lazeerer
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- Joined
- May 25, 2010
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Hey All,
Merry Christmas Everyone. Look what Santa brought me. I was a good boy this year.:evil:
:eg:Review on My New Bad Boy. 2050mW 405-G-1 lens 445nm Laser in a Cree SacredFire NF-009 Host.:eg:
Here is the Host:
DealExtreme: $24.74 SacredFire NF-009 Cree Q2-WC 160-Lumen LED Flashlight (2*18650/4*CR123A)
This build is My Favorite one so far.
I still am amazed How nice this host is. It allows for a very Large heatsink that Mohrenberg did a Great Job in making it the way it need to become So :thanks: Mohrenberg you know how much i really liked this set up. I decided to go with a LM350 Driver with 4x 3.0V Cr123A Cells or 3X 18650 cells. "Iam waiting for the extention tube for the 3rd 18650 to come in." As i wanted this to be a 3x 18650 build to have the capacity and be
enough in power to supply the LM350.
The way this host is designed with the heatsink works Perfect. The Fins on the host Draw
all the heat from the inside heatsink to them and keeps this build nice and cool.
After 5 minutes on, the host is
getting warm but not hot. The inner heatsink is keeping the Diode, LM350 and Resistor cool as they are all on the same heatsink. I wanted everything to fit on it so "Mo" Did an Epic Job with that. Its nice and beefy. When everything is put together the host
has a solid Feel to it.
Thanks "Mo".
OK So here is MY Build + Tutorial
Host, Heasink, Aixiz Module, 445nm Diode and a LM350 + .68ohm Chasis Resistor to keep the resistor heasink as well.
Different Angle.
Look How massive this Heatsink is.
First you want to Bend the Pins on the LM350 as so so it not closs to the heatsink and short out on you.
After you do that You want to solder 1 wire in the input pin, 1 wire on the output pin for the resistor and 2 Wires on the Adjustable pin 1 for the out and the other for the resistor. The 2 Black wires is for the resistor and the purple wires are for the input and + to diode.
As shown in this Picture.
Now what you want to do is take the "LM350 Driver" that you just assembled and Mix up some thermal Adhesive and attach it to the back of the heatsink as shown in the picture. BUT IT MUST NOT MAKE CONTACT WITH THE HEATSINK IT SELF, THE RESON FOR THIS IS THE HOST IS YOUR NEGITIVE FROM THE BATTERY AND THE BACK OF THE LM350 METAL TAB IS PART OF YOUR NEGATIVE OUTPUT SO THIS WOULD MAKE THEM SHORT. SO WHEN PUTTING THE THERMAL ADHESIVE DOWN MAKE SURE ITS A NICE THICK LAYER THAT THE LM350 WILL BE ON. This will not effect the thermal transfer. Mo was nice enough to put screws in for me to hold the LM350 and resistor in place. I removed the one on the LM350 so it does not make it short to the host. So with the thermal adhesive and the screw it was a really nice tight fit for best heat transfer. I recommend going with Arctic Silver adhesive or Arctic Alumina adhesive. Let is sit until it hardens.
Here is another angle of it. The Purple wire that i have running through the center is the + for the diode and the Purple wire that is coming off the side is the + to the + of the battery.
I then went to test load everything. 1803mA. Witch is perfect where i wanted it.
Now what you want to do is Press You diode in to its Module. I like to use what you see in the Picture. I got it in the plumbing section at HomeDepot for a few bucks. Place it into the vice and press fit the diode in.
This is what your diode should look like when pressed in.
In this build i decided to use the hole axiz module because it fit. So now what you want to do is run a Negative wire through the center where the Aixiz module will go as well as the positive wire for your diode. I then from the front side pushed in the back end of the Aixiz module in and ready for next step.
Here you can see 2 thing First is the back end of the module threads and second i solder the wires to the diode. Green is - Purple is +. Push the back end of the Aiziz module out so you can screw the module together. Tip: Do not spin the front part of the Aixiz module only spin the back side of the module as you dont want to twist the wires.
Now you would have something like this.
Now what you are going to want to do is de-solder the LED from the Pill of the host and clean off any thermal paste that was on there. I like to keep the LEDs for future projects. After you do this you want to pop off the Stock driver by sticking screw driver through one of the holes of were the wires for the LED was coming out of. Make sure to keep the screw driver running next to the wall of the inner pill so you do no damage to the driver.
