn!!!
Another: ((405-G-1 2W)) Even faster burning times
MOV01307.mp4 video by LiquidLife949 - Photobucket
Burn through at 45ft in about 30 - 35 seconds (The large, line shaped melted depression) AixiZ 445 lens
REVIEW
I won't be taking any pictures for this review as Jayrob already did that! His pictures are actual pictures of what he sent me.
I've always liked the looks of Maglites, shiny and well built. I chose this host for my first complete laser project because it has ample space for batteries behind the switch and plenty of space for a heatsink and the P3 driver in front of the switch. The switch is insdustrial strength and can be re-used and is ON-OFF-(ON).
I thought about the design and thought it would be perfect to mirror DTRs Franken electrical design.
So I emailed Jayrob back and forth and ended up shipping the 4D maglite over to him.
Jayrobs skills and reputation preceed him, so I had no worries. I went ahead and bought a 3D maglite while waiting for Jayrob, and decided to take apart the swtich assembly, and mentioned to Jayrob that the front of the assembly (the part that holds the LED or bulb) can be sawed off allowing much more room, and that's where it all began. After Jay saw this, he went into overdrive and got me the kit back within a couple weeks I think, very very fast for a custom build, so he must like the maglites too :beer:
I also mentioned to him in one of our many conversations that he could build a custom sleeve to hold the batteries, but I can't take credit for that, it was all just un-realized ideas on my part, except for the switch assembly.
Jayrob was always there to answer my questions, we talked a lot. I actually held back, as I didn't want to bother him, but this is what he does and he loves doing it, so he was always going the extra mile.
His kit came to me with the leads attached to the - + terminals as shown above, perfect as I didn't feel like doing it myself, hehe.
I bought and shipped the batteries that he recommended for this build so that he could create the custom fiberglass sleave and spacer, and otherwise complete the build.
As you can see from the pictures he put some solder blobs on the + ends of the batteries as they are flat.
I'm the type of person who wants the best, and doesn't settle for anything less. After reading up on the forums, all things pointed to Jay.
I read the manual for the P3, and the heatsink that it comes with is good for up to 400mA and 5.5V if I remember correctly. Well I'm pushing 1750 mA so it's not gonna be good enough, obviously. So to cool that baby down, and the diode as well, Jay created the heatsink of heatsinks.
After 1 minute of constant beaming, the heatsink gets warm, but not hot.
Perfect quality. The hole in the front of the heatsink is for a small 1.5mm allen screw that when tightened holds the AixiZ module in place. (I have problems messing around with stuff, I just can't stop. I ended up using Arctic Silver around the module to improve heat transfer, overkill really. If you do this make sure you only use a littlebit so it doesn't leak onto the diode or anything else for that matter.)
Also you can see on the second picture down a threaded hole for the P3 heatsink. (The threads are smooth as hell, well done!)
As this is my first project, I wanted to make sure I didn't screw it up, so I opted for Jay's FlexModP3 'Hot' option. Jay did all the soldering for me (except for soldering leads together for the input and the output), as shown below.
The diode is being supplied with 4.5V (for 1.75A), as I tested using a multimeter. He shipped it over to me with current set at 1.62A. Well I'm much like DTR, with less time and money probably. :crackup:
So I had to mess with it, and ended up cranking it up to 1.75A based on DTRs diode test results, and what his Franken is set at.
I purchased the diode from daguin, with the diode pressed into an AixiZ module and leads attached. Shipped quickly, and he even soldered the - + leads together to prevent accidental electrical damage!
Jayrob even sent me printed instructions to make sure I had what I needed to complete the kit without destroying the driver/diode.
Look at this quote from Jay's FS: post, he really goes out of his way to make sure you get the most out of your kits.
'Hot' option assembly tips: (FlexModP3)
Tools needed:
* 1.5mm Allen wrench for the module set screw
* 2.5mm Allen wrench for the driver heatsink set screw
With the 'Hot' option kit, the FlexModP3 driver current will be adjusted to the setting that you request, and be ready for the diode.
In order to install the diode, you will have to first remove the driver from the heatsink. (easy to do - there is a set screw that takes a 2.5mm Allen wrench) I will include the set screw, but the wrench is not included.
You will be using only the front 'business end' of the AixiZ module...
Then solder your diode/module on, and put the module, with driver back onto the heatsink. It can be done in 5 minutes...
All you need to do is make sure the driver is centered. As shown in the pictures above!
If you feel that the driver could possible make contact with the host, it may be wise to wrap the driver with some thin tape. Even scotch tape will work. There’s not a lot of room for thick tape with a Maglite C host. But the Maglite D host has plenty of room…
Then connect the driver leads, to the host leads using heat shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints.
And finally, just carefully set the assembly in place, and screw the retaining ring on. Making sure that the heatsink does not ‘twist’. (wires)
There's nothing I don't like about Jay's quality of service. Thanks Jay for helping me every step of the way, and sending me the prototype of the beast. YEY, I got the first one every made! :worthy:
P3 Information from Jayrob
If you want to set up your own FlexModP3 driver, DTR has a tutorial shown here:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/how-set-up-flexmod-p3-handheld-laser-56572.html#post798901
There was a little confusion on exactly what resistor to use for the V+ to Mod+ jumper, so I contacted drlava, and told him that I wanted to use a resistor that would allow either 2 X Li-Ion's, or 3 X Li-Ion's to be used. (just to avoid confusion, and set it up the same way for either build)
So that's why I use a 1.5 K Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor for this jumper...
And if you want to just print out my Word document showing the procedure, here's the file: (I borrowed a couple of pictures from DTR and put labels on them, plus a picture of my own as well)
It's about a 4MB file, so it may take a minute to download:
http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/FlexModP3 Setup.doc
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