What on earth could be wrong?

Okay, so I'm starting to get frustrated here.

I have a diode from DTR
I have a host from Ray J neal that is the exact same on the insides as a guidesman/hotlights

I have a jib drive 1.3A, and a flexdrive v5

I have a larrydfw 18650, I modified the insides to where it fits perfect

The diode i always get placed in an aixiz module, with leads soldered on so I don't kill it.

Jibdrives are fixed at 1.3A, and the flexdrive I got from Flaminpyro.

There is only a positive contact point in the pill, and no easy negative connection. SO.

I tried the jib drive out, driver positive to positive contact in the pill. Driver negative to case pin on the diode.

LD+ to driver LD+, negative to negative.

Put it all together, all the wires good nothing wrong.

And I get nothing, absolutely nothing. NO light, no led, no nothing.

I did this EXACT same thing/setup with the flexdrive v5 which jeff set to 925mA, and I test loaded it on an 18650 before hand and it was 925mA.

Put everything together, and NOTHING, absolutely nothing. If something happened it would at least led right? OR is it possible for a diode to produce nothing at all?

I have done this exact same build on a guidesman, which is the same exact inside as this "mini guidesman" host, with a microboost set to max, and it worked perfectly, putting out 1.4W

What is going on here? I've done this before exactly the same, but now it will not work no matter what I do?

First of all, a jib driver can't power a 445nm off 4.2V, not enough voltage.
That being said, the diode should give off at least a faint blue glow....

Where are you getting negative for driver from again?
Oh sorry, you're getting it from the diode's case pin...

Hmmm time to whip out the DMM and probe for voltage at several points, I guess would be what I'd do.
To rule out a dead diode, you could put the DMM in diode test mode, and touch the probes to the diodes anode and cathode....

Did You test the diode yourself before you put it in?

errrr, nope, I don't really have the ability to test a diode.
DTR tests them all before he ships them though.. So, unless it got screwed during the shipping from him to me, I don't see how it would have gone bad, and I'm pretty sure if it dies it would have led'd, I don't think they just stop emitting all together

I would suggest putting a second battery in series and see if it powers up. If you have a test load with a red and blue setting it might give you a reading if you have it set to red using a single Li-Ion. Also when using the case pin make sure the heatsink is in electrical contact with the host body. If you don't have a bench supply I would first suggest undoing the positive from the pill and connect two batteries in series between the positive wire and the heatsink see if that works.:beer:

Okay, so put the diode in the heatsink, have the driver connected to the LD, hook the positive wire to two batteries, and what do i connect to the heatsink? the negative wire?

jakeGT said:

Okay, so put the diode in the heatsink, have the driver connected to the LD, hook the positive wire to two batteries, and what do i connect to the heatsink? the negative wire?

Click to expand...

Here I just threw some stuff together to give an Idea what I am talking about. Just touch the negative directly to the heatsink.:beer:

This would be with the jib driver if you are using a Flexdrive just use one battery.

it worked! so what do you think was wrong with my setup jordan?

Is the anodization stopping the flow?

no it is like this
diode + to driver LD+
diode- to driver LD-
driver+ to positive battery contact
driver- to diode case pin

The 445nm diode is case neutral.
The MicroBoost can be connected using the case pin as the negative driver input.
The MicroFlex can be connected to the diode by bridging the negative pin to the case pin (thus making the diode case negative), then connecting both pins to the negative output of the driver.

Are you setting up the driver correctly?

Edit:
What it should be is:

Diode + to driver + output
Diode - to driver - output
Diode case to driver - output

Driver - input not attached
Driver + input to battery +

Before you wire it back in the host I would throw a battery in and test the positive contact point and the place where the heatsink sits on the host with your DMM and make sure power is flowing through the host.

Would the host have to be sanded to bare metal to make negative contact with the heatsink? Cause If so, it's not. I'm pretty sure it's anodized


Also, sorry about not checking the thread before pm'ing you back like 5 times jordan haha

The nice part about running the case pin back to the driver negative input is it that you can do it with a microboost, flex and just about any other driver I can think of. Helps keep it straight. The pins being bridged won't work with some drivers.

RA_pierce said:

The 445nm diode is case neutral.
The MicroBoost can be connected using the case pin as the negative driver input.
The MicroFlex can be connected to the diode by bridging the negative pin to the case pin (thus making the diode case negative), then connecting both pins to the negative output of the driver.

Are you setting up the driver correctly?

Edit:
What it should be is:

Diode + to driver + output
Diode - to driver - output
Diode case to driver - output

Driver - input not attached
Driver + input to battery +

Click to expand...

Wait, so both the diode- and diode case have to be attached to the driver - out?
Not, diode negative to driver negative out, and diode case to driver - input?

DTR said:

It will work this way and it will also work with the case pin run back to the driver negative input without soldering the pins on the diode together.:beer:

To illustrate.

Diode + to driver + output
Diode - to driver - output


Driver input - Case pin on diode
Driver input + input to battery +

Click to expand...

Okay that's what I thought and what I had, using a microflex v5.



Also, should i remove the anodizing on the lip of the host that the heatsink sets on? It's anodized or painted black, and if it needs to be bare metal on metal for my setup to work, I have some sanding to do!