Now run your + - of the diode and driver through the 2 holes from where the Stock LED wires were coming out of.
Now, Unfortunately i dint de-soldering the board that came with the Stock LED i keeped that on and used another old one i had laying around so Sorry. You want to make sure to de-solder ever thing off the board as shown in this picture. You can do 2 of 2 things, 1 Drill a hole straight through the center of the driver and solder it to the positive pad or find a tracer or take into account were the + wire was coming to the LED and just solder your positive input there. Run your negative Wire through any hole around the outer good ring. Best to put it next to one of the solder tabs on the opposite side as you will be solder that to the pill after.
Now you will have this. Press the stock driver back into the pill. Make sure when you press the stock driver back in you press it in where a soldering tab of the outer pill ring meets up with the negative wire you solder to the stock driver. Once you have done this solder the 2 tabs back in place. Also Solder the Spring back on the positive tab.
This is what it should look like when done. I am pointing to the tabs that you have to solder back together and at the tab iam pointing it is were the negative wire from the diode is running to.
Now you need to screw in the pill to the host again. when doing this spin the host will the pill stays in place as you dont want to twist the wires.
Push in the Heatsink head.
Once you push the heatsink Head in just screw in the top Ring and your done.:wave:
LPM Test: My Display on my LPM only goes up to 2 Watts so i used my DMM as the Display as it can read Higher then 2 Watts. Iam looking for a 5 Watt display but have no luck. But i know there out there.
2050mW with the 405-G-1 Lens.:eg:
EDIT:
Beam video of all my 445nm lasers
From left to Right. Arctic 758mW, DIY IN Cree SS Host 1167mW and finaly my latest 2050mW BadBoy in a Cree NF-009 host. Almost 4 Watts Combined. :evil:
So Finally Iam Extremely Happy with this build, It has an awesome run time with a Massive Heatsink and fins on the host to keep the laser diode and LM350 + resistor cool.. Battery life is not that great until i get my extension tube in within a few weeks. so iam getting about 1 hour off 4x 750mah lifepo4CR123A cells. So i will update you all when it comes in.
5 out of 5 Stars in my Book.
:thanks:For Looking.!!!:beer:
Merry Christmas Everyone. Look what Santa brought me. I was a good boy this year.:evil:
:eg:Review on My New Bad Boy. 2050mW 405-G-1 lens 445nm Laser in a Cree SacredFire NF-009 Host.:eg:
Here is the Host:
DealExtreme: $24.74 SacredFire NF-009 Cree Q2-WC 160-Lumen LED Flashlight (2*18650/4*CR123A)
This build is My Favorite one so far.
I still am amazed How nice this host is. It allows for a very Large heatsink that Mohrenberg did a Great Job in making it the way it need to become So :thanks: Mohrenberg you know how much i really liked this set up. I decided to go with a LM350 Driver with 4x 3.0V Cr123A Cells or 3X 18650 cells. "Iam waiting for the extention tube for the 3rd 18650 to come in." As i wanted this to be a 3x 18650 build to have the capacity and beenough in power to supply the LM350.
The way this host is designed with the heatsink works Perfect. The Fins on the host Draw
all the heat from the inside heatsink to them and keeps this build nice and cool.
After 5 minutes on, the host isgetting warm but not hot. The inner heatsink is keeping the Diode, LM350 and Resistor cool as they are all on the same heatsink. I wanted everything to fit on it so "Mo" Did an Epic Job with that. Its nice and beefy. When everything is put together the host
has a solid Feel to it.
Thanks "Mo".
OK So here is MY Build + Tutorial
Host, Heasink, Aixiz Module, 445nm Diode and a LM350 + .68ohm Chasis Resistor to keep the resistor heasink as well.
Different Angle.
Look How massive this Heatsink is.
First you want to Bend the Pins on the LM350 as so so it not closs to the heatsink and short out on you.
After you do that You want to solder 1 wire in the input pin, 1 wire on the output pin for the resistor and 2 Wires on the Adjustable pin 1 for the out and the other for the resistor. The 2 Black wires is for the resistor and the purple wires are for the input and + to diode.
As shown in this Picture.
Now what you want to do is take the "LM350 Driver" that you just assembled and Mix up some thermal Adhesive and attach it to the back of the heatsink as shown in the picture. BUT IT MUST NOT MAKE CONTACT WITH THE HEATSINK IT SELF, THE RESON FOR THIS IS THE HOST IS YOUR NEGITIVE FROM THE BATTERY AND THE BACK OF THE LM350 METAL TAB IS PART OF YOUR NEGATIVE OUTPUT SO THIS WOULD MAKE THEM SHORT. SO WHEN PUTTING THE THERMAL ADHESIVE DOWN MAKE SURE ITS A NICE THICK LAYER THAT THE LM350 WILL BE ON. This will not effect the thermal transfer. Mo was nice enough to put screws in for me to hold the LM350 and resistor in place. I removed the one on the LM350 so it does not make it short to the host. So with the thermal adhesive and the screw it was a really nice tight fit for best heat transfer. I recommend going with Arctic Silver adhesive or Arctic Alumina adhesive. Let is sit until it hardens.
Here is another angle of it. The Purple wire that i have running through the center is the + for the diode and the Purple wire that is coming off the side is the + to the + of the battery.
I then went to test load everything. 1803mA. Witch is perfect where i wanted it.
Now what you want to do is Press You diode in to its Module. I like to use what you see in the Picture. I got it in the plumbing section at HomeDepot for a few bucks. Place it into the vice and press fit the diode in.
This is what your diode should look like when pressed in.
In this build i decided to use the hole axiz module because it fit. So now what you want to do is run a Negative wire through the center where the Aixiz module will go as well as the positive wire for your diode. I then from the front side pushed in the back end of the Aixiz module in and ready for next step.
Here you can see 2 thing First is the back end of the module threads and second i solder the wires to the diode. Green is - Purple is +. Push the back end of the Aiziz module out so you can screw the module together. Tip: Do not spin the front part of the Aixiz module only spin the back side of the module as you dont want to twist the wires.
Now you would have something like this.
Now what you are going to want to do is de-solder the LED from the Pill of the host and clean off any thermal paste that was on there. I like to keep the LEDs for future projects. After you do this you want to pop off the Stock driver by sticking screw driver through one of the holes of were the wires for the LED was coming out of. Make sure to keep the screw driver running next to the wall of the inner pill so you do no damage to the driver.
Now run your + - of the diode and driver through the 2 holes from where the Stock LED wires were coming out of.
Now, Unfortunately i dint de-soldering the board that came with the Stock LED i keeped that on and used another old one i had laying around so Sorry. You want to make sure to de-solder ever thing off the board as shown in this picture. You can do 2 of 2 things, 1 Drill a hole straight through the center of the driver and solder it to the positive pad or find a tracer or take into account were the + wire was coming to the LED and just solder your positive input there. Run your negative Wire through any hole around the outer good ring. Best to put it next to one of the solder tabs on the opposite side as you will be solder that to the pill after.
Now you will have this. Press the stock driver back into the pill. Make sure when you press the stock driver back in you press it in where a soldering tab of the outer pill ring meets up with the negative wire you solder to the stock driver. Once you have done this solder the 2 tabs back in place. Also Solder the Spring back on the positive tab.
This is what it should look like when done. I am pointing to the tabs that you have to solder back together and at the tab iam pointing it is were the negative wire from the diode is running to.
Now you need to screw in the pill to the host again. when doing this spin the host will the pill stays in place as you dont want to twist the wires.
Push in the Heatsink head.
Once you push the heatsink Head in just screw in the top Ring and your done.:wave:
LPM Test: My Display on my LPM only goes up to 2 Watts so i used my DMM as the Display as it can read Higher then 2 Watts. Iam looking for a 5 Watt display but have no luck. But i know there out there.
2050mW with the 405-G-1 Lens.:eg:
EDIT:
Beam video of all my 445nm lasers
From left to Right. Arctic 758mW, DIY IN Cree SS Host 1167mW and finaly my latest 2050mW BadBoy in a Cree NF-009 host. Almost 4 Watts Combined. :evil:
So Finally Iam Extremely Happy with this build, It has an awesome run time with a Massive Heatsink and fins on the host to keep the laser diode and LM350 + resistor cool.
. Battery life is not that great until i get my extension tube in within a few weeks. so iam getting about 1 hour off 4x 750mah lifepo4CR123A cells. So i will update you all when it comes in.5 out of 5 Stars in my Book.
:thanks:For Looking.!!!:beer:
Last edited:
